Well, I thought that I had a small tranny problem but that is not the case. I torn the tranny apart today and found nothing wrong with it, besides the fluid being a little thin. Well after I refilled the trans with new fluid, I start the car and let it warm up. Well the engine started to blow white smoke out of the breather cap and oil dip stick. I'm having a problem with coolant vanishing, you guys think it's a head gasket problem or what? One last thing after a few rev's tpo 4500 the car dies, without any SES lights and the computer is clear of codes.

 

yeah the head gaskets hopefully that is all

 

sounds like a head gasket.

 

when my 91 was under its previous ownership, and I was his mechanic basically the same thing happened from the blower only he didnt tell me for too long and the bearings took a crap from the coolant in the oil, I fixed jusk the gaskets against my suggestions and it ended up with a rod knock. It never had an SES light it did have some eng temp fluctuations but if you do a leakdown you can confirm your worst fears. hopefully no rod or piston damage has occured.

 

What would cause a nitrous backfire?

 

It was my fualt, to much timing! My MSD digital 6+ didnt retard the timing till 2000 RPM's, I blew with in the 60 mark. Hard lesson learned.

 

oh ok, can you program the digital 6 to retard before 2000?

 

you were using the nitrous below 2000rpm?????


mike

 

No you can not, that is an internal factory setting.

 

Yes I did and didnt have any problems till I jacked the timing trying to run faster N/A, and though if I asjusted the MSD retard I'd be fine. NOT the case.

 

So there is no way to adjust the amount of retard or when the retard comes in on the digital 6, it's locked in permanently from msd?

 

You are able to adjust the amount of retard from 0-9.9 degrees. But the retard function does not kick in untill 2000 RPM's.

 

oh ok, thanks for the info

 

Wow, that's good to know..


Even though 2,000 is way below where I spray...

I wonder if the 6AL and other 6 series boxes are the same..

 

not to sound like a smart *** here. but if you stall your car up to say 1500 or more, then hit the gas you will be above 2000 almost instantly. I leave on a 200 shot. I run a digital 6, 36deg full timing and I retard 6 deg for 200. I launch at 1800 and leave on the bottle. I have a 3800 stall.

Drew

 

I'm still running the stock stall. :nono:

 

You know, I said this in the first thread about it but apparently it fell on def ears. I’ll say it again and if you don’t want to listen here fine, I’ll shut up and let you blow your **** up however you like.

2000rpm is WAY TOO LOW an rpm to spray at.

First, at low rpm’s you typically don’t have enough airflow in the right direction to make sure the N2O/fuel goes the right way. You’re lucky if the engine is making as much HP as you’re spraying, so you’re spraying more O2 and gas then the engine is using and expecting it all to go down. You’re LUCKY if you get a N2O backfire that way.

Second, your 100, 150, 200hp or whatever shot is that hp worth at whatever rpm you shoot it at. If we’re talking about a 150 shot, that’s 150lb-ft of torque at 5252rpm, 225lb-ft at 3500rpm, and 394lb-ft at 200rpm. I’ll give you one guess as to what happens when you hit rods, crank, head gaskets, torque converter, trans, DS, axle… with an instant extra 400lb-ft of torque….