Beeman

Been running a stock cheapo radiator with a factory single fan. Has worked pretty good for years but it's time to upgrade. I've had plastic tank leak issues and the fan is almost 30 years old so I've gotten my money's worth.
What radiator and fans are you running? I've looked at some of the ebay radiator/fan combos. Also what upper radiator hose? I've got a small block with a Team G intake.

1gary

The shroud is almost more important than the fan.The biggest bang for your buck is the Ford crown Vic 14" fan,shroud,and relays right out of a pick and pull.The aftermarket stuff is hard pressed to match the cfm of that.Strictly race car use is water only mainly because once anti-freeze gets hot,it stays hot longer than water.

Beeman

I heard the Taurus setup was a good one and there seems to be plenty at the pull a parts. Unfortunately pull a part is over an hour away and I haven't had the time to get there.
I've always run distilled water with water pump lube or water wetter. Just picked up a bottle of Hyperlube coolant additive to try. I've never run antifreeze at all.
Radiator is definitely going to be replaced. Not sure if the ebay Champions and such are any good. Griffin and BeKool are a little pricey.

1gary

We have tried both and the crown vic actually works better.

Shagwell

For note, anti-freeze in general is HIGHLY frowned upon at the track. Should you ever push out some coolant for any reason anti-freeze is a PITA to get clean up properly off the track surface.

I've had good luck with the cheaper jegs/summit brand aluminum rads on street cars; a decent double pass is really a good investment. - I agree on the factory electric fan take-outs or the black-magic with the full shroud. A good large shroud makes a huge difference in the fan's efficiency.

For drag race only apps, unless you have to "round-robin" making passes ditch everything. - Even on the old gas/gas n2o combo @ just a touch under 15:1 compression; no cooling system, just water in the block/heads, we pull to the line around 100, stage around 130 & go through the traps around 180-190. - Pull up @ higher temp on the methanol combo, don't build quite as much heat during the run & actually drop temp after I lift (lol).

TB2

iTrader: (1)

I run an Afco double pass rad with an lt1 dual fan/shroud setup. Minimal fab work involved. Works great in any heat.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

stock LT1 fans/radiator.

1gary

Is the block filled on any of those deals??.

built91Z28

What works better than even the Crown Vic fan is a 96 Lincoln Mark VIII fan. The blade design is a little different than the Crown Vic and it moves a ton of air. This is the fan I'm using. The shroud is also very easy to modify and mount. I have this behind a big aluminum Summit radiator. I live in Central Florida and can idle around in rush hour traffic on the hottest day and never see temps over 200 with a 180 thermostat.

Shagwell

The blower motor is filled level to the deck & doesn't even have water in the heads. - The n2o combo is a Merlin III block and has no filler; we run water in the block/heads/intake and have quick-connects that we can hook up to a pump & tank at the trailer if needed between rounds. We've never had the need to use it though.

blackbmagic

I run a 180º thermostat, 3 core champion aluminum radiator, and the stock 85 IROC electric fan. I dont creep past 180º even on a 90º day in traffic.

I used to have so many problems when I first swapped the motor. running at 220-230º over flowing at lights ect. So I changed the thermostat to a 180º and used water wetter with my coolant. Dropped about 10º and was able to at least drive around without worrying so much.

I dropped in the new radiator and changed my coolant mix to 75% water to 25% coolant and water wetter. I now can not get the needle past 180º