Ok this is what is going on. I've got an 89 T/A 305 5 speed. I drove it to my parents house the other day and when i tried to leave it wouldn't start. I've got power when I turn my key on, I've replaced the starter relay behind the kick panel, I've had the starter test 3 times its good every times. I've bypassed the clutch safety switch also. However when I try to start the car nothing happens, I can hear the relay ticking away really fast so that's getting power. Basically I'm out of ideas and need some pointers. Any ideas anyone help please.

 

did you try jumping it? did you check all the connections and the ground?

 

Check both battery cables for a tight connection and clean off any corrosion.

check the wiring on the starter also and make sure there in the right spot.

 

so the battery is good?

 

Thanks for the replies. The battery is good, the connections are tight and free of corrosion. The starter is connected properly and they are tight also and corrosion free.

 

sorry, im out of options now. good luck. if I come across something ill get back to you

 

Thanks

 

this might be a silly question can u get in there and try turning the motor over some by hand? i wouldnt try doing it with the harmonic balancer bolt wouldnt wanna see u snap it off in the crankshaft

 

that away if u can u know without a doubt ur motor aint locked up or vapor locked

 

You said the starter was tested 3 times... How was it tested?

Did you take it off the car and have it bench tested?

I run an Advance Auto Parts store and test starters daily. The best way is to take it in and have an associate run a bench test at least 4 times in a row. Starters often fail after they heat up. Make sure the associate has it positioned so they can SEE the shaft so they can SEE the drive extend. I have seen many instances where the drive spins but doesn't extend. If the associate goes based on just the sound then they aren't giving you a good test.

*** Also look for wear and degradation of the drive. I have seen the teeth on the drive almost completely gone due to metal fatigue or other issues.

 

my quess is the vats wires at the igniton lock cylinder broke my 92 did the same thing

 

i can try tomorrow but it was running perfect when i parked it and the motor is less than a year old.

 

I took it to Advanced Auto they tested 4 or 5 times every time i took it in. The gears look good still also.

 

my 92 ran perfect until i parked it in buddys shop to do a quick couple little things then would not turn over,replaced the starter no go,check the vats resistance at bottom of column and it was not there,replace igniton found the litttle white wires broke at the switch car worked fine after that

 

I can look at that, but if it was broke why would i still have power when i turn the key to the run position?

 

VATS is an anti-theft device and only effects starting the vehicle. It has nothing to do with the other circuits energizing.

 

Ok thanks I didn't know that at all. I'll check that after work tomorrow. This is why I love this forum y'all are great.

 

Check the fusible links to the starter. Lots of time they burn up inside but appear to be a solid wire from the outside. Happened to me. Power with key but starter wouldn't even energize.

 

Where are the fusible links? I've heard of them but I have no idea where they are at on the car.

 

Takes out the starter and injectors

Read
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

 

If the relay is doing that , the you have a problem.If should be either OFF or ON
Temp bypass the relay to remove it from the equation.

AS noted in post # 2 above , hot wire the starter direct to the battery to confirm it actually works when in place ; not just on a bench

Next test is to see if you have 12v on the purple wire at the starter in the START position.
If not , need to check with a DVM every point on the starter circuit from the Ign switch to the starter to see IF you have power and where it stops

If the problem is VATS related the starter enable relay will not be turned on at all

 

The fusible links are on power wires FROM the starter terminal ; not to it.

 

or just check to see that the resistance at the plug at the bottom of the column matches the key as i said before my 92 would not crank and that was caused when the wires broke in the column

 

There was one person who found out his ignition switch was loose/not aligned with the ignition cylinder rod.

"I dropped the column and loosened up the switch, moved it, and turned the key and it worked fine. I guess it was just out of alignment."

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-gta-wont.html

 

well I think it's the VATS so I had it towed the the shop. I'll let y'all know what it ends up being.

 

Is motor locked up?

I have seen the alternator lock up and not let the starter turn the engine over.

 

So was it the VATS??

 

yeah it was the VATS