Going to the track this sunday for the test n tune havent raced since july. Last time i raced i ran a 13.87 with a 2.1 60 foot and when it didnt spin it would bog down. So i fixed the bog and im ready to go the track i usually leave on the 3rd yellow and have a pretty good reaction time. My converter is suppose to be a 2025 stall s10 converer but only foot brakes too 1800 i usually just let of the brake and gun it. How should i launch my mods are in the signature.

 

get some slicks and see how it goes. Launching on street tires at best will net you a 1.9 or so, try stalling it up a little or different rpms, sometimes off idle works best. Really your traction limited since street tires don't stick.

 

im running slicks mickey thompson et streets 26x11.5x16 slicks and best 60 foot was a 2.0

 

Wow, 2.0 is pretty bad on slicks, so there has got to be something you can do different. I'm posting because I too would like to know this stuff. I dont think you are overpowering your tire at all with a bolt on motor.
I was cutting 2.0 60's on my Integra when I was running a 205 drag radial so it sounds like you are really bogging.

How do you make a auto tranny come out of the hole in the upper RPM range? Do the different stalls help that out? I think you probably need to be leaving the box at 3-3.5K where the meat of your torque is.

 

My Camaro netted me a 2.0 60 ft w/ bald street tires stalling it at 1800 rpm.

 

Try giving it just enough rpm till you can feel the car "push" then when you gas it, don't slam it down, just squeeze it....i know that sounds easy, but when your pumped up and ready to go it's hard to control yourself, but if you do you should definitely be able to get the car to move out of the hole better. You may want to try adding some "ballast" to the rear as well, you would be amazed at what 30 lbs or so in the rear of car can do. Just remember to secure it properly!

 

yeah thats what i do i stall it up to about 1800 let of the brake and gun it sucks sometimes he tires started to spin and spins real bad but when it does hook and bogs so i fixed that problems others say im down on power thats why my 60 sucks but running 13.87 with a 2.1 60 foot on just a motor with exhaust and carb and intake swap i think is right on the money

 

on a auto the torque converter has a stall speed to were you hold the brakes in gear at a certain rpm until it will brake the tires loose right now i can hold it to about 1800 until it spins on order for me to launch at 3-3.5 i would need a 3500 stall converter which is too much for a stock 350 ill probaly get a 2500next week

 

what pressure you running in those slicks? I can't see at your power level having traction issues. How do you do your burnout? Have you tried launching off idle and just hammering it?

 

i run 13psi, i dont see me having traction issues either when it did hook it would bog bad secondaries kicked in too fast so i added a adjustable secondary housing now it comes on smoother nad doesnt bog. I never tried leaving the line but just letting of brake and gunning it. for my burnout i drive threw the water giving it a quick spin then go in the box and burn out in drive going about 3k until it hits third

 

did you try slowly dropping the pressure from 16 or so hot down to 13 or just put in 13 and never adjust it? The burnout sounds about right though the spinning in the water box isn't necessary. You want to roll through it without spinning the tires then when you're at the edge of the water box start your burnout. Probably slinging water all over your wheelwells and it's dripping on the starting line.

 

yeah just 13 all the time im gonna try 18 and 16 at the lowest i looked on the mickey thompson website and it say for over 3000 pounds and a 26 diameter tire the lowest i should run is 16

 

you drop 1 pound until your 60' stops improving at a time. i'd start around 18 and go from there, hopefully you have time to do that. each launch should be identical and you can't change anything else either while adjusting launch pressure. so launch same rpm, etc each time.

 

you should be able to hook on 18 psi with fresh tires. even the small 26x10.50x15 ET streets (smaller treadwidth than 245 street tires) hook enough for high hp cars with the right suspension.

I think your stall speed is way to low for you car, you want 2800-3000. thats what i have and it works good, i may even go with a 3200 now. I think your power band would be similar to my hsr L98 as the HSR and a carb manifold would flow near the same and overpower the stock heads and cam as is. you probly dont have alot of lowend around 2000rpms but starts really peaking around 2600-3400 rpms and staying flat till 4000

But even with 2025 stall, you should be capable of high 1.8x 60 foots. i went 1.88 and 1.89 on street tires with my 2800 stall and i was walking it out the hole since those street tires didnt hook all that well.

Whats all done with your suspension? i'd recommend good shocks and LCA brackets with LCA's so you can play with the mounting angle. That could help

Also try rolling abit past the water box and spining the tires there on the brake and then releasing the brake while still on the throttle to drag them forward abit. Thats how i do my burnouts. My new ET streets have very soft rubber compared to my old set that i got used. they require very little burnout but the old used set required alot of heat to get them to hook conistantly.

I've found that my car left harder when i stalled it up as high as i could get it then mashing it off the line. I used to bring it up halfway and then let it flash up and that worked well in the summertime for some reason but in the cool air, it improved alot with full brake stalling. but with that small stall, you may want to try flashing off near idle or 1000rpm brake stall to let it slam the tires abit harder

 

put the car in neutral, push on the brakes hard, rev the engine, then put it back in gear. your brakes will bite down more and you should be able to brake torque more than 1800rpms without spinning the tires.

 

you don't need to brake torque that high at all. Just try flashing the converter from 1000 rpm, maybe idle, maybe 1500. I stall mine to 2000 but it flashes 4000 on the launch.

 

hopefully tommarow ill have plenty of time to try out all you guys helpful suggestions. Ill be at MIR test n tune all day long tommarow so hopefully ill brake into 100MPH this past july in 90 degree heat i hit 99.1 MPH

 

if its cold out like it is around here, you'll definately pick up. i was doing 99-100 in pretty hot air and in just abit cooler air i hit 101.xx and then 103.8 in cold air with my drag wheels

 

high 40's low 50's hopefully it wont be like last time i raced spun bad no bog hooked good bogged

 

good luck dude

 

thanks for your help guys the best way for me was to footbrake to 1600rpms and then gunning it on the 3rd yellow i went from 2.1 60 foot to a 1.9 60 foot no more bog either that adjustable secondary housing really makes things nice and smooth

 

what did u change from the 2.1 to the 1.9?

 

foot braked to 1600rpms ran the tires at 18psi got rid of the bog in the carb. Im pretty sure im maxed out on this converter and gear.

 

You only give part of your times what is your real 60'' foot 1.90-1.99 you always leave the last number off and there is a big difference between 1.90 and 1.99,im shooting for mid to low 1.90''s next time out with some susp. mods and street tires

 

I think you would benefit greatly from a little more converter...