no

Although I DID tell 1 person on this board if it makes you feel better, but he's sworn to secrecy as well.
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it happens

 

You're getting there.

 

i'm trying! i'm about to upgrade the ignition system and do some other odds and ends which will get me down closer to you guys, but i need one of your camshafts to do that a stock elminator style grind is not in the budget, lol!

do you think that front end limiters will help any with what i'm trying to do? the front suspension really extends alot before topping out.

also, did you see any gains with that moroso cool can?

 

We aren't allowed to use travel limiters. One thing I am going to look into is having the front struts modified to double adjustable to limit the rebound bouncing.
The custom cams we use wouldn't make for good street cams or basic bracket types. The opening and closing ramps are pretty steep and necessitate more spring pressure to keep the lifter on the lobe.
I haven't had much opportunity to try back to back runs with the cool can. Hopefully this season I can get out and try some of the things I had planned to try this past season.

 

i got ya. i know the ramp rates are quick on those camshafts. i don't do much street driving with this car anymore. more of a weekend warrior type of thing now. i don't want to do a camshaft swap. these are the things i'm gonna do to the car in order of importance/priority:
-full ignition system upgrade
--summit racing billet distributor
--summit racing coil, 117:1 turn ratio
--either msd digital 6 plus or summit racing digital box (this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku )
-pro-form electric water pump
-lighter weight starter
-holley blue pump (i'm still running a stock mechanical replacement pump)
-possible front end limiters
-THEN i'll start building a bigger motor


i realize that most of the stuff above won't help but a few tenths but i'm hoping to make the car more consistant. i'm hoping for some super low 12's before i yank it out. i don't want to pull the motor out till i've killed the 305.

do you have any experience with royal purple and stuff like that?

 

on motor 1.60 and on nitrous 1.37

 

stiletto, what's your combo? what's it run on motor? on spray?

 

I run the RP #9 which on newer bottles is labelled 0w-10. I always change it every 35-40 runs.

 

I like that summit ignition system, looks like it should work well and the price is good. I would put some adjustable struts like koni spa 1's in the front , limiters may actually hurt on your car, it may not have enough hp to keep the rear loaded after launch, and then you may wind up with tire spin, however, I have a cable swedgeing tool and some cable and sleeves, I can make you a set like I did for the camaro, they are short, but they work, you just need to weld a nut on the cross member where it meets the body, i trimmed the flange a little, you would have to either supply or pay for the eye bolts though, they are a little pricey, like 15 bucks or so i think, the whole setup has less monkey motion than the ones they sell though. I used 1/2 inch eye bolts, you could try 3/8 stainless ones, like fom h/d they would be cheeper, in fact i have some, i was going to weld the ends but then i found the 1/2 inch ones. I see the date for gafba is later this year...you going to hit mce day? I am thinking about doing that to get tuned up for gafba. Have to see how the limiters are working with the trans brake lol

 

what sort of event is the gafba having? i'd like to try and make it.....

 

they are having a drag race get together thing at silver dollar raceway, in renalds ga. here is the track website. pretty nice track, hooks good
http://www.silverdollarraceway.com/index.htm

 

yeah, i'll be at the mce deal as well as GAFBA. i was just gonna use some chain from the hardware store. that's what my dad and i did on his old car. just got some big bolts and then some decent chain, drill some holes in the k-member and the a-arm and bolt the SOB together. it's adjustable by 1" per link or something like that. they worked pretty good, and they were super cheap.

 

With the limited torque of the 305, I'd be hesitant to restrict the front travel. You really need to have the front work freely to get the weight transferred like you need. One thing we work on with these little motors is letting the chassis to do what the motor may not be have the off-the-line torque to do.
Limited torque really needs a free working chassis and a fairly aggressive gearing package to make it leave hard. My best 60' running in J/SA is 1.46, though I do run a bunch more stall in my converter and way steeper gears than yours has. The principle though is still the same.

 

i gotchya. i'm thinking of going to a 28x9 slick next season for bracket racing. i'm gonna run a m/t slick and it's actually only 27.3" tall, so i'll get a little more gearing over my 28" tires i got now...

 

Matt, you only have the stock mechanical fuel pump in your car? That's the only thing pushing fuel from the back of the car to your carb?!? Damn, why can't MINE keep up! I'm thinking about biting the bullet and adding a helper mechanical pump, but I keep getting stuck on why so many (faster) cars can work fine with just a mech pump.

 

its vodoo, and he has good juju.....

 

It runs 11.33 @ 120 on motor and 9.90 lifting once on 150 shot.

Its a 350 bored .040 over 12.1 with solid roller and pro action 220 heads that flow 301@.600. Its a little sluggish on motor but onth nitrous it likes it . I have a th400 with a 4800 converter and ihave a trans brake but i dont use it. I foot brake the car to 2200 and leave on the nitorus.

