Were any bearings replaced by them?

Why was the price lower than the original quote? Because he didn't have to replace the front bearing?

 

Ace Trans said all the bearings were ok, and yes, the original quote was higher because it included bearing replacements.

It really bothers me that Ace Trans willfully ignored the grinding noise as being too much work to find and fix, and then tried to pass it off as being normal for new gears ... or the result of a "high spot" on the gears. That is so lame... Enough so that I believe it's possible that the only work that was done was to pop the cover, check the clearances and change the fluids.

The noise has been getting louder as we've driven the car around town to various garages, so when the parts start coming out in a couple of days, metal damage should make it easier to identify what the problem is.

 

At Schofield salvage yard I found a 92 RS v8 700R4 with a Moraine [iron caliper] disk rear end and put a bid in to buy it for a bit more than $400. The car is drivable, but needs work as it has been sitting for more than a year. If I get it, I'll be parting it out pretty cheap. The roof is rusted pretty badly, but the body looks straight. Interior is the salt/pepper gray and in fairly decent condition.

If I don't get it, anyone have a list of "bolt-in" disk brake rears that will fit the 92?

Thanks,
Ed

 

Hi guys,

We took apart the '92 rear today and pulled the axles. There are metal shavings on the diff cover magnet, so it's about guaranteed a diff bearing itself to death. Given all the problems we've had installing the pinions, I'm betting it's in there. If anyone wants to poke around in there, come on over.

The Richmond 3:42 gears look clean, no chips or scratch marks, so I'll most likely not keep them around. Next rear upgrade will be a 12-bolt or 9-inch anyway...

I have a kind offer of a "loaner" 10-bolt rear to use so the car can be put back on the road while I continue to look for another permanent rear, but it has drums, not disks. It's been said that the 90-92 10-bolt PBR rear disk brake mounting flanges will bolt-up to the 10-bolt drum brake axle flange with some simple cutting, but I can't find any documentation saying this is so -- can anyone verify this mod?

Here's what a TGO search turned-up...

---------------------------------------------------------------
Converting a 10-bolt drum rear to 10-bolt disc

Q - I have an opportunity to buy a drum brake rear with 3.73 gears for my car. But my car has disc brakes. How hard would it be to convert the drum brake to disc? Can I use my disk brake system without a problem, also can I use the same axles from the drum to disc.

A - Your axles will fit, the problem is the housing has a different backing plate. To swap the drums to disks will require adapter brackets to mount the calipers to the backing plate of the drums. I haven't found nor heard of a company that makes the, so unless you have a welder and are good at fabrication you may want to keep the drums. If you keep the drums all you will need is either A wilwood adjustable prop valve or a drum master cylinder/prop valve. The wilwood would probably be cheaper and for sure quicker. You would also need the drum parking brake cables. If the rear doesn't come with drums and you've decided on drums, you'll need all the hardware. It'd be best to grab this from a junkyard as there are many "non servicable" parts and GM would charge you a lot of money to get them.
---------------------------------------------------------------

BTW -- still looking to buy a complete 3rd gen 87-92 10-bolt disk rear or 4th Gen 93-97 disk brake rear.

 

Update -- still searching for replacement 10-bolt disk rear, called all the salvage yards on island, but no 3rd or 4th Gen disk rears at this time. Unless one turns up from someone's private stash, it doesn't look like a stock replacement will be forthcoming.

Thanks to the generosity of Crazy Hawaiian, we have an offer to borrow one of his drum brake rears as a loaner, to get the '92 back on the road, until a disk rear shows up or he needs the rear for his race car.

Before doing this however, I need input about the high-end option -- that of replacement with a new 9-inch or 12-bolt rear. Costing 2-3K, they're expensive, but bulletproof and only has to be done once. Spohn, one of the TGO sponsors, sells Moser 9-inch and 12-bolt rears for 3rd Gens.

According to the sales literature, the rears are "bolt-in" and can be received setup to use the stock 91-92 Camaro PBR rear calipers.

Which one would you choose, and why?

 

IIRC,

The 9 inch has more drag than the 12 bolt as caused by the positioning of the pinion to the ring gear.

The 12 bolt however, has a smaller diameter pinion shaft when compared to the 9 inch

Both have their goods and bads. I guess it comes down to personal preference.

I would look at the potetial problems people have had with aftermarket rears for f bodies, and see if you are willing to deal with a potential problem from "long distance" if need be.

Shipping for a rear axle, and the potential need of having to return ship such an item if warranty claims arise, make the decision more difficult.

