more nitrous issues yesterday

i quit

Link To Vid

 

Looks like some good leaving.. I'm not down w/ ebonics so I dont know what Nawz is, but it looks good except for the excessive amount of tailpipe smoke.

 

only one that left decent was that first pass, even tho it spun tire. i wish i had time to dial it in which is why the rich thing was the last thing on my mind at the time, was fighting have the noids turning on and off and not coming on at all, complete waste of time and money yesterday for sh*t i coulda figured out in the garage

 

You seem to have a lot of problems staging. 3 passes and it looks like you rolled through the beams on all 3 runs although I saw a green light on the second run.

Nitrous doesn't hurt the engine unless you're dumping in huge amounts of it that the engine can't take. Running lean will hurt the engine which is easy to do when running NOS. The engine sounded healthy enough to handle a couple of hundred HP shot so I would go with running lean caused the top end "pop". Running pig rich off the line but what's the fuel pressure at the top end?

I'll stick with making my HP with cubic inches or something with a more constant power adder like a blower.

 

huh, the staging thing i know about but wasn't really what im ramblin about

lean is mean, and it was way too rich for my taste. kinda beside the point tho, story is been runniing an NOS cheater kit for a while now. about as dialed in as i think it would go and it wasn't making anywhere near the power i thought it should be. 93 nitrous jet 91 fuel jet 5 1/4 fuel pressure , thing was nice and lean. decided to try out a friend of mines NX gimini twin to see how much more power i could make. first pass, had it dialed in rich with some 200 jets and were gonna read some plugs and go from there. First pass was the 2nd best 60 ever WITH wheel spin so was happy about that, but didn't mph for sh*t and figured it was because of how pig rich it was. Uped the jets on the nitrous side to lean it out some and put more through it and then the issues. Didn't come on till a little out of the hole, then back in the pits trying to bypass cr*p yada yada. And then that final pass if it came on at all (kinda looks like it mighta hit about 60ft out) it sure as sh*t didn't stay on for long so i just shut it off early. So yea, gonna try out my cheater noids on that to see if that fixes it, because we bypassed everything i could possibly bypass. As for a top end pop i donno what you're talkin about

 

Looks like a test & tune run, if that was staging on a qualify/$money..you'de be done.

good run except for the staging, maybe a transbrake would help, I like the wheels up leaving..

 

how much VOLTAGE is at the solenoids when on? those NITROUS (damn rice racer lol) solenoids use alot of amps and if you dont have a good supply to them, it wont work right. also alot of damadge is done on nitrous cars when run too rich (like those passes) from excess fuel igniting under the top ring land, lifting it and sticking the second ring, then oil gets in there and its over. It seems that there is more than one problem here, but unless both solenoids are open at the right time it hard to figure out the rest.

 

full charged battery, had 14 volts with the alt spinning at idle. The too rich thing i FULLY agree with you on, but like you said that's very hard to worry about when the noids are doing weird things...i donno i was under the impression that noids either open or they dont, not pulse like it was on a controller...imma try my noids out just to process eliminate the issue...guess well c. By passed the fuel pressure safety switch and oil pressure switch just to eliminate some problems but they weren't it. useing 2 relays, one for a transbrake interupt and the other to supply both noids. I honestly think it's some weird crap with those noids cuz i had no issues with my NOS ones...**** just didn't make enough power

 

well, I agree they would be suspect if that was all you did was swap kits, if all the line sizes are the same swapping to test shouldnt be a problem. now just think some nitrous pro-mods have 5 kits and timers , think how much fun that could be when it does not work lol.

 

yea, swapped noids and plate and did no other changes (except uped the fuel pressure) who needs more than 1 kit and controllers, that's for race cars

 

yup, I cant leave on 225 without risking flipping backwards lol, so I do run a progressive controller, but then again, its a race car lol

 

i need space

 

Check your WOT switch. If your noids are pulsing, you might be losing contact there.

Other than that, ohm the coils in the noids, and compare with the proper value (diagnostics sheet, maybe?), other than that, disconnect fuel and nitrous lines and see if the solenoid opens/closes properly without anything passing through.

I might of missed it, but were these used or new? If new, I'd be complaining at the manufacturer if you haven't even gotten to dial them in before they fail. >.<

 

switch works checked it

that proper value thing sounds like a very good idea but swapping them out for noids i know work seems easier


in this economy they're a buddy of mines

 

I figured they might be hand-me-downs. I know I couldn't afford new kit right now. :P Solenoids are really easy to rebuild. I think CHP had an article on how. It's a simple kit, and you just need to replace a few rubber/neoprene parts and check for scoring. Recommended rebuild time is whenever you've zeroed in on them as being faulty.

Edit:
Linkage:
http://www.mpsracing.com/Instruction...id_Rebuild.pdf

 

if you dont mind, post up a typical timeslip for a motor pass and one for a nitrous pass......

after that i would like to see what the motor's specs are, suspension stuff, and how much the raceweight is. i may be able to tell a little bit about whats goin on since our cars seem to be fairly similar.

