I did this swap about a year ago and have had no problems. I spent a lot of time researching the wiring part of the conversion and ran into so much conflicting information that I just figured it out myself.





Remove CS-130 alternator (and braces to intake manifold and exhaust manifold.)




Note how much larger the AD244 is than the CS130.




Set your AD244 alternator into the mounting bracket and install, but do not tighten, the outer bolt.
Note how much material will need to be removed from the alternator mounting bracket.
Flip your alternator out of the path of any cuttings and remove just enough material elongating the
original alternator hole to be able to install your new bolt through the AD-244 mounting hole.
Note: You could use a smaller diameter bolt and not remove any material. Your choice.





Install the AD244 alternator with both bolts through the mounting bracket. The inner bolt is a 3/8"
UNC x 3-1/2" long hex head capscrew. The original bolt was buttonhead for clearance of the drive belt,
but I have not had any interference problems.








A local parts house built the output wire extension. It is about 6" long and is 4 gauge. I attached it to the
original output wire with a nut, bolt and star washer, then heat shrinked it and wrapped with wire loom.
Note the alternator was removed for clarity.





The original brace running from the intake manifold to the back of the inner mounting bracket is too
long because the flange on the AD244 is much thicker than the CS130 alternator. I fabricated a new
brace using 1/2" diameter cold roll mild steel. The ends were heated with an oxy-acetylene torch and
then flattened in a hydraulic press





The AD244 alternator does not have a provison for the brace running to the exhaust manifold bolt so I
left it off. This completes the physical mounting of the alternator. It looks factory original and enables
the reinstall of the original CS130.





Every AD244 I tried was triggered by the L wire. My Camaro uses the I wire to trigger the CS130
alternator. To test your alternator, hook up the output wire and build yourself a test rig using a
replacement harness for the AD244 (also applicable to any alternator). You will need the
aforementioned harness, light and some wire. I used bullet connectors to be able to easily switch
between the L wire and the I/F wire. I also built a resistor to be able to test it on the harness. The trigger
wire is attached (temporarily) to the output post.








I tried both the I/F wire and the L wire to see which excited the alternator. My alternator was triggered
on the L wire. The included pictures show the difference in voltage before, and after, the light.....

 

and the
resistor.





Since the adapter harness was straight through, I needed to modify it. I cut the I wire and L wires and
spliced them together with a Resistor, 1/2 Watt 470 Ohm Radioshack PN 271-1115, and heat shrinked
them. I tested the output with and without the sense wire hooked up and decided to go with it hooked
up (hence the splice and heatshrink). Note the adapter came with 4 wires but I removed 2 that were not required.





I got my adapter harness from a local alternator repair shop, Pn 43314, vendor unknown, but it looks to
be the same as this W3030D from Quality Power Auto.





Install the adapter harness and use some wire loom to give it a factory apperarance.





Due to the difference in case size, you will require a longer belt. I used an ACDelco 6PK2425.





Output is vastly improved, especially at idle.





And the completed install, looking like it came that way from the factory.
Completely reversible back to the original CS130.

 

Nice!!!! Did you put bright leds in the gauge illumination? Yours are so much brighter than even the ones on my low mile car. And a metric set of gauges nice

 

Nice job. I wonder if there is a harness adapter on the market that is already set up for this type of conversion. I did this swap on my 98 Tahoe and the wiring was plug and play so I lucked out.

 

Awesome, I really appreciate the write up. I have one of the alternators to install in my car but this emboldens me to actually do it.

 

Thanks.

Yes I did swap in some LED bulbs. Made a huge difference!

 

Excellent work.Are any of the unused ports on the alt plug good for usage on the volt gauge?

 

The voltmeter works with the adapter harness. I did not have to do anything

 

Is that what the blue wire is going to?

 

The blue wire is the "voltage sensing" wire.

 

Excellent write up. Just have 2 questions. Which AD244 did you use and did you just end up leaving the back brace completely off?

 

I used the alternator I got from my local source, (he gave me a really good price on it). It appears to be from World Power Systems. The original spec would be an alternator from a 1999 to 2002 Silverado.
There is no provision to mount a rear brace and I have not fabricated any additional bracing.

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks for the reply. Was just doing some research and it's quite difficult finding the exact AC Delco equivalent. I want to do this but with the OEM alternator from ACD. Do you happen to know the case size? I think this is Delco part #3351092

 

This World Power Systems alternator has 253 Amp output.
Any AD244 clocked for a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, etc with the four wire connector will work. They came most commonly in 130 amp and 145 amp outputs

 

Denn11
I am thinking about this.
Reading on another site this alt will revert to 14.5 if it senses over charge or short.
Now, if that is a true fact, then could it be used as a 1 wire, or would doing so cause ultimate failure in a short time frame?

{ edit }
I would run as 1 wire because the Camaro does not have any alt plug or wires. Some time ago someone had removed that, along with a few other wires.

 

Hey denn question for you. I just installed mine. Why did you use a resistor on the exciter wire? Can I run it without one?

 

what belt did you require for this and how did you find it?

 

I believe there might be another option that's cheaper and bolts right on. Will default to 13.8v without any wiring or can be controlled by a small 20$ box to run any voltage you want from 11-15.5.

its shown over here. you can get low mileage take off from new gm trucks for 100$ on ebay. *edit they are 220amp alt

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/alte...ml#post6544333

 

I posted over on another thread but will update this one also with my results for when someone tries this.
But I bought a duralast AD244 from autozone (told them for an 02 Escalade). I didn't want to drill into the brackets any, so I just bought a thinner grade 8 bolt that would fit all the way though on the inner casing bolt. The hex bolt at the bottom still fit fine though.
Once everything was bolted in, I needed to get a longer belt. I think an inch longer is all I needed.
Then I got 470k ohm resistors, female CS130 connector, and AD244 male connector. 470k ended up not starting the alternator at all. So I got 470, and that worked. I could now initialize the alternator on the AD connector's L or S wire using either one of the wires on the CS connector.
The alternator wines pretty bad when initialized (which exhaust and hood down can no longer be heard). So I called customer support and they said to have it bench tested at autozone. The bench test shows it was fine. So Ill live with it.
I dont have a stereo or anything I can put a huge drain on the battery except for the LS1 fans. But with the battery charged (a new one) fans off engine cold, I see about 14 volts on the system and 5 amps from the alternator. When things heat up, fans are on, I see about 20 amps and 13.7 volts. So this is much better than the CS, but still not the 14.x I would expect. But I think I can live with it, especially when I noticed some of the newer cars (like my acadia) dont run at 14.x. They seem to drop into the 13s and only go up when needed. "smart" alternators?