I dont see the need for a rear that is "bulletproof" unless you truly plan on flogging it every week at the dragstrip...

Take Shawns 10 bolts for example. Drifting is hell on parts, and you would think he would destroy them on a per-session basis at DS, but he doesnt... and he stilll drives the same car on the street as well. His needs for spares are for peace of mind...

 

Yep, the pros and cons ... I like the 9-inch carrier and how it enables gear changes quickly with a pumpkin swap -- I hate the pinion offset causing bad vibes for some people. I like the 12-bolt size and less weight -- I hate the "final refitting" everyone seems to go through. I really like the concept of having a rear that is near impossible to break unless pounding faster than 10's in the quarter. But most of all, I hate the prospect of trying to have such fine machinery serviced on Oahu -- and the logistics of shipping to the mainland for support is umm, insane.

So far my track record on having a simple 10-bolt overhauled here is a losing 2-2 with $700 wasted. I'd hate to think of the same misfortunes happening to a $2,500 rear end.

Well, at least I got lucky with bidding for the '92 RS V8, automatic, 4 wheel disk Camaro at the Schofield salvage yard, as I was able to obtain it for $450. I'll have it towed to my house and register it as "Op" with DMV so I don't have to worry about inspections, etc, then I can eventually sell it cheap. Nice looking 25th Anniversary edition, body is straight, interior OK.

The plan now is to swap the RS rear into the Z-28, bolt on the PBR backing plates and get it on the road. Then get a drum 10-bolt rear for the RS, sell it cheap. The leftover part is the '92 Z-28 rear with posi and Richmond 3:42's and it's a toss-up what to do with it. Think anyone might be interested in a parts rear with a bad bearing?

Sheesh this has been a hassle ... I hope the RS rear doesn't clunk, whine or howl...

 

So far I've been flogging the 9 bolts and they're holding up good. Revlimit has been flogging a 10 bolt with an aftermarket posi, holding up good. I think stock is good enough unless you drag race with slicks.

 

Yeah, I agree. 9-bolts are reputed solid up to about 400 hp and some guys are running BBC's on them with success. 10-bolts have a problem with high horsepower causing the pinion to "walk" up the ring gear, but that shouldn't happen until launching hard with slicks ... but still, some of the 4th Gen racers are doing 11's with the same rear, at least for a while.

I guess I'll have to wait on the 9-inch or 12-bolt until I can get settled in Arizona, sigh. Heh, nothing like putting a car in a transporter and hauling it down the highway to a shop!

Are the drag race guys setting up their own ring and pinions, or is there a race shop on island that specializes in precision work?

 

You don't need a 9" or 12-bolt unless the car lives at the track. You can't really break a 10-bolt on the street, especially with stock or close to stock engines... unless someone over-torques the damn pinion nut....

Any good rear company will tell you the same thing, but people love them big rears.

I would take a 9" over a 12-bolt any day of the week after working on them. The 9" uses a straddled pinion. Weight be damned when it comes to top strength and ease of use. If weight or drag is a problem, stick to the 7-5/8" 10-bolt.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=137310

I still can't believe they couldn't fix the problem. I don't remember the sound exactly anymore, but I've been thinking it could be the posi....

Hopefully that RS rear will be the ticket. Did you return those extra parts? Or find out why you were sent the wrong bearings with the installation kit?

Scott

 

 

If this isn't a classic example of a Comedy of Errors, I don't know what is. I sure hope the '92 RS has the parts you want. What does Op mean for the DMV? Is that when you turn in the plates and say that you're not driving it anywhere? I had flirted with the idea for the TTA, to save money on registration and stuff, but chose not to - it's too fun to drive, and cars are supposed to be driven!

With any luck, this will work out for you, and we'll have another third-gen on the road. Well, two really, yours and the RS...

 

Ed, you gotta stop blamin' yourself for that pinion seal!

I don't see how a shop could screw <i>that</i> up. They're lucky you aren't around to get a whole new rear from them.

If you have that posi lying around I can check it out assuming you don't need it put back together... otherwise I don't want to touch it. Those little springs **** me off, hehe.

Scott

 

The 92 RS is the rear-end donor car that may be resold later on, as it's pretty clean, is V8, AC, etc. The Camaros on the road will be the 92 Z28 and 87 IROCZ 92 clone [87 dressed-up as 92].

 

Well, this comes a little late as always...doesn't say if it has disc in the rear, either.

http://www.islandpreviews.com/main/m...hp?ad_id=31980

stew

 

Here's a quick progress report -- drove the 92 RS into my side carport to drop the rear and got everything disconnected over the weekend. It surprised me how nice that 305 TBI started and ran with a fresh battery, would hate to see the car junked after I'm done pulling the rear.