 

yep, that's it. the car was originally a 3.1 car, i dropped the tank, cut the pickup off where the pump was, added a piece of 3/8" tubing to it via compression fitting and now only have a stock replacement lg4 mechanical pump working the fuel supply. i'm wondering if it's dying though (seems they die a slow death) because i'm having a hard time with it pulling up top, and it only does it in final drive. in the first two gears it pulls harder above 6000rpm than it does in drive, but that could be because they're shorter and it only feels like the car pulls harder. regardless, one of the things i'm doing with my tax return is putting my holley blue pump on it. i'm also doing the igntion system and doing away with the hardlines that go from trans to cooler. i'm putting in that blue twist-loc hose.
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sounds like a fun combo. that really picks up with the nitrous! normally 150shot is good for about a sec. seems like you got the combo working well together!

 

If you managed to squeak out a mid 12 second time with that pump it must be working. Mine definitely does a nose dive later in 3rd gear. I'm going to try and re-setup my fuel pressure gauge on a t before the carb and be sure. The pumps only got maybe 500 miles on it, so unless it's faulty, I think it needs an electric pump.
Holley blue, do you need a regulator with that? I'm hoping to get an electric and get it to pump into the mech pump and avoid a regulator.

 

yes, you need a regulator for the blue pump. i'll be doing away with the mechanical all together. i know for a fact that something is up between the 1000' mark and the 1/4 traps. my car runs 7.9x's in the 1/8th, that's good for like 12.2x's in the 1/4. i hope to get the spark/fuel supply stuff fixed and then hopefully the car will pull all the way through the traps. my highest mph is 103.99...and have had a TON of 103.9x runs, i simply can't get it to run 104, lol! if it doesn't, then i suppose the problem truely is the camshaft is running out of steam, or i might need to step down to a 4.33 gear, but i'm gonna do a lot of 1/8th mile racing this season so i'll probably keep it like it is.

 

it dont run badi cruise around town at night on 93 pump gas, and when i race it i use 110 and 118 nos gas for the dedicated fuel systen for the nitrous. I dont want detonation

 

i hear ya. i'm actually gonna step up to some 100 unleaded since it's readily available at my track and is only a little more than 93 + octane booster. i don't spray the car, but it'll be good for it and it seems to like the higher octane on as much timing as i run.

 

octane booster is a waste and doesn't even raise fuel 1 full octane point. Instead save your money and mail it to me

 

I have one of those that hasnt ever been run, just bolted in a motor. PM me if you are interested, i'd let it go pretty cheap.

 

1.28-1.29 t-break, or foot is the same. ED Quay Built the car, to stock eliminator specifications. I have never touched the shocks. It worked right away. THM 400 2.10 frist, 3.89 rear, 10.5x 28.5 x 15's The motor was a 477cid Pontiac 9.19 147.92 mph 3380 LBS back in 03-04.

 

1.64 motor and a 1.52 nitrous both foot breaking on radials. got some new hoosiers so new times to come.

 

ok, so i got my new best 60' off the t-brake on this past sunday and i have a couple of questions for some super suspension guru's. it went 1.645 toting the front left about 8" and right about 4".

i don't believe it's chassis twist, based on the one video i saw of the car, it looks like suspension flex.

i do not have an anti-roll bar, nor the $$$ to get one, nore the time to make one, lol! i have a factory IROC bar on the car. right now i have it bolted to the rearend with some 3" muffler clamps since the moser 9" has larger axle tubes. i noticed the last time i had the rearend in the air that the clamps appear to be rotating around the axle tubes. i'm wondering if this might have some to do with my not-so-straight launches.

here's the question: can i weld the muffler clamps to the rearend and expect them to hold up? i'm just trying to take all the flex out of the suspension that i can before the next race to help with consistancy to the 60' (and to maybe lower them some more...could be cool to have a high 1.5x 60' time out of my n/a 305) also, the sway bar has poly end links, but some junk stock rubber bushings holding them to the rear. would i benefit from putting polys bushings in there? would it be possible to some how hard mount the sway bar to the car where the endlinks attach? would that even be beneficial without having it hard mounted to the rear end?

any insight would be helpful. i got the car to where it likes to run the whole track relatively well, i want to REALLY start crackin' on some suspension stuff now. one day when i have the money i'll put some adjustable shocks struts on it and whatnot, but do you guys think it'll like some 90/10's up front? i'm running stock wore out 240K mile front struts right now. i tried some trick springs about a year ago and it slowed the car down to the 60' cause it wanted to go up instead of out, but was before i was yankin' the tires off the ground. i guess i could give them a try again? i hated that install and would like to continue with the cut v6 springs that seem to be working so well right now though.

 

I REALLY want to hear an answer on this one. Getting something heavier duty than the u-bolt muffler clamp, but can still bolt to the normal sway bar mount might work...?

 

http://www.airliftcompany.com/al1000.html

It works. You only really need the right side bag. There is enough stuff in the kit to do two Camaros.

