Like I said in my other post, along with drag racing all over during the summer (every weekend) and my 5-6K average street miles, I've been running the same Proform electric water pump for 4 years. NEVER a cooling problem, and never a durablity issue either. Couple the electric water pump, electric fans, and manual steering box, your all but garunteed .4-.5 gain in et with your mild combination. The smaller output motors really take well to getting parasitic hp draw off the engine and will show you at the ticket booth. But once you get into higher output motors that are very effeicent, the gains from these types of mods are less nocitable, if at all.

Do those 3 things only and you'll gain a bunch. my first year those were literally the ONLY 3 things I changed and picked up a solid and consistant .5 no doubt the cheapest and easiest hp you will ever find for that much gain.

 

OK i didn't know how reliable electric water pumps where since no cars that i know of came with them from the factory.

since eventually i want to go autocrossing i don't know if a manual steering box is a good idea

 

Not to sure how many people cope with the manual steering box...I mean all I am saying is its very nice to have power steering....I think its one of the best things to come out for cars besides power related things...I mean who doesnt like ease of turning or in my case or your case above.....drifting/autocrossing...I mean to whip that wheel from one rotation to the other is awesome.

 

If your going auto crossing, you definately want/have to stick with a pwr box since you'll be sawing the wheel for extended periods. Save your coin and step upto a quick ratio box, and look into some circle track catalogs and buy one of theri pwr steering pump set-up's. They're not cheap, but they are a 1/3 the size/weight and draw very little hp off the engine. It would be one of the better $500 you'll spend since your gaining accessablity, losing weight, and picking up hp compared to a stock unit.

Electric water pumps are fine for the street. The only set-up I've seen consistantly have troubles is the moroso/mr gasket set-ups that utilize a factory water pump and mount a windsheild wiper motor that uses a cog belt to turn the factory pump. I have 4 buddies that went that route "cuz they're cheaper than a regular electric water pump" and guess which 4 out of the 10-12 guys we cruise with we have to pull over and let cool down...

 

Which setups with the steering box do you know of? Like which kinds of quick ratio boxes? (I would like to know because I want a little quicker turning...maybe if ours is 12:1 I want something like 10:1, unless the smaller the number the slower it responds...IDK I have seen up to 14:1 ratio boxes...but dont remember where?)

I was just going to do the Summit Racing GM Type II Steering Pump Kit. Comes with all new hardware (but everything is sold separately) down to lines, remote resevoir, pump, pulley.....and after all that it is also lighter and comes in a nice chrome finish (I H8 CHROME) but its the only thing I want to be officially chrome under my hood. I will find the full kit l8er today. I dont have my summit catalog with me.....it comes to like $300+ to upgrade it to the GM Typer II kit.

 

go to performance bodies and order a catalog, they have about everything you could need to hop up a roundy roundy car, and like most sports alot of the parts will cross over. They have the quick couplers that cut your steering ratio in half, just a matter of cutting your steering shaft, installing new couplers and putting the quick steer body in the middle.


Actually just looking at the catalog they have a complete PS kit with the pump, hoses/an fittings for $320.

 

Thanks for the help...I ordered a catalog...and am talking with them about the kit(s). Thanks Much.

 

i will look in to the power steering pump more after i get my tires

 

Thanks....appreciate that.

 

[QUOTE=IHI;3185763When I was only running low 13's/high 12's a single set would last an entire season no problem.[/QUOTE]

i just love how you say "when i was only running low 13's/high 12's" like that was stock numbers or something.. i wish i could say that.. i'm still in the 12's.. mid 12's.. haha

 

LOL, I guess when you point that out it does sound bad just a time progression thing, most guys are all the same, they start working on their cars, and when they break 13's they're estantic, then they put more money into trying for low 13's, then they progress to 12's, so on and so forth...I wish I would've been smarter and know then what I know now, heck, all the money I wasted throug the years progressing...I coulda been running the outlaw series by now

I'm kinda going backwards now though, got my new shortblock, but the heads I want wont be on the market until this time next year, so just throwing my brother in laws back up motor in my car for the summer, that only ran 11.80's in his regal which is 300lbs lighter than my car so I'll be stuck in the low 12's...oh well, fast enough to stay in pro class on the slow end of the et cut off, but fast enough if I want easy money I can step down to sportsman class and chase everybody

 

yea, same thing here...
its not that im trying to be cocky about it, but when you goto the track often, you perception of what a fast time is, changes.
13 seconds starts getting boring to talk about when you're trying for 10s... and my low 11s working on 10s seems boring to the pro-mod guys...... its all a progression thing..

