well did a search on how to mount slick to a rim but im still a little hazy on the details. Basically this is what i want to do, i wanna take these cheapo rims http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and mount these slicks http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

From what i understand you first drill out 8 equally distanced holes then mount the slick and insert the screws....Does this sound right , Also im planning on running a tube. Will the tube be punchsured by the screws in the rim??? and can i even use these wheels to begin with ?? Any input would be great . Thanks

those all steel rims are going to weigh a lot. Also you do realize that link for slicks takes me to an import slick size of 22" tall ? Stock tire height is 26". I would look for some stock 15x7 aluminum rims off a camaro that were 5 spokes and mount some 26x10.50 ET street slicks onto them if you're looking for cheap. At least the stock aluminum rims don't weigh a ton like those steel rims. Also you drill out 8 holes on either side and screw in the screws first without a tire mounted. Then mount the tire, screw the tires, while putting a little bit of clear silicone around each screw to help with air leaks, then have them bubble balanced. Skip the tube on such small slicks.

thats a butt load of info right there ... thanks

Proper rim screws don't go all the way through the bead. You don't need that many rim screws on a low HP car.

Drill the holes in the rim. Debur the backside of the holes. Mount and balance the tire. Install rim screws. The low HP cars car easily get away with 4 screws on both sides of the rim.

The main purpose of rim screws is to keep the slick from turning on the rim. Although a spun tire can cause an imbalance, the biggest problem is if you use a tube. If you have a tube in the tire and the tire spins, it will rip the valve stem off the tube.

When running tubeless, you need to use metal valve stems if you run faster than 11.99 in the 1/4. Rubber valve stems will fail a tech inspection if you run this fast. Running tubeless, you don't need rim screws unless you're starting to spin the tire on the rim. Mark the tire where the valvestem is and check to see where the mark is at the end of the day. If it's moved, install rim screws.

Tube tires can be run tubeless. The sidewalls are very soft and will leak air. Before mounting the tires, get some liquid dish soap and a rag and coat the entire inner surface with the liquid soap. When it drys, give it another coat. Then mount the tire. The chance of the tire leaking air will be greatly reduced.

Tubes are heavy. Although they eliminate the chance of the tire leaking down, they add a lot of unsprung weight. If you want to run tubes, buy racing tubes. They're made of natural rubber but also cost a lot more. When you go to put the tube in, you don't need to have the liquid soap inside the tire. Coat the inside of the tire and the tube with baby powder before installing the tube. This helps it slide around and it won't get stuck or pinch as it's being installed or inflated. Use lots.

I run tubeless.

thanks for the info stephen87iroc, pretty much answered a question i had. i was wondering if i had to run tubes in my tires. you said you do not and you have quite a nice thirdgen with a Big big motor.