Do you guys think the car would have any value as-is, like around a couple hundred? It has lots of factory options, including split rear seats and 16-inch wheels...

If not, what's the best way to dispose of it?

 

Hopefully you will find a home for most of the parts, I'm sure I could use a few if you decide to part it out. But if you need to get it out of there you can turn it over to the city for free. I did this about 6 months ago. You just take the paperwork you have to satellite city hall turn it over and ask them to tow it away. Took about a month for them to show up but it is better than paying a junkyard to take it. All they ask is that two tires on the same axle hold air, other than that condition does not matter.

 

Ed, shoot me a price...

I may be interested for the wheels, but will buy whole if I need to..

Let me know.

Robert

 

Yup, part it out before junking it. Does it happen to have a grey interior? I'm looking for a grey drivers side seat w/ power adjustments and no rips. The drivers seat in the B4C got ripped from what appeared to be a gun holster or something.

 

Is that a salvage titled car? if not my friend would want to buy it since he got rear ended in his 89 RS, and could swap over whats missing.

 

I need a trunk latch if you part it out.

 

HawaiianRS -- if you need to get it out of there you can turn it over to the city for free, take the paperwork to satellite city hall turn it over and ask them to tow it away, takes about a month for them to show up but it is better than paying a junkyard to take it. It requires that two tires on the same axle hold air, other than that condition does not matter.

[Duck sez: Great advice, thanks!]

HI85WH1 -- I may be interested for the wheels, but will buy whole if I need to. Let me know, Robert

[Duck sez: the wheels look like some sort of Corvette and are pretty shabby, plus one is scratched inside the wheelwell. IMHO they ain't worth much unless refinishing.]

CrazyHawaiian -- Does it have a grey interior? I'm looking for a grey drivers side seat w/ power adjustments and no rips.

[Duck sez: Yes, grey pepper and salt, but not power. Drivers seat has a small rip on left bottom side, otherwise interior looks and smells ok. In particular, the split rear seat is nice as is the hatch extendable privacy curtain.]

91RSHawaii -- Is that a salvage titled car? if not my friend would want to buy it since he got rear ended in his 89 RS, and could swap over whats missing.

[Duck sez: it never went to salvage, it was on the resale side of the yard. We have removed the axles and rear housing, but am leaving the disk brake calipers [not PBR] and shocks, etc, intact. The body is real straight and in good condition, I'd recommend the car for either 1. taking off the whole rear including the quarter panels and/or 2. removing all the plastic and upgrade the 89 to 91-92 aerodynamics, or 3. investing $100 in another rear differential, bolt it in and use a daily driver.]

HawaiianRS -- I need a trunk latch if you part it out.

[Duck sez: trunk latches are unique to 91-92, won't fit earlier 3rd Gens.]

I'll post a couple photos for y'all. Also, send a PM if you'd like to come on over and look for yourself.

Appreciate the responses.
Ed

 

Just send me an address and I'll stop by...

 

Thats frustrating about the trunk latches, I have an '83 latch which is different as well, argggghhh!!!
Still I may be able to use a couple things. Send me the address and let me know what a good time is. Thanks.

 

Here's a photo of the '92 RS, the color is actually "teal" but it sure looks blue in the photo... The inside is really clean too...

 

wheels? someobody left a chair in the way...

 

My guess...16" and '92...prolly look like the ZQ8s that some S10s got. Sorry, I'm not fluent in F-body lingo! stew

 

Finished installing the 92 RS posi rear in the Z28, seems to run fine, so now it's on to installing another rear in the RS.

I need to make some decisions here: If someone is interested in buying the whole car cheap, say for $300-400 and invest $100 in a good-condition rear end, then they can drive it away. Doing the work at my place is OK and I'll assist with obtaining the replacement rear.

If nobody wants the whole car, it's open for stripping and anyone interested in parts needs to pick out what they want. Whatever is left will then be given away or disposed of with the Z28 disk rear installed with new Richmond 3:42s which apparently has a bad part in the posi or differential.

BTW, during my parts search around Oahu, I bought a rear from a 4th Gen '95 Camaro complete with PBRs, rotors, and brake lines. This will be a good backup rear in case more problems come up. I noticed the 4th Gen rear is a LOT heavier then the 3rd Gen rear for some reason...

Ok, guys let me know what you wanna do...

