Need info on a Garrett T3
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Need info on a Garrett T3
Im looking to Sale a T3 I have but dont know whats its really worth. and I dont want to ask a price and it be riping somoene off or lowballing myself. So Can someone give me a Ball PArk figure?
This is the Info I got off the turbo.
GARRET T3 some ID #'s 25512270 465576-3E LD0148
The A/R is .63 One impelar has a few nicks in it. Other is perfect. Pic's Are below
Im gona beadblast it befor Its sold and clean it up.
One of the impelars have a few nicks in the tips. The other is perfect.
Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 picture 4
Thanks In Advance
Chris
CE COATINGS
This is the Info I got off the turbo.
GARRET T3 some ID #'s 25512270 465576-3E LD0148
The A/R is .63 One impelar has a few nicks in it. Other is perfect. Pic's Are below
Im gona beadblast it befor Its sold and clean it up.
One of the impelars have a few nicks in the tips. The other is perfect.
Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 picture 4
Thanks In Advance
Chris
CE COATINGS
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Hum… well…
I bought a pair of 60trim/.63AR turbos off of some 2.3L fords for $200 ($100 each).
That is not one off of one of those engines. Looking at it I would guess that it might be off of an early, hot air buick turbo engine or something else. It’s got some seriously weird flanges on it which will probably make it harder to sell.
Do you know what size (trim) the compressor side is? Most that had a .63AR turbine side were 60 trims but that one, well, its hard to tell, most 60’s have a stepped compressor inlet. Most 60’s are also labeled as such and have an M11 (sometimes an M10) cast in them. From one of the pictures it looks like it might have an M8.
Honestly, looking at the pictures it looks like it needs a new compressor wheel and the annular, exhaust side drain is probably plugged which has probably ruined the seal on that side. The cheapest way to fix this is to just buy a new CRA (cartridge), which will be $$$ from most turbo rebuilders and still $120-140 for someone with connections. Based on that I’d say it’s probably worth a $25 core to someone that really needs a turbo with those specific oddball connections, or you could put between $150-275 worth into it + bead blast it and it would be worth about $250-275 or so on eBay.
I suppose that you could bead blast it and put it up with no information but you’d be ripping anyone that paid more then $20-30 off.
Hum, maybe if we could identify what exactly it is from and if it was something rare it might be worth more
I bought a pair of 60trim/.63AR turbos off of some 2.3L fords for $200 ($100 each).
That is not one off of one of those engines. Looking at it I would guess that it might be off of an early, hot air buick turbo engine or something else. It’s got some seriously weird flanges on it which will probably make it harder to sell.
Do you know what size (trim) the compressor side is? Most that had a .63AR turbine side were 60 trims but that one, well, its hard to tell, most 60’s have a stepped compressor inlet. Most 60’s are also labeled as such and have an M11 (sometimes an M10) cast in them. From one of the pictures it looks like it might have an M8.
Honestly, looking at the pictures it looks like it needs a new compressor wheel and the annular, exhaust side drain is probably plugged which has probably ruined the seal on that side. The cheapest way to fix this is to just buy a new CRA (cartridge), which will be $$$ from most turbo rebuilders and still $120-140 for someone with connections. Based on that I’d say it’s probably worth a $25 core to someone that really needs a turbo with those specific oddball connections, or you could put between $150-275 worth into it + bead blast it and it would be worth about $250-275 or so on eBay.
I suppose that you could bead blast it and put it up with no information but you’d be ripping anyone that paid more then $20-30 off.
Hum, maybe if we could identify what exactly it is from and if it was something rare it might be worth more
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
It was pulled from a T-Type.
It has G1 and M28 on it also...
The exh. sid elooks fine in person. the inlet side is kinda chewed up on the tips. Everything else is fine. I plan to beadblast it befor I get ride of it. Possable thermal coat it as well.
shrug. I may just put it on ebay like you said and list all the #'s off of it in the add.
It has G1 and M28 on it also...
The exh. sid elooks fine in person. the inlet side is kinda chewed up on the tips. Everything else is fine. I plan to beadblast it befor I get ride of it. Possable thermal coat it as well.
shrug. I may just put it on ebay like you said and list all the #'s off of it in the add.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Yea, I recognized the GM style inlet for the turbine, but that outlet elbow just didn't look like a turbo buick to me.
what I was seeing on the turbine side was the fact that it looked slightly wet/oily. As hot as that area gets it won't get that way uness you're really leaking a lot of oil.
Doesn't make that big a difference, just that unless you're a rebuilder and have all these parts laying around it's cheaper to get a CRA then just the compressor wheel, and a rebuilder will charge you more then either to replace the wheel.
what I was seeing on the turbine side was the fact that it looked slightly wet/oily. As hot as that area gets it won't get that way uness you're really leaking a lot of oil.
Doesn't make that big a difference, just that unless you're a rebuilder and have all these parts laying around it's cheaper to get a CRA then just the compressor wheel, and a rebuilder will charge you more then either to replace the wheel.
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