 

i do lol, i gotta get my *** to work ill send u a PM l8r 2nite

 

Did you take the video down? Says it's no longer available.

 

works for me

 

Working for me now too... On that last run you had the same 1/8th mile ET and mph as me

 

 

x2. Yes it checked good. Swap it with a new one anyway. Been there done that.

Otherwise, I tend to run without a FPSS. Agreed it is not the smartest thing, but I have yet to have one work right and not put gremlins into the system.

Then check every last wires on the system. I go overkill on my wire sizes and have never had a solenoid pulsate, they stay on till I lift.

 

Am I the only one wondering what you are doing???

Maybe I am missing something, but a .93 nitrous jet should require a .102 fuel jet on a carbed cheater system, especially with 5.25 psi. You are leaning it way out, you shouldn't be swapping jets around to try to fix it either. What kind of fuel pump are you using?

 

If you read the entire post you'd know that i wasn't running the cheater kit on the car in those videos so i wasn't swapping jets around to fix what i believe to be a solenoid issue or some other electrical problem...ehh why am i explaining this.

What i am doing is trying to make some power, i realize i am running it lean that's the entire point . NOS recommended jetting is retarded to say the least but if you want to go off their charts suit yourself.

 

i bypassed my fpss and oil pressure switch (just so nobody sitting in the car decides to flip switchs without it running and pretend to be mr race car driver) in that final pass and was just using the WOT switch and same issues. I got rid of my window switch a long time ago (not that u asked). I'll have my noids on by tonight, might have to bother the neighbors tomorrow morning and and purge it through the motor a couple times to see if it's coming on. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Do you have any way to monitor your air/fuel ratio while you are "making power". I find it funny that you have not found a FPSS that works for you, probably because your fuel pressure is dropping. You have problems with basic things like staging your car, you purge your nitrous through the motor, you don't run the basic safety equipment that even most hardcore nitrous users run and you make up your own Jet sizes. I hope you are man enough to post when you put a hole in your piston or a connecting rod through your oil pan.

 

In his defense, he is not using a NOS plate so why should he use their jet chart....which is "conservative" and rich for safety, which is not the issue here. Changing the jets when the car is blowing black smoke is not all that out of line, most people dont want to run their fuel pressure lower than 5 psi and as rich as those passes were it would have to be lowered alot. square jetting is not an uncommon result on NOS plates by the way. bypassing components to locate a problem is not out of line either. Being that he changed the plate and solenoids it would be a logical place to start looking.

 

These passes are 92 square at 5.25 fuel pressure (measure with the car running and a 92 jet installed into the fuel pressure tool)and 12 degrees taken out. Only two full passes for my license. But I have also had like 15 1/8 mile passes on this tune.You can't even see a puff of smoke at all. I have a new tune I'll be trying this from a NOS Engineer I talk to. PM me if you want it, Just a question, are you using NGK -10 plugs?

I guess the video didn't load

http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=VID00000.flv

 

nice car...little bit of driving too!
By the way if I use NGK 3932-10 plugs I lose about 50 hp without nitrous, and over 100 on nitrous, so those plugs do not work in some applications even though they seem to be the most popular suggestion.

 

You should see the rest of the car.

 

As a matter of fact I do, they're called spark plugs . I find it funny that you keep pulling sh*t out of thin air, when did i say i didn't find a fpss that works for me (ontop of when did i say i was changing jets around to try and locate the problem)? It is clear that reading comprehension is far from one of your strong points. Please tell me what basic safety equipment I should be running that i'm not? Since a WOT switch and a FPSS (u must have missed that part) don't seem to be basic enough for you. Once more to repeat myself since you don't catch these things the first 3 times, i WAS also running a window switch however I didn't think it was a sufficient ground so i got rid of it. There are TONS of people who purge their nitrous through their motors, me generally not being one of them (hell you can see it in the video) however please also tell me how testing my nitrous purge solenoid would help me test my main nitrous solenoid . Like i said, you can run the recommended jet sizes and fuel pressure NOS puts out, no sweat off my *****.

In this order
1: Think
2: Type

You've been getting it backwards for some time now.

 

hey buddy how's it goin
actually my NOS system i didn't have any problems with, it was just either not making the power that i thought it should make or it was blowing through the converter. I put my buddys plate with his noids on leaving everything else the same to rule out one or the other. Problem is i wasn't able to rule out either because his nitrous kit was giving me issues. So basically i'm going to once again try his plate but use my NOS solenoids to see if it's a converter issue i'm having or just my NOS kit being a crappy design.

 

You asking me? i did actually, for the first time. I've been using autolite plugs up to that point. I think i'm going back with the autolites (for now anyways) just so i can keep a baseline.