Allow me to introduce myself. I am 436efi, I recently bought Brutal Fourm's car, which is a 92 Formula. It has a 436 SBC that runs off of a 7730 ECM. I ran a best of 11.58 at 118MPH with a 1.58 60ft. I ran out of RPM through the traps. The Engine makes peak power at 5300 RPM an a chassis dyno and peak TQ at 5000 Rpm. I was going through the traps at around 6k. It has a 3.50 finial gear ratio and I only had a 26" tall tire on it. The engine loves to spin rpm, and it spins very fast to redline because of the solid roller cam, but the cam is quite conservative for 436 cid. At 236 dur @.50" on a 114 LSA. My question is, How do I get it to make more power up top? Its not the heads or intake, it has Brodix Track 1's and an Edelbrock Super Victor intake. On the Dyno, when power started to fall after 5300, it fell at a slow rate, it did not nose dive over like the TQ did, and it followed the A/F slope after 5300 RPM. It does run a little rich at WOT, 11.5-11.7. I know a 28" tire will get me some more MPH and lower my rpm through the traps, But the engine is built to spin to at LEAST 6-6200 RPM. It has an Eagle rotating assambley in it. Any Advice would be great, Thanks

 

Cam change, get a cam with around .600 lift and around 240-255 duration @.050. Lunati makes a good voodoo cam that fits right in that category that I'm going with. Should boost peak numbers up higher and give you some more power if I'm not mistaken.

 

You need a big cylinder head 220-230cc intake runner size and a cam to match I would use a cam with 250-260 duration at .050 and 112 lobe sep and .600-.650 lift. A carb 950hp or larger and a good exhaust system.

 

when the heck did he sell his car? is he building anything else?

 

Track 1’s are nothing to write home about out of the box, looking at the stock flow numbers I would expect them to run out of breath at around 5400rpm trying to fee 436cid.

To turn those kinds of RPM’s you’ll need heads with intake ports in the 230 or bigger range, port flow numbers around 300cfm at least .1” below our max cam lift, and even that super victor will need some work to keep up, you’ll be lucky if it can consistently flow 270cfm/port. Cam selection would largely depend on your final flow numbers.

 

83 crossfire TA, I agree with ya about the Track 1's. But they are worked by a very good cyl head guru, At least that is what I was told. The engine doesnt run out of breath up top, it spins the R's pretty fast, and without the Rev limiter, it would hit 7k easy, but it didnt show that it made anymore power on the dyno after 5300. That is what I am confused about, and the HP did not fall fast or nosedive after 5300, it kinda just started to fall slightly, until 6k when I let up. MW 66 Nova, I bought it approx 1 month ago. Tom was a really good guy until after I bought the car, he said he would help me learn the DIY prom burning, and answer any questions about the car he build. I know what has been done to the car for the most part, but there are some other questions I have about some of the parts he used, and he is not returning any emails or phone calls. He lied about some things with the car when he sold it to me, but I am not really upset about those things, I just have some stupid questions about the build to ask, and he said to another person, F Him, he bought the car, its his problem now. All in all, its a decent car, but its not put toghter correctly. Just have to rewire some things and adjust other things here and there. I am also going to install a Accel DFI Gen 6 Plug and play setup instead of the factory 7730 ECU that is in it now, the Tune is not right, goes too rich at WOT and too lean at cruise and light throttle tip in goes dead lean, almost stalls out. I am not trying to figure out the Pocket programmer and CATS tuner stuff, its too confusing.

 

what are the goals? and do you have emissions laws where you live? also how much are you willing to spend. before you spend big bucks on a cam does it have stud girdles, and how are the valve springs? if the valve springs are weak that could cause a problem at high rpm, things live valve toss and valve float. then if you add cam lift and duration with weak springs it will get worse. just thinking on paper, and sorry the seller is being a silly head, good luck with the car though

 

I would like a VERY low 11 second car. Maybe even VERY high 10's. I am not too far away, but not all that close either. Emmision's?? Whats that?? I am an emmision's inspector in my State, so I am pretty lucky with that. Yes it has stud girdles, Moroso girdles. I dont know about the springs, The original owner has not emailed me back, that was one of my questions. I would assume they are matching Comp Springs, and the Cam description says " easy on valvetrain parts". Thats basically all it says about the cam

 

ok so throw the springs out . moving on i get the impression it will pas emmissions no problem, so a pretty nasty cam can be used if the fuel injection will handle it, i havent used that system and dont know anything about it, so i would investigate that avenue first, if it will handle a gnarly cam then go for it. there are alot of mech. rollers around, or you can get a custom grind from reed cams, comp cams etc. remember that a big inch engine will calm a cam down, a mild cam in a 350 will be tame in yours, try not to get your rpm band too high, driving on the street with a converter over about 3500 in annoying and can build up alot of heat in slow traffic.