 

if you have a locking converter you can go as high as like 4000 stall and it will drive like stock once it locks up. i got 2800 on my stock L98 and its perfect. once i go 32mph, the converter will lock up in overdrive and i just drive away like stock. cant telll its there till you smash the gas.

and i have 3.42 gears now too and cruisng at 70mph aint bad at all. around 2200 rpms if i recall right. thats mild. 80 is 2500rpms. with the taller ET streets on, it is even lower rpm wise.
nothing wrong with a higher stall

with that said i think a 3400 will benefit you alot over the 2300 you have. i guess you'll have to worry about the 10 bolt but i have a few passes on my ls1 rear 10bolt down to the low 1.7's 60 foots and its fine so far. Many other guys i know down in that area and are fine.

and there aint nothing wrong with drag radials... you should be pulling good times with those. my buddies car did 1.7-1.8x 60's on bald Nitto 555R's and they are the bottom of the line drag radial. good set of mickey thompson et radials will be great to have. i prefer a et street DOT slick but drag radials will work with your combo. improve your 60 foots and you'll be mid 13's easy

 

What can I do to upgrade my 10 bolt??? I am buying 3.73 gears and an Eaton posi unit....what else could I get to make it more reliable??? Also getting a new upgraded pumpkin and royal purple gear oil...what about axles?

 

waste of money.
save up, buy a 12bolt, dana60, or 9".

 

Well since I only buy NEW...the Ford 9" in $2600....from hawks with extras...the 12 bolt IDK and Dana rear ends are wicked....but need one that will fit directly or the best to the 10 bolt...I dont want to mod to much to put in a rear end. Please and thank you.

 

A girdle WILL help a 10 bolt. One of the big problems with the 10 bolts is flexing, and the pinion walking up the gear face. You can help this alot by getting a girdle with the support studs. If you ask me that would be 150 dollars WELL spent.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/beefinguprear what to do to make you ten bolt stronger

ps where can i find an alternator bracket for the passenger side that will work with the electric water pump that is under $100

 

Thanks....any I should look into? Brand name wise?
----------
OH YEAH. This is nice.

 

A NOS kit is your best bang for the buck

 

i need this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...66225B&FROM=MG

and this for the alt http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

and this to turn on the fan http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D75029&FROM=MG

 

those are what i need right? i don't want to order the wrong stuff.

also is there a cheep way to hook up the power steering without the 3ed bolt that hooks up to the water pump

 

the water pump and the other stuff where seculed be here yesterday but the ups guy f*** me over

i was waiting at my desk all day long ( 9 am to 6 pm) perodically up dating the track. 6 pm comes and it is time for me to go home i up date the ups track and it said failure to deliver no one to sign. i call ups tell them i was there all day long. they said they can send him back but it would be at least 2 hours. i seculed it for Monday between 2 and 6. then i drive home and find my ups driver he stops in front of a house with his flashers on for 30 seconds drives couple blocks dose it again he dose it to 5 houses stooping in the middle of the road so know one can get by for 30 sec then going again. i realise what the guy is doing he wants to get home early on a Friday night and doesnt want to go out in the cold.

 

I don't know, maybe if you clean your grill you'll get more horsepower outta the engine.

 

I would spend some money and put it on a chassis dyno and have it tuned to maximise what you have. 13.9 1/4 is a joke. Anything else is a waste of money.

 

Wow, if a thread comes back from the dead after 2 years does that make it a zombie? LOL

Dan

 

I'm not lolling, I wanna know where da gold's at.

DAN

 

this carb tuning issue has been brought up more than once in your post and i can't help myself but to ask about it.

1. what is the car doing that makes the carb out of tune
2. if the carb is out of tune you are not likely making full power ( but from most of your post you already no this)
3. before you try anything else to lower your E.T., i personally would get the carb in tune so that doesn't become a variable as to way other mods don't work how everyone tells you they will
4. none of this is to be a now it all but in my experiance you should try and solve current problems and then make it go faster but again this is only an opinion

 

I started this thread two years ago and the demon is long gone. I replaced it with a proform. The proform runs much better but I think i still have a bit more in the tune if I get a wide band and play with the air bleeds.

 

good choice of carb and i just happen to look at the date on some of these post and would say if you already haven't done some work to the suspension i would may be do some to maximize your power to the ground

good luck hope it lays down a good number for you