JohnnyIROC-Z

Anyone want a 350 4 bolt main out of a 1979 GMC Sierra? Ran nice and strong when I removed it from my 1984 SC. Will include heads that aren't cracked (Just need to rebuild 'em) only thing it won't have is intake manifold. the one out of it was cracked (Cause I'm an idiot and broke the head and intake. ) uhh.. that's about it. I wanna get 400 so I can buy a newer block (87+) and start my 383 stroker build up! it'll be sweet after it's done I'll put a 3 Stage Intercooled Procharger on there and have it run to a T-56 with all kidns of suspension goodies. then it'll allll go in my 87 IROC.

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1987 IROC-Z T-Tops wait... GUTTED MAF!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Actually, you might prefer using the block you have now. Not only is it a 4-bolt main but it's internally balanced. Also the block is seasoned and the core has shifted about as much as it's going to go. You have that sucker properly machined and you'll have an engine that would last for many miles beyond a new GM "ZZ4" block.

Just an idea.

AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

I think the reasoning behind it is the T-56 plugs basically directly into the single piece rear mains block, while it needs a custom flywheel (I think) or something custom to work w/ the older blocks, aka it a PITA to stick it w/ the older block.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't get it.... the flywheel covers up the rear main seal. The tranny doesn't know what's behind the flywheel. How would anything be different?

87RS402

The bolt pattern is different between the 1 and 2 piece rears and for some unknown reason the T-56 flywheel is different from the T-5 wheel. The only way to get a correct flywheel for a 2 piece rear main and a T-56 clutch is from Centerforce. Retail $300 approx.

Even still John, your better off building up the 4-bolt main and getting the aftermarket flywheel. Your going to have to go aftermarket for the flywheel anyway you look at it. The 383 damper and flywheel are externally balanced (because it's a 400 crank) so you can't use a stock one's unless you pay the $, and alot of them, for an internally balanced stroker crank.

If that doesn't make sense I can explain it better.

JohnnyIROC-Z

Actually I have no problem with the t-56 and bolt patterns. my thinking is more because I would like to stay somewhat street legal. Federal law states you cannot put an older engine in a newer car. must be same year as vehicle or newer. but regardless. I was thinking more with the roller lifters, retainers, and lifter guides. closer to the internals of my 87. but you really think I should build up on the block I have now?

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1987 IROC-Z T-Tops wait... GUTTED MAF!

JohnnyIROC-Z

nevermind!

[This message has been edited by JohnnyIROC-Z (edited November 01, 2001).]

87RS402

If that's the true Jon, Lance, myself and about half of the rest of the crew are going to have a nice vacation in Club Fed. Still I doubt anyone will ever check.

You really should stick with the 4-bolt. Even if you purchased retrofit roller lifters to keep the roller cam it's still at least $1000 cheaper to build a 383 from the block you have.

F-BOY

how much ya want for it

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I think that law applies to engine swaps from other cars or purchasing complete engine assemblies from GM. You're sunk no matter what if you build the engine from any GM performance parts block.

Frankly, I don't think you have to worry about someone being so talented they know whether or not your engine meets the requirement. If it's got the emissions gear on it you're going to be safe.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

He said $400. But you might want to save some for reading glasses.

JohnnyIROC-Z

lol, okay okay! you've convinced me I'll keep the thing. ALthough I'd be looking to sell the internals because THey're just gunna go in the trash. And your right. the only thing I have with them being able to tell is 79 and prior the oil dipsticks on the drivers side and 80+ it's on the pass. If they're smart that's an easy indication.
anyways I guess let's turn this into a suggestion thread now. 383 stroker with low compression for a procharger with 3 staged intercooler running around 20 psi boost (Not to worry I will have the necessary internals) what type cam? Should I go with AFR Or Trick Flow heads? I'm not to good with cams and heads. TPIS Bigmouth intake since I'm keeping TPI? so many questions so little time... well. actually lots of time. lol

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1987 IROC-Z T-Tops wait... GUTTED MAF!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Without looking at the supercharger you're talking about I would say if it makes 20 psi of boost then it's not what you want. That's likely a race only setup. It's also grossly mismatched with a factory style TPI system not to mention you would go through an engine with every oil change. In order to have an engine to stand up to the potential of a 20 psi supercharger system you would need internals not compatible with street driving. The engine would cost on the order of $30K.

