Is it best, for stoplight drag racing purposes, to shift through the gears on a 700-R4 manually of just to leave it in drive, and punch it. Any help would only add to my list of kills, even though it's a small list; it's a list nonetheless!

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It's all fun and games 'till someone looses an eye....then it's fun you can't see!!
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1987 Pontiac Trans Am
-305 cid motor
-700-R4 Transmission
-K&N Air Filter
-Flowmaster 40 series
Muffler
-Yokohama Tires
-GTA Rims
-3" Exhaust Tips
-180 degree Thermostat
-2.73 Posi Rear End
-JVC Head Unit w/ Kicker subs!
-And a COOL LOOKING Flowmaster sticker on the dash!
WOO-HOO!!
*Long live the F-Body!*

 

Well it is best to launch, if you can hook, at 2000 RPMs and hold on. Its an automatic so you don't need to shift it and just because you move the stick up to the next gear doesn't mean it will shift either. Just adjust your kick down cable to the point where you car runs the fastest. TPIS gain .3 sec in the 1/4 from playing with the kick down and setting it where it ran best, but It was an unbelievable 4200 rpm shift point. I tried this when my car was basically stock, and it sucked for everyday driving, but on the track it did help.

 

Kyle F comes through with a retarded answer once again, Ive seen him on the V6 boards posting crap like this. Shift your car manually at the RPM necessary to achive the best times. Youll feel it when your engine isnt making any power anymore....shift a couple hundred RPM under that. Using the TV cable to is a butcher way to make your car shift high. It makes the car hard to drive on the street and is bad for gas mileage. If you are over the factory shift point and are shifting your car manually, as soon as you shift into the next gear your car will shift (contrary to Kyle Fs theory). The best way to launch a car like that is off the foot brake at the highest RPM you can hold without breaking the tires loose.

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91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 226/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, ****ty stock converter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
13.24@104

 

I gotta agree with Vortecfcar, manual shifting is the only way to go. My RS is a TBI engine with the sh**tty peanut cam, but if I wind it up to about 5100-5200 in first, the car doesn't fall on its head in second gear like it does at the "automatically shifted" 4500 rpm. Now, granted, the peanut cam is dead at 5200 rpm, but because it is not dropping off so much in second, it is faster, and I have proved that a track.

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82 Z28 350, Ported #882 Heads, Performer RPM cam and intake, hedman headers,650 Demon carb,
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET: 12.52@107.2
Future plans: Dart headed, Roller cammed 383 in early '01


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock
New Best ET: 14.91 @92.9
Bassett Racing
Mid Atlantic F Body -82 Z28 Page

 

I used to shift at 4900-5000 rpm on the 1-2 shift, then 4700-4800 going into 3rd, but that was before headers and gears. Now I shift into 2nd at 5000-5100 rpm and into 3rd at 4900-5000 rpm with the headers and 3.42 gears. Since the car is accelerating quite a bit faster going into 3rd (low 60's mph instead of low 80's with the 2.73 gears), the engine is more willing to wind out 2nd gear. Oh, I have a 305 with the peanut cam too (for now, until I get the 350 I have rebuilt and dropped in).

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4