Poor exhaust valve sealing on a SC 383
Poor exhaust valve sealing on a SC 383
Here's the specs.
383
8.6:1 compression
procharger, p600 at 5 PSI (nothing radical)
efi
993 heads, stock valves, fresh valve job on heads
hydraulic lifters
stamped steel rockers
40 hours run time tops
Doing a compression test I found about 6 cylinders with 20-30 psi lower that the other two. I did a leakdown and found 6 of the exhaust valves were not sealing well (even with the rocker arms backed off).
Both the intake and exhaust valves were backcut. Using a marking compound after the valve job, there was good contact between the valves and seats. Upon diassembly of the heads, the exhaust seats look good, but the exhaust valves had a thin, spotty deposit on the face.
My questions are these:
Are the exhaust valves starting to burn up?
Do I need to run Stainless Steel valves?
383
8.6:1 compression
procharger, p600 at 5 PSI (nothing radical)
efi
993 heads, stock valves, fresh valve job on heads
hydraulic lifters
stamped steel rockers
40 hours run time tops
Doing a compression test I found about 6 cylinders with 20-30 psi lower that the other two. I did a leakdown and found 6 of the exhaust valves were not sealing well (even with the rocker arms backed off).
Both the intake and exhaust valves were backcut. Using a marking compound after the valve job, there was good contact between the valves and seats. Upon diassembly of the heads, the exhaust seats look good, but the exhaust valves had a thin, spotty deposit on the face.
My questions are these:
Are the exhaust valves starting to burn up?
Do I need to run Stainless Steel valves?
Last edited by a73camaro; Oct 8, 2003 at 11:45 AM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I would open the boost charge pipe and look for oil there
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
I would open the boost charge pipe and look for oil there
I would open the boost charge pipe and look for oil there
Before the damage, everything was running great and I checked timing at 35 hours. It was set at 8° BTDC initially but somehow wound up at 2° ATDC. So I reset the timing, heard some rattling and then bad blowby.
Upon further inspection, I found that the harmonic balancer ring slipped 10° since the rebuild so that explained the offset timing, and having about 45° advance with 5 psi boost explained the detonation.
I know what I did with the pistons, hence why the story was omitted.
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