Ok I need some advice, Im currently running in ESP but Im really supose to be in SM since I have swapped the drivetrain out. I would like to run in the TSM class but there isnt anyone in there so it would get kinda boring.

So I need to know what to work on next that will give me the best advantage out there. Im currently running KYB non adjustables, polly bushings everywere, rod end panhard, 1LE swaybars on 275/40/17's all the way around. The Tires I was thinking about going with were the 710's but have heard good things from the RA1's. is there any other tire out there thats may be a little less expensive but still gives me good grip and responsiveness in a full R-compound?

second, Im having problems with the inside rear wheel coming unloaded and spinning under acceleration. I have a 9" with an auburn diff in with moser 31 splines. is there a better option for both autoX and street? will a larger rear sway bar and a "stiffer" shock help? whats my best setup for front camber? is there adjustable camber plates out there that I can adjust at the track and then reset back to -1 or 0 for the drive home?

How do I get the car to turn in under braking better? will more camber (actually less -2 -2.5) help? currently running -1. will a heavier front sway bar help? the problem is im pushing, its a pretty typical f-body problem on the tighter courses but I want to make sure im doing everything I can to get rid of it.

I dont want to spend a million dollars on the setup and im looking for stuff that works well on the track but is good for a 500 mile road trip on a moments notice.

 

Well there is no cheap way out in SM. SCCA has made sure of that. I ran SM also with my 3rd gen and it is really uncompetitive nationally. SCCA , SM rules are geared for the BMW's, and front drive cars.
It sounds like the auburn posi has gone bye bye. So now you should upgrade to a locker or a torsen-gleason posi. That will fix the rear end issues.
Get rid of the KYB shocks and step up to the yellow Koni sport shocks.
The Kumho 710 tires are the hot setup so go with those.
As for camber plates, Ground-Control or Global West makes some for 3rd gens. Both companies are very good so you should have no problems with quality.
Front end alignment for "AUTOCROSS ONLY"
0-1/8 toe out max total for both sides. That will help turn in ALOT but make the car dangerous at high speed. So use these specs on the autocross and not the street.
Camber should be set at -2.5 degs or as much as you can get. Set each side the same.
Castor should be set the max 5-6 degs. again set it each side the same.

Have fun !

 

Thanks for the Info, I would love to have a T2R diff But they dont make one for the 9" and i already had a locker and couldnt stand it on the street. so Im kinda stuck with the aubrun. It could prolly use a rebuild.... I was planning on putting the yellow Koni's on there but what about sway bars? do you think the stock bars are ok?

Im going to try to fit a set of 315/35/18 710's on the back and 275/40/17's up front. what would you set the Toe at for a road course? High speed 100+ with some low speed tight corners? I assume the camber would come back to around -1 -1.5.

the way I understand the SM class its basicly a free forall, pretty much any engine and tire combo aswell as reinforcements. basicly a race car that has plates and registration. theres a guy down here with a 4th gen that does well. the other cars in the class are subbies, 350Z, 240, mustang and a c4 vette. they all run about 5-6 seconds faster than me as the car sits right now. Im hoping with a better alignment, shocks and the stickies Ill be more competative...

What did you have done to your car when you ran in SM?

 

Stiffening up the rear will make your problem worse. Depending on you ride height you maybe riding on the outside rear bump stop during cornering that can cause the lifting of the inside rear. Try cutting down or removing the bump stops. After that you may want to try a smaller sway bar to prevent the axle from being so tied to the car body roll.

As for alignment I run -2 degrees camber +6 caster and 1/8" tow out. But it does chew up from tires on the street and is a little darty. If after an alignment you still pushing and your sure you not just over driving try softening the front with maybe a smaller swaybar. The softer the suspension the more mechanical grip you have, but the slower the car transitions from one direction to another. It is all a balancing act.

 

Wow, I love the car, really liked seeing a thirdgen specifically built for ESP. The little things like the Aluminum bumper support add to it as well! pretty sure you cant run aftermarket camber plates in ESP but maybe you would know if its possible to "preset" marks on the plates and adjust them to your "autoX" "road Course" "street" setting while your at the track?

I plan on removing the Bumpstops once I put the 315/35/18's on. Im using a set of 18" C5 wheels for the rear and 17's for the front. Ill leave the sway bars alone for now and see how the car reacts to Koni's and 710's. What tire pressures do you run yours at?

Thanks for the help guys! I hope to actually start competing for points next season.

 

With the SCCA rules you can run camber plates on strut suspensions. It's double A-arm suspensions that are more limited with only allowed offset bushings. I'm using Ground Control caster/camber plate, but it doesn't have any markings for degrees. But I have seen a camber plate setup that does have degree makings but I don't know who made it.

I'm running 275/45-17s at 38 psi front and 30 psi rear.