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With my AC working and the only thing broken on my car being the parking brake, my AC has taken a hit. On the gauge, 13 is regular 14 volt charge (resistance break down). Now when I idle with AC somedays it hits just above the red marks.
I read up on this article - http://sethirdgen.org/cs144.htm but I wanted to know if someone found an easier way or have alternative part numbers? That's the best article I could find on it so far, thanks!
I just did my 86 Z28 but my is a carb 350 with no smog(gotta love Wa),the cs144 bolts up to stock brackets,I used a alternator from a 96 Cadillac deville the top hole is threaded and fits in my bracket.You have to reclock the alternator so the battery post is at the 1 o'clock position.The wiring is very simple the brown wire goes to L(terminal 1)and the red(terminal 2) goes to S which is the large wire on the plug.The plug I got didn't have one but almost any plug connector has the same style so I found one and added to my plug.Just make sure the gauge is the correct size,or buy a so universal CS cable. Since I deleted my ECM I actually had no power coming out of my brown wire so I just tapped into another wire that was a fuse to the ignition switch for power. I also wired in a 47 ohm resister to the L wire for proper resistance. Got 14.5 V at idle and the heater,lights,wipers etc on at the stoplight it just drop to 12.4 V.I replace my charge cable to 4 gauge and grounded the alternator case to the chassis in 4 gauge too.For safety I added a 80 amp fuse to the charge cable like the ones you use for a car amplifier. The lights are brighter and the car seems to run better overall very happy with the alternator swap
On the lower left of the picture you can see my fuse
Stock brackets and still bolted to the intake manifold.The larger adjusting bolt fits and makes the install move OE than some conversions I saw on the internet