To coil over or not to coil over....
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: TH350 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
To coil over or not to coil over....
OK guys i need to pick your brains again...i have an 86 sport coupe with v6 springs all the way around, 90/10 lakewoods up front and otherwise stock suspension, it launches pretty well now and hooks up on a 275/50R15 BFG drag radial.
Now I'm thinking about putting a lot more power to it and potentially a trans brake for next year, along with all adjustable tubular suspension. Now my question is should i go for the weight savings and adjustability of the coil overs with the new K member and A arms? or will the stock stuff be ok for me. my goal is mid to low 10s on nitrous. The car is almost exclusively a track car, but will see VERY occasional street duty.
Now I'm thinking about putting a lot more power to it and potentially a trans brake for next year, along with all adjustable tubular suspension. Now my question is should i go for the weight savings and adjustability of the coil overs with the new K member and A arms? or will the stock stuff be ok for me. my goal is mid to low 10s on nitrous. The car is almost exclusively a track car, but will see VERY occasional street duty.
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
The tubular stuff would make life easier as far as clearances and working on things, losing the weight is always a big plus, more tunablitiy is never a bad thing, but i talked with AJE and PA at the world street challenge pricing out a complete tubular/coil over/rack set up and at a discounted $2600 for EVERYTHING and the fact my factory junk is working just fine, i'll use that extra money towards something else.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: TH350 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
any ideas on front spring rates? i might go to front coil overs before any tubular stuff so if it doesnt work out so well i will just order the k member and arms with spring perches. It's an iron headed small block for now, going to aluminum small block this winter
#4
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,113
Likes: 0
Received 120 Likes
on
101 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
I run tubular k-member and a-arms with Koni SPA1 struts. I was running V6 springs for a few years but a year ago, I upgraded to Moroso BBC trick springs.
It's still considered a stock style setup and works for me.
The only reason I still use a manual steering box instead of a rack is that the large tube headers prevent a steering shaft from getting anywhere close to where a steering rack input shaft would be.
It's still considered a stock style setup and works for me.
The only reason I still use a manual steering box instead of a rack is that the large tube headers prevent a steering shaft from getting anywhere close to where a steering rack input shaft would be.
#5
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
Your going to have to scale it as each car set up is different at each tire point..front half/back half. Go to a grain co-op or truck stop and get weighed front/rear and that will tell you what you'll have to have.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: TH350 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
thanks, i have a lot of circle track friends too so i may be able to borrow a 4 corner scale. it's still having body work done, but i'm just trying to stockpile parts to keep me busy this summer after it's rolling again. thanks for all the help guys, i've only been racing for a few years and this is my first time i've really been able to dive head first into a full blown project
#7
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Posts: 17,113
Likes: 0
Received 120 Likes
on
101 Posts
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
4 corner is even better. That way you can adjust the suspension to help equalize the weight. I need to get mine on a 4 corner scale some day.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 999
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
Transmission: TH350 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
I'm sure that all of the adjustability is overkill for as fast as i'm going to go for now, but i'm future-proofing so that the chassis and suspension will be able to handle whatever i throw at it.
#9
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: p'cola FL
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
i saved 16# going to a coilover and dont see a benefit at the current power level.
my eibach drag launch springs and wore out stock v8 struts did the job perfect.
BUT.... i modified some stuff and put some strange 10 ways on the front and rear and you can really dial it in.
my car feels like glass now with the shocks and springs setup right.
if what you have works, its a waste of money. if you want to save a few pounds and have some adjustability, coilovers aint bad.
for sure go with a k member/a arms and all the other stuff you can. there is where you can save some weight and get some room to work on the car.
my eibach drag launch springs and wore out stock v8 struts did the job perfect.
BUT.... i modified some stuff and put some strange 10 ways on the front and rear and you can really dial it in.
my car feels like glass now with the shocks and springs setup right.
if what you have works, its a waste of money. if you want to save a few pounds and have some adjustability, coilovers aint bad.
for sure go with a k member/a arms and all the other stuff you can. there is where you can save some weight and get some room to work on the car.
#10
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: currently Jacksonville NC
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
where the hell did you get strange 10 way fronts for an 82-92 fbody???? Strange nor QA1 makes them from what i've been told by them.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: p'cola FL
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
i had a machine shop shave my spindles down to fit a mustang fox body strut. nearly the same travel and almost a direct bolt in.
also had to thread and cut the piston, and use some 5/8 x 3/4 bushings in the strut tops instead of the factory metric pieces.
all works like a champ.
also had to thread and cut the piston, and use some 5/8 x 3/4 bushings in the strut tops instead of the factory metric pieces.
all works like a champ.
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: currently Jacksonville NC
Posts: 1,079
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 383 sbc, 88mm turbo a2w IC, CSU 750
Transmission: th-400 PTC 4000 stall
Axle/Gears: ford 9" 3.55 gear
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
i had a machine shop shave my spindles down to fit a mustang fox body strut. nearly the same travel and almost a direct bolt in.
also had to thread and cut the piston, and use some 5/8 x 3/4 bushings in the strut tops instead of the factory metric pieces.
all works like a champ.
also had to thread and cut the piston, and use some 5/8 x 3/4 bushings in the strut tops instead of the factory metric pieces.
all works like a champ.
#13
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: p'cola FL
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: To coil over or not to coil over....
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...tml?highlight=
its all up and running great.
car steers very well with the rack, and with the shocks, it rides like a caddy on the street.
its all up and running great.
car steers very well with the rack, and with the shocks, it rides like a caddy on the street.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedLeader289
Tech / General Engine
10
05-28-2019 01:47 PM
school boy
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
10-22-2015 11:47 AM
92rsvortec350
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
19
10-09-2015 09:39 AM