 

where can i buy it and about what does it cost?

to be honest, i'd rather have a stiff mounted bar though...

 

You can Buy Airlift air bags from Summit $78

Under $40 if you split the kit up with a friend.

 

mw66nova, have any pictures of the launch.

 

On the factory rear there was a tab welded that the clamp keyed to which prevented rotation. The factory bar will do the job. Put the air bag in the right side spring and fill to 30 psi. You should find the rotation will be gone.

 

no, camera died right before the pass

mod313, here's what i'm thinking of doing. i'm gonna stitch weld the clamp to the rear, cause your right, the factory rear had a tab and this one does not. i am then going to see what it'll take for a buddy with a lathe to make me some solid aluminum bushings. all this stuff will be free or close to it, so that's why i'm thinking of doing this like this. in theory, it should work really well.

 

solid aluminum bushings for the LCAs or? Also for the 9" just order the sway bar mounting bracket and weld them on. I believe wolfe racecraft and possibly spohn sells them. You don't need clamps then just 2 bolts and you're done. Also run a shorter poly endlink on the drivers side by 1/2" and that'll help even out the launch along with the airbag kit.

 

matt, it wont take much more than a tack weld to stop the clamp from moving. and the more solid the bar the better, untill it rips a mount off the car lol. when you get some money ..ok alot of money lol, you could throw a drag bar under there, or build a sway bar like i did..except diffrent, take a look at some of the new fab 9's for fox bodies (and others) the anti roll bar is on the axle, and then you just need to mount the arms up there, shold be able to clear the gas tank if thought out well.

 

steve, no, it'll be for the sway bar where it attaches to the rearend. i like the idea about running a shorter endlink on that side, i guess putting some preload on it, right?

rich, do you guys have a lathe? i'm wanting to throw some good thinking at what i have before i go and spend some more money....

 

a quality poly bushing would be fine for the sway bar mounting bushings, the shorter endlink does preload the suspension differently and changed the side to side bias on the weight scales when I had my car on there. Launching became even with that and 15 pounds of pressure in the pass airbag and 5 in the drivers airbag. I don't see how you'd get a 1 piece bushing around the sway bar when the ends are bigger, you'd still be stuck with a 2 piece bushing with no way to lubricate it unless you drilled and tapped it for a zerk fitting. Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. I don't even have the poly bushings on my rear yet and it picks up both tires evenly.

 

i'll try the shorter endlink on one side deal. i though about getting a stack of washers and replacing the bushings on the end links...think that would benefit any way? yes, the aluminum bushings around the sway bar would be a two piece design, i already thought about that...as well as the zerk fitting deal. i think i'll see about getting a set of poly bushings for it for the moment. they're only like $15 for the set of two.

 

i doubt solid washers compared to the already hard poly would make a difference besides bend and bang around a lot. Besides once they're snugged down there really isn't any deflection.

 

ok, that's what i'mma do then. tomorrow when i get out of class, i'm gonna go down to my folks house, zap the clamps to the housing (stitch welds only mind you, i want this to be a reversable project, lol!) and i'm gonna cut 1/2" out of the spacer on the driver's side end link to get things preloaded. i'm running the brackets this saturday, i'll let ya'll know how it works out. i'll likely get to make a couple of night time test passes and i'll make one pass off the transbrake!

 

hopefully there's a lot more threads on there than I remember, I don't recall the bolts having an extra 1/2" of threads.

 

no we do not have a lathe, also, do not use a stack of washers. some movement is required so that it doesnt bind and twist parts off the car. as for cutting the spacer...i wouldnt, because i have a different approach for that, get a piece of all thread rod from h-d or lowes, and some nuts, that way you can use the bushings and washers from the current links and then at the track you can adjust it, where it works good, then cut the spacer to that length, but save the part you cut off to use as a spacer since you will run out of threads...make sense?

 

that sounds like a really good idea rich. i'll tackle that part of the project tomorrow. then it'll be adjustable...but cheap

 

budget racing...still fun!

hey, new addition
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I hope i never use it!
oh yeah you might double nut the ones on the inside...dont want them moving

 

so after spending an hour underneath the car looking at what i had to work with and realizing how much interference i was running into with the way the muffler clamps have the sway bar positioned, i'm just gonna save up the $400 and buy the Spohn drag bar...

 

my stock bar fit fine, just rotate the clamps facing the back slightly to move the bar slightly back. That spohn drag bar isn't the proper thing to be running, I'd use a stock bar, or save the coin and get the wolfe racecraft bar IMO.

 

Hey xpndble, can the wolfe racecraft bar be used on the street?

Matt - what about using a different clamp on the axle tubes, ie not those u-bolts. Something more like saddle clamps used on industrial pipes?

 

daily driver never, for a sunday fun car possibly, only issue will be it'll ride a lot rougher.

 

And if you give it throttle through a curve it'll yank the car straight? (i'm thinking like a 4 link?)
Hmm, ok, not for me then.