Want the car to start off in the high 11s 1/4
Chassis and cage 1st.
Dont want a full cage, but I have to make it legal as is a vert.
Any sugestions? rear? suspension?

 

sure 9" from whatever manufacturer
8 point cage, unless NHRA requires 10 point for a vert?
LCAs from aftermarket, same with torque arm and panhard bar
TH350 with big stall or TH400
355-406 motor, whatever 200c heads you want, nice sized cam, and if not, just spray the motor to make your goals....figure 6k easy to reach these goals, if not more if you want reliability

 

Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, and torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.

A 9 inch or a 12 bolt will work for a rear end.

Do you have an auto or manual?

 

The car is automatic. As far as safty, The car will run in the 1/8 so speeds wont be very high

 

When Changing Diff's, FORSURE pull the gastank and fuel lines, Sump the stock tank with a CE Sump kit with 1/2 fittings. Then u will FORSURE have the fuel supply u need, Trust me this is worth everything in a soild street strip car. I know with my car I fought for years with pickups and stock lines before I finally pulled it all out and sumped it. I know several others had simualr experiences.

 

I look forward to the day I throw away the stock electric pump in the tank.

What width rear am I wanting?

 

Moser makes both 12-bolt and 9" in stock width bolt-in. I used a 69' Chevelle rear in my 83' Camaro. It was 1" narrower than a stock Camaro rearend. With either you can run a 9 x 30 slick or maybe bigger, but that's what I use. It cost $550 to put the Chevelle housing in my Camaro including a used housing. The Moser 12-bolt is $890 for the empty housing with brackets. The 9" is cheaper but not sure how much. Shop for a 9" I think you can get a bolt in cheap.

 

You can't use just any diff because the third gen uses a torque arm suspension. Unless you do some sort of conversion to eliminate the torque arm, you'll need to buy one of the aftermarket bolt in diffs or just live with the 10 bolt with some basic strength upgrades. A complete bolt in 12 bolt or 9" will put you back about $2500. You can pick up a bolt in 9" housing with axles for about $1000. Just add your own center section with gears and carrier.

I'm using a 9" housing from a 1970 F100 and use ladder bars for suspension. The downside is that the pinion isn't centered. Both axles are the same length. Normally with a 9", the passenger side axle is longer when the pinion is centered in the car. Some strange 31 spline axles and a spool fill the housing. Aftermarket 31 splines axles are more than enough even for my car. 33 or 35 spline axles are just overkill and add more weight.

For a drag strip only car I can only suggest to strip everything from the car that's not needed for track safety or speed. The list is endless as to what you can do. Keeping it pretty doesn't make it faster. Keeping a full interior doesn't make it any faster. I've been modifying and changing things on my car for 7 years now and I still have more modifications I want to do. Some day I may say it's complete but that's not going to be for a while. I am going as fast as I finally wanted though so it's not a speed issue now.

 

You don't need to eliminate the torque arm in this app. Shop for a aftermarket bolt-in 9" and save money over a 12 bolt. Look at class legal cars that run high 10s with torque arms or even quicker than that. Straight forward stuff, weight transfer and instant center, along with a small tire. Don't over complicate a 11 sec car.

 

I'm not saying you have to eliminate the torque arm. Just that if you plan on using a junkyard diff, you need to since there's no way to attach it onto anything other than a third gen or a third gen bolt in diff.

 

this is what I went with

BTW I have a 9" housing that is the right size if you want to build your own., needs one axle replaced.

Here`s what I`v done and I`m not in the 11`s yet
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/orga...camaro-up.html

 

Nice.Who made it and how much for the housing? What's next? What about the front suspension?

 

all my suspension mods are listed in that topic link I posted. So far 12.05et is the best with my set-up

The housing pictured is a Moser I also got their axles with the housing. I paid 1050.00 for it and had em turn down the axle flanges to fit my 10 bolt posi rotors.

I was gonna build my own but ran out of time as I sponsored a race and wanted to race in it so I just ordered it.

I have a 9" housing and the 10 bolt posi I took out if you want to build your own. All you have to do is cut the brackets off the posi and weld em on the 9" and build the bracket for the TA. I`d take 250.00 for both of em

 

I run Stock legal NHRA/IHRA cars, gotta keep them all GM. Cutting brackets off a destoyed stock rearend and welding them onto a 12-bolt is how I did my last one. Been working great since 2000.

 

Helpfull thread Jet.

 

if you need to know anything just ask. I`m not sure if my gearing is listed in that thread or not but I went with a 411 in the 9". I have a 514 I`m gonna try here real soon.