Prognosis is critical, my car has gradually declined to non-op status. I'm pretty sure the timing has slipped, she wont even start now, I sprayed some start fluid in just to make sure it wasnt a fuel issue.

The distributor is tight, all hoses and wires in place.

I drained the gas and replaced it, changed out the fuel filter too.

This is bogus for a 58k miler, looks like I have my wish of not putting any more miles on it.

Don

 

Don't worry too much Don. Everytime something like that happened to one of my Camaros, it turned out to be something real minor. The rotor on the distributor of my '83 Z broke loose of the mounting screws somehow. Damn car would crank all day but not start. $10 fix. When the fuel pump went out on my '85 Z, it was a cast iron bitch to drop the tank and replace, but I did it myself fairly cheaply. Unless there are broken internal engine parts, our cars are usually pretty easy to fix. What are the symptoms?

 

Why don't you pull off the timing cover and see if your gears are messed up

 

Damn, it looks like it's time for that 383 you've always wanted.

Brad...

 

That sucks dude, hopefully its nothing major.

Jess

 

I'm gonna go with Freak on this one and go with Distributor problem... Unless it doesn't turn over at all...

Mine did that to me, was the cap and rotor...so I ended up replacing it with a pertronix rebuild kit...

But then again you don't have the kind of distributor I do because you've got TPI...so umm... I dunno if pertronix makes a kit for those...

Theres also a possibility that its the module in your distributor that has gone bad... that will give the same symptoms more or less...

Start cheap though, get a new cap and rotor ... if that doesn't cure it, delve deeper into it and get a new module n whatnot

BTW, my HEI kit was $120 for Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, Vacuum advance canister, new counterweights, springs, wiring, etc... pretty sure you can find something similar hehe

 

Good advice guys,

The car went from an occsional stutter to running like doo doo to not even starting.
I pulled the cap last night looking for a bad rotor, it looked good and no cracks in cap. I will test my coil and modulator next.
We put a mirror under the plenum to observe EGR valve operation and it wont move but has vacuum. I think this is a secondary issue

Thanks,
Don

 

Don,

First thing first, check the plugs. Next, pull on of the distributor wires off, plug in a good spark plug and ground it to the intake manifold. Have someone turn the car over and look for a spark. I know you know where i'm leading but i just want to be clear that this is a good way to check the distributor/coil. Check the plugs for a burn pattern, color and if they smell like fuel after you attmpt to start it too. That is a good starting point. If you need to feel free to give me a call. Also, My Corvette had similar symptoms and it was the modulator for the distribuor. goooood luck!

 

Are you sure it is in the ignition? Can you hear your fuel pump turn on for 2 seconds when you turn on your key but don't start the engine?

On TPI cars, if the coil goes bad, you will not get any spark BTW. A scan tool can help in seeing what is and is not happening when you are cranking the motor.

 

Update:

While at work my wife replaced the coil, cap, modulator, and rotor.

Still wont run

I checked spark and it sparks fine.

Is it possible to knock something loose in the gas tank? I rammed a garden hose trying to syphon the gas, it wouldnt fit so we got some fuel line.

We will focus on fuel now in our next installment of this otherwise bogus saga.

Don
Cascade Crew
Non-Op branch


------------------
1985 T/A WS6
Recaro Seats
58,000 smiles
TPI T-Tops
3:27 Posi
My Ride

 

well atleast you'll have better spark than before

Umm... might be a long shot... Fuel Filter?


See guys this is why I don't like TPI as much as carb...

 

Hi Demon
Wifey sez TPI is the best you can get !

The first thing I changed was the filter D.

I spewed a gob of starter fluid down the plenum, you think that would light a fire, but noooooooo

I mumbled something about putting it up for auction on EBay, then she flashed me a code 34, well at least she is talking now.

Wonder if I could get more if I part it out ?
lol

Don

 

well umm...

you're fooked then

 

spark fuel and air.... It may be the modulator inside of the distributor. My vett ran like crap and sounded like i had a plug wire crossed. Then it started to idle worse and worse. Replaced the part, ran like a champ. However, i would make sure you are getting fuel first before you start throwing parts into it!

 

Yeah, when my fuel pump went out, the tell-tale sign was not being able to hear it when the key was in the on position. Check for this. Craig has a good point also. Once my '83 Z wouldn't run at all cause the plugs were extremely fouled. EGR, or any emissions devices, should not keep the engine from running. Oh, check your oxygen sensor.

Good luck!

------------------
'91 Camaro RS - dark red metallic - '91-'92 Z28 wheels - leather - all power options (except power seat) - t-tops - Clarion head unit - Pioneer 4way 200watt 6x9s - Rockford Fosgate Punch amp and 2 Fosgate 12" subs - Edelbrock open element w/ K&N filter - Random Technology highflow cat - some free mods, more coming soon...

 

Dude don't sell it!!!!

 

Thanks guys, I will keep plugin away, Freak your right about the plugs, the last time it ran it was super rich. craiger, the guy at the counter said my modulator was bad and my book didnt have any info on testing it (it was funny how the guy behind the counter did have a way to test it,lol) What is weird is that it should run a little bit on starter fluid, it didnt even pop.

Don

 

Yep, I'm betting its the plugs. After running rich for a while, the plugs wil get more and more fouled until they won't fire at all. You were probably losing one piston at a time, causing it to run progressivly worse, until you had nothing. Changing plugs in these cars can be a nightmare, good luck!1

 

My RS 3.1L(probably totally different) started running super crappy all of a sudden even though I had recently replaced all of the usual stuff, plugs, cap, rotor. I finally replaced the plug wires with Accell 8mm and it ran like a champ. Have you checked the resistance of your plug wires? Is it possible to get spark, but not enough to run your engine?

 

Rez, I have spark, I grabbed a plug off of my bench and tested it, I will check the wires anyway though even though they are fairly new.
Trying to start a car with gas comming in and no spark is what did me, should have replaced the modulator sooner.

Im thinking Titanium plugs now

Man I hope this is it

Thanks for the input

Don