What's your guy's opinions on SSM lift bars? I'm gathering parts for bracket car and I have a chance to buy a pair and thought it might be a easy way to install a 9". What's a un-used set worth?
While I'm asking....anything wrong with Hotchkis sub frame connectors? Thanks.

if your getting a set of SSM lift bars..for a 3rd gen camaro.
you dont need Hotchkis sub frame connectors.

as the SSM lift bars will come with a set.

is it's just the lift bars with no other parts. then it's not the full set.

you can make all the other parts. do you have pics.

i did biss with ssm back in the 90's. and installed a few sets.
they would not sell just the lift bars..without all the other parts to go with them.
unless you had a full set to start with. just so ya know..

im also looking for a 2nd set just the bars.. when sold by SSM i Paid $150 (just for the bars) as i had a full set. and the 2nd set was for the new 9" ford.
todays price? what all do they have?

The guy listed both but when I called and he was digging around, he could only come up with the cross bar and lift bars and the install parts, no sub connectors. They should mount to other sfc, right? I'm thinking $100?

are you buyn or selling...?
im always looking for a 2nd set of bar$

cash is king

Buying...thinking about it anyway. Reading about everybody's setup makes me wonder. It seems strange to add the ssm bars and leave the stock lca's in. It seems a bit expensive to go all the spohn stuff.

If you install the SSM lift bars you do not need to leave the stock LCAs in nor do you need to keep the rear sway bar.

this as been asked over and over..
so ill post a shot of the install info from SSM..
notice how they underline it...
even the ladderbar install info from lakewoods say the same.
for the ladderbar install on other body types.
the lift bars replace the TQ. not the LCA's..
thats why SSM leavs the holes for them in the SFC's..just sayn.



and yes i have full copys of this info..if you need a copy.

the full set of parts come with
lift bars/ladderbars w/ top straps (other small parts)
SFC's
rear crossmember and end brackest to weld to SFC's
drivshaft safty loop.
kit sold new for $360

light wt lca in place above
this shot shows the new set of Lift bars only tacked in place on the new 9" this install was done back in 2002/03 before car was put away for 10+ years.
the 1st set was installed on the 7.5.rear end. you will never ever get the 7.5 with 4.10 grears to hold up to any power... the guys who are. getting them to live are not running 10's or even 11's i have every aftermarket part they made/make.. it's the ring gears that brake every time...sorry guys..it's true!

oh boy, here we go again

is the front of the ssm bars slotted? if so, that would work ok in conjunction with the lca's. would be a dual torque arm setup. if not slotted everything will bind, especially if using rod ended stuff instead of rubber bushings. if the ssm bars arent slotted, i cant really see how they would work with the lca's in place.
i wonder if the instructions meant to leave the lca's in place until the ssm bars were tacked into place? (to keep everything straight) once the lca's were removed this would just be a non adjustable ladderbar suspension.

BINGO

You leave the LCA bars in place while installing the sub-frame connectors.

The SSM bars are secured to their own cross-member with shoulder bolt /bushing connection that have grease fittings. There is no adjustment, you set the pinion angle, for street / race or somewhere in between, weld the bars to the axle tubes and done.

If memory serves me right I set mine at -5 degrees.. (-4 was for street, -6 for race only) it's on those same instructions artic has.. I have mine at home too.

BTW I also spoke wit Louie at SSM years ago when we were installing the kit not to mention the author of the "how to 11 sec F-body" book to confirm it was OK to delete the LCAs... to each his own I guess.

In order to completely change the IC of the rear end geometry & for the SSM bars to function as intended you have to remove the LCAs otherwise you are not using the bars to their fullest potential. Common-sence would tell you that..

not to mention the front wheels of my car launching straight & catching some air is all the proof I need that the car is hooking just fine without the added weight of the LCAs, rear sway bar & torque arm.

just posting what there install instructions say.and what I was told bye SSM..

Even one of the car mags did a install of the ssm on a 88 camaro. They even talked about it..

to each his own.

Sorry I started this again. I tend to believe that the lca's only stay temporarily, as others do. I'm going to get them.... I like simple. I'm hoping the instructions are there but if not I'll be pm'ing someone. It seems like with a bit of fabrication, you could add a couple holes in the x-member mount for a small amount of pinion adjustment?? Although that would change other things also. Better just K.I.S.S.! Anyway....thanks again.

What I like about the ssm setup is you could toss any 8.8 or 12 bolt rear in easily as long as its near the correct width. It should work good at the track too.

Well, I got them. They came with the sfc's also. The search for a decent rearend continues.

Thanks FRMULA88, for the instruction sheets.

I've had the complete SSM kit on my car for about 15 years now. No you don't need the LCA's they are just to hold the rear in the correct position during installation, besides you won't have any LCA mounts on a 9". My 9" is from a 71 torino factory width. If you're just drag racing you can eliminate the panhard bar and use a diagonal bar.

What is the stock width, flange to flange?

This guy runs SSM bars and has a 4 speed. I'd say they work.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...nchAxles.shtml
Here's a list of differential widths and other info.
My car with SSM bars, no LCAs, and a diagonal link which replaced the panhard bar works great. I had factory coils and shocks but replaced them with a coilover setup when i removed the panhard bar. It's been a best of 1.42 60' with the wheels up on 10.5 tires 6.73 in the 1/8th and it could handle more with no problem.

I mean stock width of a 3rd gen. Good info on the 9s tho, thanks.

no control arms on mine either..i use a 12bolt from a chevelle,after it was in I just bought the correct offset wheels..mine is mini tubbed and I still use the panhard bars as I have 4inch exhaust under the car.

and it runs in the 8's.

Another thing to do is change the lower mount on your shock absorbers. The way factory shocks mount they actually bind as the pivot is facing the wrong way on the bottom mount. I used lower shock brackets for a Fox body Mustang which turn the lower shock mount 90* allowing movement. Also used a panhard bar with heim joints.

guess that pretty much sums it up

Yes they work....without a doubt...