Went to the Yuka Flats (Lapeer Dragway) this weekend and sprayed the car for the first time (Never used Nitrous before). Played it safe and ran the timing at 32 total with the distributor locked out and 6 psi of fuel pressure with a 150 shot. Here are the results and a pic. Comments on nitrous tuning welcome........

150 Shot
1.383 60Ft
6.720 1/8 ET
106.71 1/8 MPH
10.502 1/4 ET
127.22 1/4 MPH

NA
1.541 60Ft
7.16 1/8 ET
101.94 1/8 MPH
11.10 1/4 ET
122.57 1/4 MPH

The nitrous runs were foot braking the car and the NA passes were using the transbrake. I would like to setup the transbrake to use with the nitrous. Anyone spraying right off of the transbrake with a 2 step and if so how?

 

do you run a rear sway bar? that car sure is torquing over a lot during the launch. If you do run one, looks like it's anti-roll bar time for you.

 

Yep, a crappy stock sway bar. The Wolfe Craft Anti Roll Bar is next on the list.

Here are some vids I posted on Youtube....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SGmk4sch0I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4X4xeyip0I

 

im running 11 on motor and 9s on spray. thats in a s10 though. with a 355. and im spraying 225 on the transbrake with a 5500 converter. your 60 ft is really good. what size tire are you using. im building a turbo camaro now.

 

Running a 29 x 9 Hoosier on and 8 inch rim.
Motor:
383 12.2:1
Dart 230 Heads 2.055/ 1.60
Solid Flat Tappet Cam 274/274 @.050 579 Lift 110 C/L
1 7/8 Headers
Pro Products Super Victor Intake
750 Mighty Demon

 

To use NOS with a transbrake, it's best if you use some sort of controller. You could wire the NOS up directly to the transbrake circuit so that when the transbrake releases, the NOS circuit activates. A simple relay will work. Same idea as using a fuel pressure switch. If fuel pressure drops, the NOS is turned off.

Using a controller or rpm switch can add a slight delay to the NOS activation. That allows you to get a bit of momentum and traction before the NOS hits. Usually .5 or less than a second off the line. Using an RPM switch, you can launch at whatever your 2-step is set for then have the NOS wired through the RPM switch at a higher rpm. While on the 2-step, the rpms will be below the NOS rpm. As soon as you launch, the rpms increase and activate the NOS.

Programmable ignitions such as the MSD digital 6/7 can do the same thing. My old Holley Annihilator ignition has 2 built in RPM switches that I never use.

 

there is just about any type of wireing diagram on this page... it sucks you only gained .6 and 5 mph off a 150 shot, but that cam is all wrong for spray.


http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501965

 

Car looks good! But, your definitely losing power somewhere and I don't want to say it is definitely the cam but maybe it needs more tuning..

 

Nice going, I remember seeing you last summer at the dirtway..nice bird for sure. How`s that chevelle doing? I have not seen it this summer? car looks like it`s hooking enough to warrant the anti roll, I just put one on the 9 inch from wolfe..worked out real nice took the twist out almost completely.


I would follow the kits instructions, run 2 degrees out of total for every 50 hp increase and I personally would not go below 5.5 psi on the fuel, but you can lean the system for more power by decreasing the fuel pressure. A data logger or wide band system can give you a good idea on the Nos/Fuel ratio, plug reading is the best thing to tune with EVEN with all the toys like EGTs and widebands, dataloggers. I would pull a plug at the return road, have a spare to reinstall....
there are two major things to inspect for, timing and fuel...here`s a link I used when I first started reading plugs this year
http://www.culverbrothersracing.com/...rkplug101.html
I found a few other sources that have pictures but honestly what type of fuel you use will vary the look of the readings soo don`t go by everything you see and read on the net. I can tell you that VP112 leaves a Faint yellow ring to indicate the fuel mixture on the white of the plug. you will need to machine off or cut off the thread portion of the plug to read this. generally your looking to have the heat mark on the ground strap near where it connects to the barrel of the plug, I have found that moving the timing up will lower the mark by .060 to .080 lower and vise versa for moving the timing down.

basically, the bosch type relays can do this, I use them to spray on the release of the brake against a two step & also to trigger a retard on the activation, I could make up a diagram if you need, LMK.

