ok heres the deal i came across a set of ce ladder bars #c2110 which get used with ce subframe connectors # c3111

i can get the bars for under 50 bucks



how well do these work? this is for a street/strip car wich is actually my daily driver

 

They won't work as good as the stock suspension platform and they'll kill stuff being used on a street car(ladder bars don't allow body roll, thus they twist themselves and everything they're attached to when street driven).

 

you'd be going 5 steps backwards compared to the torque arm setup just like shagwell said

 

realy ?? i wasnt aware te stock style setup would be better.
what would u guys recommend then

355 pair of 57mm turbos
swapin trans out to 2004r or th400 either will have a brake
273 rear gear
prolly run this thing on a 10inch dr or slick

 

several companies make good adjustable, shorter torque arms. Jegs brand, BMR extreme duty, etc. Relocation brackets on a 9", good LCA and panhard bar, a nice stiff sway bar in the back, maybe a BMR drag bar since it's on the street. Strange makes great 3" 1350 driveshafts that'll hold some power.

 

replace everything in the car with aftermarket bolt-in stuff. also shocks. i would also do a 9"/12 bolt if you havent already.

 

i have an s60 i can yank out of my other car
still have the stocker in it now

how about adjustable vs non adjustable lcas n panard bar

 

adjustable EVERYTHING. If you plan on putting lots of miles on it then I'd stay away from rod ends since they'll be clunking and loose after 5k of hard miles on them. You'd have to replace them all. The better the alignment you can get out of the car the more you'll enjoy it while driving with that kind of power.

 

lca relocation brackets and double adjustable shocks will make it happen. aftermarket tubular adjustable lca/panhard/torque arm will make it happen reliably and repeatable. since you're planning on street driving it often, i'd probably just put a set of quality replacment shocks....$500 DA shocks are abit overkill, lol

oh, and a stiff sidewall slick for those nights at the track.

 

yeah, stay the hell away from those things....you'll have a car that's ill handling and not work anywhere near as well as a good stock suspension car. these guys have solid advice, i'd probably go with a set of mustang 10 way adjustables on the rear, they're pretty reasonable.

 

Any recommendation WRT to that stiff sidewall slick? i'm debating something like that or one of the newer drag radials...

I think I'm stuck on shocks, the fact is that I'll see a lot of street miles, maybe even some autox, so I'm probably going to run koni yellows in the back, unless there's a DA shock that will work as well in a straight line as on the corners.

 

i just recently made a switch, and only have 3 runs on my new mt 28x10.5S's, but so far, they're far more consistent than the 28x9 hoosier non stiffs that i ws running. out of the three runs, i had two 1.56's and a 1.55 60' time. my hoosiers were all over the place and would swing .04 in the 60' on any given day.

 

IF you have the time to correctly dial in a suspension and your track prep is always set on kill the drag radials will be faster "mostly". I'm finding out I need to upgrade to dual adjustable rear shocks even on my slow setup to get these drag radials to be happy. BUT it sure beats never having to put air in them, compared to working 12 hour shifts and then having to remember to toss air in the slicks every 3rd night or jack the car in the air while it sits everytime

 

that's really surprising Matt... I don't know anyone else that would go MT slicks over hoosier, how old were the hoosiers when you ditched them? Are/were you running tubes in either?

Yea, that's the reason why I seem to always end up with drag radials... it's just so much less hassle the whole way around.

OK, that's 2 people with the DA rear shocks.... So that's one that I just don't understand (you won't hear that often). What exactly does the DA get you in a drag car? Under what conditions are they really an advantage?

 

looks like ill go with some bmr stuff and ive had really good luck with the ce 3 way drag shocks, hell my v6 turbo car goes constant 1.8 sixtys on 245 street tires with those lca and lcarbs so ill rolly try ut a set of those for now, i dont mind the harsh ride on the street

 

no tubes in either. the hoosiers were 2 months and 4 days old, and had 56 passes on them. they were showing cords. the M/T trailer was at the race i was at this weekend and was offering free mounting/balancing. i didn't have much of a choice. it was either buy those, or load up and go home. first round was less than 2 hours away when i discovered the tire's condition. i had been fighting with traction all weekend and couldn't figure out why. the tires were showing signs that i had wore the sidewalls out so i was going to switch them side to side. when i got the car off the ground i saw they were showing cords. the guys at M/T gave me a killer deal. i'm glad i tried them...they're amazing!

 

you must do some killer burnouts! lol i ran a pair of hoosiers for about 3 years before selling them. they still had 3/16 or so in the tread holes. they always worked great, but i never compared them back to back with a m/t. most common thing ive heard about the m/t is their sidewalls leak air like mad. my hoosiers sat for 4-5 months with 12psi in them.

 

I been running single adjustables on the rear of my car...Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable. Set on medium-stiff. 5 being stiffest, I ran 3 and 4.

On the street i ran 4. I have the same Tokico struts up front, 5 way adjustable. Drag I set them 1 or 2, the lightest setting. Street handling I put them on 4 or even 5 and the car is on rails!

I've been 1.41 60 foot ina nitrous mid 10 sec 383. Turbo car doesnt have a brake so it leaves soft, but its been 1.49 on same setup.

MT ET Street DOT bias ply slicks Passed inspection on these tires and holds air fairly well without tubes. Just smeared alittle RTV on the bead before installing the tires. Seems to work well.

 

double adjustables let you adjust compression and rebound separately, these will give you some control on how the tires are hit, and then how the suspension keeps the load on the tire

 

my koni spa-1's worked great out back until i went to the radial. they are single adjustable.

 

Just for note - some like em and some don't, but I don't run slicks w/o tubes. I made 3 passes in my car w/o them and said I'd never again run w/o tubes. Car was way less stable and keeping the pressure consistent was a pita.

 

i agree i used to run my 26x9 slicks tubless and holy crap it felt like the back tires were always on ice specially when drivin on them t and from the track on normal roads

though i never had air presure issues with mine when i ran the hoisiers