Ed

 

Ahhh i was gonna try and give you a call so i could swing by today Ed, but I forgot today was ... mothers day... ehehe.... But I got those hood blisters for ya from my hood. I would sure like to take a look at the RS though, I might be able to come by some afternoon this week, id really be willing to take it off your hands. ill pm you later today.

 

I wish I would have seen that a week or two ago! Tell you what I'll just swing by swap my rear on to that car and leave mine
I was also hoping to come buy this weekend but we celebrated my wifes B-day last night and I'm paying for it today. Can't think of much that sounds worse than working on a car in the sun right now.

 

indeed, the weather has been very unforgiving... and its only going to get hotter hehehe... and my A/C needs to be recharged too.. too bad its R-12....

 

First notice about the 92 being picked up was April 27...

If you have a rear and want to install it, that's cool. Keep in mind that the car has been not driven much for a year, so it will need all the fluids changed, filters changed, major lubrication of things such as hinges, windows [driver's side moves very slow, passenger side might be stuck or have blown fuse], etc, plus the original battery is dead [I'm keeping the extra Red-Top now installed. The tires don't seem to hold air very long either.

Any day, 4-7 p.m. is OK, and would appreciate a call first.

Ed

 

Got enough Camaros yet?

Heh, always nice to have a clean parts car around, especially the 90-92 series. 4-7 p.m. is ok, call first, bring the blisters would be appreciated.

I'm halfway tempted to keep the RS, it's a decent ride with the options I like, yeah, and NO sunroofs -- no leaks! Oh, it also has the original VATs key, so no hassles there.

 

hehe keep her then, it would make a great 2nd car.. erhmm or rather 4th car(87,92, Van, and the RS)? Dont be forced to sell her due to us.

 

Well, it's just that the RS has all the makings for a nice street car, but if I was to have a third Camaro, I'd rather it be a race-only car ... and to do that it would be better to have a shell instead.

Nope, it's gotta go.

 

$300-$400 huh? Would you be mad if someone bought it and turned around and sold it for more?

 

No, not at all, I guess after cleanup and detailing the car would sell for around $1,500. I don't want to deal with fixing tires that only hold air for 30-minutes, cleaning and painting the wheels, changing all the fluids and prepping the car for a profit

All I wanted was the disk rear so we could get the Red Car back on the road. That's done, so it's time to clear the space for something I really want, like a race car or even nicer -- a 3rd Gen ragtop, if I can find one.

If nobody wants it, I'll strip it for parts that are in better condition than what we have on our other Camaros, let everyone else jump in for cheap parts, then have C&C tow it away.

All-in-all, getting a replacement rear for the Red 92 was much cheaper this way than wasting $700 trying to fix the Red rear in the first place.

 

Ed- I guess I didn't have my eyes open wide enough to notice what was going on the with the '92. I was too focused on an 89 IROC that slipped through my fingers, then I ended up with Tony's car which I'm glad about because I got all the 5-speed stuff cheap even considering the bad tranny.
I was just kidding about leaving my car behind I know you space. I have a rear end to use already, I'll give you a call around lunch time to take a look at the car tonight if that's cool. I just live over by the exchange, and any time after 4pm is good for me too.
Corey

 

Wow! I too have been preoccupied & didn't keep up with this thread!!! If nobody takes the car Ed, I'd like to buy the door panels if they are the ones that have black vinyl with the three indentations(don't know how to spell!) at the top & carpet at the bottom.

Anthony

 

FYI Crazy Hawaiian has said he has the cash, wants the car and is ready to take it away. Since he is the first person to move beyond "wanting to look and decide," the car is now obligated to him. If this changes, I'll do an update.

 

hey shawn, if you decide to pick up the car from Ed, then I can help you out with installing the rear and the two cars-one driver situation that would arise. I figure, since i gotta return the PP2 back to you, I could pick u up from u're house, we drive to Ed's house, install the rear, then we each go home in our own cars. I remember where Ed's house is if u haven't already been there.
or... after the install, i can follow you back to your house in case something happens on the road. Either way, I'd like to help out in some way for letting me use the programmer. LMK what you wanna do.

 

There are some logistical complications to consider ... since the government had it in covered storage for more than a year, it is presently unlicensed. When the owner came back from deployment to Iraq, he had a pocketfull of cash to burn, took one look at four flat tires, rusted rims and a dead battery, donated the car to the Army Craft Shop to be sold, and went downtown to buy a new Corvette. The craft shop mechanics filled the tires, installed a battery and drove the car two or three miles to the government sales yard where it sat for several weeks, and the tires went flat again and the battery died.