I would suggest you approach this from a 'systems' standpoint. First, specify your goals... what do you want to accomplish? Next identify all requirements and constraints. Requirements are restrictions you choose to impose on the design. In other words, it must do this and that and these and those and not break a specific budget. Constraints are requirements that are out of your control and you have to meet them (non-negotiable if you will). This would be stuff like Federal and local laws, safety rules at the track, etc. Then do some research to find alternatives that will allow you to meet your goals while complying with the requirements and constraints. When you're done doing research it's time to make a little table showing yourself how well each alternative meets all goals, requirements, and constraints. The best choice will pop out clear as day.

The advantage of approaching it this way is you are likely to not make any mistakes AND you'll only buy what you need. You'll save money and end up with exactly what you wanted in the first place.

By the way, this approach is really what would be called 'systems engineering' in the real world. It's used all the time by design engineers. In a sense you're the design engineer for your project.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

... and no I did not do this for my car But I think it will really guide you in your path.

Go and do well young Jedi.

F-BOY

Yeah my bad... I was thinking something different. taking donations for those glasses though

Blue502

Actually, my 502 is newer than my car so no prob there, plus since I am special interest plated I am exempt from all of those laws anyway. BTW, have a nice vacation

JohnnyIROC-Z

Okay. Just to be a bit clearer on some of the stuff I was looking at here's the stroker kit I was gunna get

http://www.speedomotive.com/383Forged.htm

with the TRW Forged turbo pistons, the sealed power rings, and I'm unsure on external balancing. Can't tell if it means if I DON'T opt for external balancing then it'll be internal balanced, any ideas? Thta part somewhat confuses me. I guess I'll have to call them. Since I don't know a whole lot about heads and cams I suppose I'll have to inquire here, I want fast, maybe somewhere in the order of low 13's. I honestly don't know what it would take to accomplish this. As far as stock TPI system I was only planning on using the harnesses and ECU. New injectors maybe a bigmouth manifold plenum, runners the whole 9. fuel pump ya know. The procharger I was planning is this one:
http://www.procharger.com/automotive.html
all the way at the bottom with the 88-92 Camaro, the D-1. 15-20 psi 3 stage intercooler, hell according to ati you could bolt it up to a stock engine and it'd be perfectly safe for the thing. anyhow that's what I'm thinking of going with for internals. Good idea? bad IDea? Feedback por favor. as far as the graph I suppose I'd need help with it, at least with what things meet req and constraints. I want it to be street/strip, I'm not to worried about emissions because I can simply get a P.O box in woodland where there is no emissions and register the car there. okay suggestions? flames for being stupid? Bring 'em on.

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1987 IROC-Z T-Tops wait... GUTTED MAF!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Low 13s can easily be accomplished without the aid or expense of the supercharger. A ZZ4 will run mid 13s on street tires. It's less of an issue of building killer power and more of an issue of setting up the car to work well with the power band you've got. What I would recommend you do it go get a book on the general ideas behind building a car. There is some good info in Lingenfelter's book on the small block Chevy. There's different books out there but Lingenfelter touches on some issues that nobody else seems to address. I think it's a good place to start.

JohnnyIROC-Z

sounds like an idea. I think I'll look at B&N or Some of the other book stores around. What do you think the supercharger will throw me into? Maybe 12's? high 11's? if a ZZ4 can do it a 383 stroker matched up right and a supercharger can get way past it. am I right or am I right?

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1987 IROC-Z T-Tops wait... GUTTED MAF!