You could, in theory, assuming you mount the tubos above them. The problem is (from what I've found from researching it, I haven't tried to see if it's true) small block chevy's have oil drainback problems from the heads to start with, and any extra oil stuck up there may result in leaking (oil backing up on top of the heads) and possibly pumping all the oil out of the oil pan.

 

I have seen that phenomenon, I saw an incon kit where as a guy tried to poke his pan just once and because his line from the D-side turbo had to go all the way to the pass side (not quite level for part of the trip but definitely not straight down either), the car smoked. I put a second pan return on the D-side, nearly straight down, problem fixed. it reminds me of the guy that asked me how to route the extra nitrous line and I told him I routed it through the steering wheel, around the shifter, under the seats (right through the slide track), etc...

 

so what if you enlarged the oil drainback holes in the head? Or made your own? Easier to just tap the oil pan? And what about that mechanical fuel pump cover, cant drill and tap that? not enough drainback? How much oil circulates through turbos anyways!?

 

flow is faily restricted to the return side to keep the bearing lubed, so it doesnt just bleed off all your engine oil pressure too. if you add to this restriction any by letting oil acumulate against the return side at all oil will push its way to return but also push past the seals that are made to hold NO pressure, and you will get a mosquito abatement vehicle. No problem with west nile disease at your cruise in spot, drag strip, or neighborhood.

 

Looks like I'll be putting drains in the oil pan. And that seems to require pulling the pan. No way around it. I'll be installing some kind of wastegate somewhere on both sides. Probably won't use a BOV unless I really need to. I'm still waiting on my downpipe weld flanges. Kingtal0n, I used that pipe cause I had it laying around. I was thinking of buying some 3" pipe but that seemed a bit big from what 83 CrossFire TA was saying. After thinking about it and looking at stock manifolds my 2" pipe looks like it would flow better then the stock so I went ahead and used that.

Brad...

 

actually I have never pulled a pan for a blower/turbo install at our shop. vortech, procharger, incon, etc... use a set of instructions about how to poke a pan and use a tap full of grease to catch ALL of the shavings/grindings. you may even search here

 

That's not entirely right. There is a restriction in the oil inlet. The oil flows into the floating or semi floating bearings and the shape of the chamber around the bearings, the holes in the bearing shell and the spinning of the shaft take care of maintining a proper oil film. From there the oil gets flung off the shaft/bearings, and dribbles down a sheild that keeps it from getting into the compressor side. The exahust side has a piston ring type seal, but it doesn not retain oil, but prevents high pressure exhaust gas from entering and forcing the oil out of the bearings and acting like blow by in the oil system. So basically, if the drain line backs up at all, you'll get oil everywhere.

 

I'd love specifics on the locations. You definitly don't want them to line up with a crank throw and in a perfect world you'd stay clear of the bearing caps to make punching the hole easier.

I've searched around before and only found the Vortech instructions which locate the return in what would be a bad location for a turbo setup (towards the back of the oil pan in front of the oil filter, so you'd have to run your return round your headers/down pipes).

Where do the rest of the kits put the drain?

 

I'd like to see these instructions. I thought you had to weld a bung in or soemthing. Also isn't the oil pan a bit thin to tap? What kind of fitting do you use? Post the instructions please. Thanks.

Brad...

 

you start with a sharp punch, and a measurement to locate the spot, then make the starting hole with the punch, this indentates the area around the hole to create a threadable passage. page 8 of this manual http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/4gf218im.pdf

 

use the brass barb or an fitting of your choice in the size that suits you

 

Thanks. That makes things much easier.

Brad...