 

Thanks for the compliments.

I agree the car was off on MPH and a little ET. I have the cam retarded 1.5 degrees and I know "Now" this is hurting it (Needs to be advanced). This 383motor was built to test and play with nitrous. I plan to tear down my 355 and put forged pistons in it this winter and up the cam to a 276/286 solid roller on either a 110 or 114 C/L. This way I can play with the timing and fuel a little more, rather than having some detonation and exploding the Hyper pistons.

GreeseMonkey-
As for the Chevelle, I was just talking to my brother tonight at a birthday party and he needs a new drive shaft from the carnage we did 2 years ago at Lapeer. The cross member cracked and the rear ladder bar bracket bent and destroyed some stuff. I am trying to get my bro to get a new drive shaft and put my nitrous kit on his car. Also, please post a wiring diagram for me and congrats on your accomplishments as well.

 

One more note:

The car is only trapping 200-300 RPM's over the NA trap RPM's. Shifting at 7500 and trapping at 7200/7300 NA and 7500 on the juice. I am running a 5.00 gear on a 29'' tire and thinking that the Nitrous is having a little issue reving that high. Thoughts?

 

After reading everything, I would say the tune is pretty good, on the vids the car looked to be running clean and strong. Having the Cam retarded has a HUGE impact on the n20 performance. Also, what fuel are you running?.

Another thing is, you might be driving right though the converter (I assume is a 5K+ stall setup for motor?)

Otherwise, maybe see what u can do about that cam timing, and then start making tune ajustments (a little dyno time never hurts either).

IROC.

 

110 Sunoco and the converter will stall 5500 on the trans brake (9.5" Converter). Would have been nice to use the brake and the juice together. I pulled my other motor (355) apart today and will be putting forged slugs in it and possibly a larger cam. The current cam in the 355 is a solid roller 266/278 @.050 .600 Lift 108 C/L with no advance built into the cam. Thinking either advance this cam 4-8 degrees or go with the bigger 276/286 and advance it the same.

 

As was said before, its really easy to wire up setup for juice and a Transbrake, and yes advancing the cam will do wonders. Once that is figured out, you can find out what kinda timing the car likes @6.0PSI fuel pressure, with 110 race fuel, I would imagine it might like 1 or 2 deg more timing (try 1 degree at a time) I think the 6.0psi is a good thing, some ppl go down to 5.5 but that would depend on the plugs (I would have it on the dyno with a wideband and EGT myself) Also makesure to watch the bottle pressure and how you have the feed line routed. It can only have a 6 inch radius MAX per 90 degree bend so watch for over bending.

Anyhoo best of luck.

 

NOS likes a load, 5.00 gear with a 29 sounds like a 1/8 mile car, no wonder that thang is hanging the tire like that! Yea it needs less gear somewhere around 4.10 would put you around 7,000 at the strip. You may even get away with a 4.30 if your cammed enough and have plenty of valve spring.

I`ll get a diagram together and post it here, I have it hand drawn currently.

 

Nitrous activation on release of the transbrake with or without a window RPM switch






This is how I wired mine up, I also used another relay to trigger the progressive controller and depending on your ign system the retard activation may or may not be able to be activated off one of the current relays, I had to use a seprate one with mine, it`s a MSD and the retard only works when GRD is removed from the trigger wire. If you run into trouble or have questions please just ask. Most important...test the system without NOS and if you run a seprate fuel system for the sneeze, trigger the fuel pump off the arming switch using another relaly of course. One other thing you may want to add is a fuse between the battery and terminal #30 of the NOS relay and possibly a circuit breaker on the wire from the battery to the arming switch...

SEE YA AT THE TRACK!

 

GM......

Thank you Sir...

I will need to get one more relay to make this work. Now, I just need you to give me the dimensions on the Anti Roll Bar, plates, bar, brackets, etc. and we will be all set....J/K...
Thanks again....

 

cool man...Lapeer goes into December don`t they.....

Wolfe is having a 20% off sale until Jan 6 08` good time to buy anything you need there...

EDIT...only items they manufacture are discounted...your good still

 

I am done for the year, unless I can get my friend to run his 89 Mustang with a 351W that I assisted with. First Ford I ever Built and WOW they are strange....