Because it is unlicensed, I had it towed home, where I put air in the tires, installed a battery, started the car and ran it for half hour, verified no smoking, engine no unusual noises, dash electronics worked ok, then drove it around the block and into the carport, where of course, the tires and battery went flat.

Not sure how Shawn wants to move the car, since after the title is signed over it's his call, but the safest way is to have a truck and a tow rope along for the trip, just in case a driveability problem comes up or HPD notices there's no plates.

 

Hey thanks for the offer Danny. No worries about barrowing the programmer. I already set it up with one of my friends so I'll have to take a rain check. But hey you can still stop by and say whats up, no worries about having to get under the car. We're gonna use my friends truck to haul the rear from my house and we're both gonna install it at Ed's. We're also bringing 4 wheels/tires that hold air. Gonna drive it back home. You might see it at Drift Session, might not LOL. I'll be sure to take video of us blowing up those tires Ed.

 

hmm repeat post.. accidental

 

Yeah, there's nothing like the shriek of old, hard rubber being melted-off right down to the tire cords!

Drive it home, yeah, that's what I would have done if I had four extra tires holding air! I hope it drives OK on the way to your place. When I drove it around the block and up into my carport, it seemed sluggish, but I attribute that to each tire having about 15-lbs of air. BTW, when I put a fresh battery in the RS and the electronics energized, the hatch motor opened the hatch, when I closed the hatch, the motor pulled it down and it started clicking, indicating that the unit needs to be adjusted up a bit -- so that needs to be done, or simply pull the power plug off and manually close the hatch. I checked the oil level, it's full and dirty, didn't check the ATF, and noted the diff fluid was old, probably original 140K stuff.

I called DMV about the registration. According to the nice lady on the phone, 532-4325/4, the US Govt Form 97 which transfers ownership of the 92 RS to me, can be transferred directly to a new owner when a notorized bill of sale is attached. The transfer fee is $10 within 30 days from the date on the Form 97, $60 after more than 30 days. To register a car in Hawaii as "Storage Status" meaning there are no accumulating taxes, fees or inspections, the applicant pays a one-time fee of $60. Storage Status is a good category for long-term project cars, 'cause it registers the car for insurance purposes and eases the transition to licensing and inspection. In this case, the Form 97 for the '92 is dated April 27, so before May 27 is the cut-off date for the $10 DMV transfer fee.

Shawn -- send me a PM with your ID info so I can have a notorized bill of sale for $400 done NLT Friday.

 

Sure is fun installing a rear! ThirdGens are so cool to work on, brings out the giggles while Shawn and Tony sort out piles of what goes where. Cars that sit undriven for more than a year need an assortment of Special High Intensity Treatment in the form of Liquid Wrench, propane torching and breaker bars on fittings; then fluid replenishment or changing; and finally some running to get the parts motivated again...

 

The 92RS is alive!! Got the car home today, pretty happy it made it. To be honest I wasnt sure if I was gonna make it but I kept going anyway. It slips pretty bad in all the gears, shifts around 3,000 rpm LOL. We're gonna change out the tranny fluid and filter, put in some of that stop slip fluid additive, re-adjust the TV cable and see if it gets any better. *crosses fingers*

 

That's quite an improvement, considering that earlier the trans was so dry reverse wouldn't engage at all until fluid was added. Those are exactly the sort of issues encountered with cars sitting dormant for a long time. The coolent and engine oil are pretty foul too... Alternator not putting out [glad you made it all the way home on the battery], wheel bearings need repacking, and the power window assemblies need cleaning and lubing with silicon spray.

Looking on the good side, another decent 3rd Gen has escaped the wrecker, my extra carport is empty so I can finally do the PBR upgrade on the '87 rear and change the noisy axle bearing, and the red '92 is running OK with the transplanted disk brake rear from the RS.

We'll adjust the price depending on the actual running condition of the car, so if the trans doesn't come back to life, you won't be screwed-over.

 

Hooray, another one saved...! That picture looks like you were all having a LOT of fun...

 

Well, both Shawn and Tony have a great sense of humor, they were cracking me up all night, heh. Didn't realize it before, but Shawn has good rhythm too -- you should have watched him juggle a Heiniken on one hand and a flashlight in the other! Tony is a pretty good wrench and put considerable muscle on some of the fastenings that were frozen, like wheel lug nuts had to be torched, then pounded with a brass hammer -- but we didn't need the 3-foot breaker bar 'cause Tony becomes the Hulk when "push comes to shove" and previously immovable fittings suddenly became Teflon-smooth! ...the interesting thing about Tony is that he pilots a supercharged 4-cylinder F O R D, how cool is that!