Ok I'm building a 406 stock 2 bolt block with splayed caps. I want to use 6in rod's also. I'm going to be running a R-trim and some spray as well. I should be in the 700 to a 1000hp and want to know what everyone is using as far as crank and rod's go. What the best parts for the money. All other parts I'm using should be in sig.

 

I just put a deposit on this combo in my sig. It has a forged eagle rotating assembly with 4340 steel nitrided crank, 4340 3D nitrided 6"rods, 11.5:1 JE forged pistons, JE rings and Clevite 77 Bearings, also has 4130 chromoly comp cams pushrods, pro magnum roller rockers 1.6 ratio etc. See sig. This will produce close to 580 HP and 523 TQ says the desktop Dyno 2000. The rotating assembly is only $1599 not balanced at http://www.racewaymedia.com/classifi...php3?ad=11018. Note these are 11:1 pistons

 

Eagle is good stuff. JE pistons are as good as it gets. Crower makes real good stuff. Always get forged 4340, nitrided stuff makes the surface a lot harder. Polishing rods reduces crack propogation, making them more reliable. Use ARP fasteners.

 

www.callies.com makes some of the best cranks in the word but they are pricey (I like cola for price and strength), www.oliver-rods.com and www.carrilloind.com make some of the baddest rods (expensive) but I use eagle H-beams or lunati I-beams rods in just about everything exept for the big stuff like yours, In really bad *** stuff I like knarly aluminum rods (they absorb shock) bruce fulper at rock and roll engineering says they are ok for the street, but i would never put them in a commuter.

 

Terry if you plan on making that kind of power, I would seriously consider going with a dart or motown engine block. The factory casting is goiung to be VERY VERY VERY hard pressed to support that kind of power. Even withi 4 bolt splayed caps. You will start cracking cylinders and the deck.

I have not had this happen personally but I know of one other board member who had it happen to him. Its the main reason I swapped from a factory block to a Dart Little-M.

I have the steel cap 4 bolt splayed block. Eagle 4340 crank, eale 6" h-beam rods and Je 9.2:1 pistons. They have thicker material above the ringlands and the wrist pin is in the oil ring but it is not a major deal as a lot of people have done this as well.

Good luck.

Wish I had a callies crank instead.

 

I am pressing a very soon to be over abused two bolt block 400 with a girdle and ARP's, utilizing a half fill (to the freeze plugs) of moroso block fill. but a 700 to 1000 hp is some serious HP and a serious block would be recommended.

 

My combo is (will be when I get off my butt and assemble it):

Dart Little M, 4.1215 bore ($1900)
Callies Dragonslayer Crank ($6xx)
Eagle 6" H-beam rods ($450)
AFR 210's

HTH!

A.

PS - It's a "bottom end". I think "bottom in" is something they do in prison...