New Dart Lil M block billet splayed caps
Callis forged crank
Manley 6" steel H beam rods
JE forged lightweight slugs 12.5:1 with 64cc heads
Stephs oil pan clearanced for stroker motor and wider at blocks pan rails due to all 4 main caps being 4 bolt splayed...am installing tubular K member to clear this pan
ATI damper and SFI flywheel

Had to add this will be a 427 for now with alot of room to grow in the future since we can stroke the snot out of it and bore upto .100 like the BBC. 454 sbc might be the next endevour if/when this combo give up the ghost.

Heads should be done soon, shop called the other day to congratulate me on bending every valve in both heads LOL!! AFR said I could get more performance by upgrading to titanium valves and retainers, but after getting quote I bout fell outta my chair so sticking with severe duty under cut valves from Manley.

Get my new cam ordered from Bullet, lifters, pushrods, timing chain and I'm golden...still debating weather or not to take tranny in. Talked to the builder this morning who built it originally, and we're both kinda curious as to how long it will hold up, already have have 2000+ passes and guesstimating at least 6-8K total street miles in the past fw years. When i pulled it everything was still working great with no signs of problems, and my builder wants to kind of use this as a testimonial to how well his stuff holds up...but at the same time I dont want to get into a race event and then have something fail due to wear and tear and lose a round....still up in the air on that.

Hoping for around 600hp when it's all said and done, going to really try and push to keep it pump gas, but if I fall way short on numbers then 110 octane it will be since it's not a daily driver and that fuel is'nt all that much more anyways.

Just glad to see forward movement again and not looking foward to having traction issues next year with the small tires. LOL

 

sounds like a well built motor, i hope to hear how it's going soon enough. and I have to ask this because I know you'll chuckle....how about just machining it and then put it together in your garage to save $200 ??? you'll make that 454 goal quicker that way.

 

Refer back to many of my posts regarding Stephens saga or any other post where guys try to build their stuff for the first time....not worth the trouble since this is not what I do-and I'll have 5-6'x the money involved once I buy all the tools to build this thing correctly...I'm not a machinist. I'll pay the $300 assembly fee so the shop warranties it if something breaks due to poor assembly-parts failure your just out no matter what so that does'nt count, just like smart people dont try to build their own home since they dont know all the in's and out's and know in the big picture that inital $10-15,000 they think they're saving costs them $10-20,000 on top of the money they "thought" they were saving due to screw up's later redoing stuff....just like drvetrain parts

I hate wrenching on my car and all I have to do is go to any race where I know the guys assemble their own stuff, see them frantically popping hoods to figure out WTF happened, or packing up to go swap motors...all the while I sit in the shade focusing on winning the event...I'm too busy with running a business and trying to win events to have to worry about engine/drivetrain failure due to something I had no idea about or had no real world past expereinces to check this or that...always costs more to do it later.

I'm off the high horse now since my opinion is known LOL!!!

 

Which tubular k-member are you putting in?I was lookin at PA racing but cant get any info from people who have one.

 

I was looking at PA, then thought about AJE, but after looking over BMR's site I will probably go with them and just get the whole package for a arms, rack and pinion, k member, etc...so it's all done.

Still contemplating if I should set this up for power brakes again, or just say the heck with it and convert to manual then get a lil nuts on the cam.

 

I think Im gonna get the PA Racing one its only $339 because I dont need motor mounts ( have motor plate ) and I already have a rack they said they would exchange for one that fits for free I thought that was pretty good since Ive never bought from them before.Do a lot of research on your cam I built a 421 about 12 years ago had 220 AFR heads and got 2 different cams as per AFR and Comp Cams ( both way too big for power brakes) never made the HP it should have. One thing Ive learned about 400+" small blocks they need big cams. My combo wasnt right heads too small ,cams were wrong etc .It only made 561HP on the dyno AFR said 625 with no problem but it never happened.Be carefull with your combo lots of $$$$ to be investing.

 

i have an AJE kmember under mine and am happy with it, although i'm sure they're all the same kinda deal.

 

I'm seriously considering once I get my 210's back selling them since they'll be brand new again and upgrading to at least the 227's even though they require offset lifters and shaft rockers for stret use they will make alot more power with the added cubes. I got one hell of a deal on the stuff I listed and with what I have now, the 2 rods I have to get, and the stuff I just paid for the entire motor could be done for $3K-that's including the cost of the short block I just bought...yeah LOL!!

My only problem is before this killer deal came about I was going to take a step back and build a 400-450hp motor to eliminate any traction issues and really focus on winning bigger events, but now this came up so it's changing everything. I imagine I'll get everything back running and bugs worked out and then possbily next winter look into back halfing it to make it alot more consistant for racing....but I'm deciding now if i want to continue with the all out quest for power, or be happy with the low budget thus far and take care of other aspects...we'll find out in a few weeks I guess LOL!!

 

What are you doing with your old cam Josh? Want to sell it?

 

I'm going to call Bullet and see what they're recommending before I sell it, it could be very close to what I might need....and it might not so we'll see. I personally dont want the cam that comes with the motor since it require me to run a bronze gear on the dizzy, I like the pressed on iron cam gear so I can run the standard dizzy gear and that's one less maintenance item to check..seen a few engines wiped out completely from the bronze gear getting ate up and taking everything out by clogging oik passages.

The current cam that comes with it is a 260/274 duration, I did'nt really want the power band much higher than where I was at since I do not want to wing the motor, but I think that's where she'll need to be otherwise I'll just blow the tires off with a cam any smaller since it'd be making tow truck torque.