I was removing my valve springs to do a cam swap on my 383 when one stubborn valve lock wedged itself in the retainer wrong and wouldnt come out. Eventually the lock stripped its self off when i pulled it and beat on it(was STILL very stuck in the retaineralso needless to say I went with a new spring). In the process i bent the valve very slightly. It will now open comfortably within the lift range of the cam (.515 with 1.6 rockers) but beyond that it gets stuck in the guide. My question is could I just tap it back into place the same way I bent it and run it? Or will i need a machine shop to work on it?

 

Not A high reving motor maybe 5500 to 6000 rpm

 

I think you already know the answer and are just looking for someone to help you rationalize what you have already decided to do instead.

 

yeah, bend that biotch back into shape and run it. Then check back here on how to rebuild it the right way.

C'mon......you know the answer.

Thursday humor......that advice was sarcasm.

 

Id slap it in my valve machine and and see how un-true it is. It depends on where the bend is. If its right under the head of the valve, some ppl will straighten it as good as they can, and then grind the face true so it will lay flat on the seat.

HOWEVER, valves are cheap.

maybe think about, do you want to upgrade to nicer valves? What type of heads? is it worth it?

If you are on a budget, I cant imagine a shop charging more than the price of a new valve to straighten it... Depends on valve type, shop and how busy they are.

-D

 

Well heck, spin her up fast and get her good and hot and she will straighten out fine!! Dont pay any attention to the smoke or metal grinding on metal noise. It will eventually stop. Come to a screeching hult actually. Then you know she is fixed.

 

 

A mallet on a valve? You need to take the head off now and replace it.

 

The valve lock had dug itself into the retainer pretty hard it only came out after hours of work. What the h*** was I supposed to do? Anyway I took it to a local shop and he said he would cut it off, get a new valve and do a good valve job on it.

I was hoping I could cut a corner here because I start college next monday and this is my ONLY ride there and to work. I guess missing the first few days couldn't hurt.

 

I understand being in college and being on a budget, but, as you found out, cutting corners only leads to more problems. So are you doing both sides at the same time? If not, you should (if you can afford it.) Doing only one side will probably give you better compression on the worked side than the non worked side. Just say'n, when it comes to cars, motors etc., try not to cut corners, or you'll pay for it in the end.

 

You're right . the peace of mind of doing something right is worth more than how ever much money you saved doing it wrong

 

That's how I used to do it too.. Never bent a valve

-- Joe

 

I made a tool by welding a air hammer bit to a socket. Vibrates the snizzle out of the retainer and the locks jump out.

-- Joe

 

That you know of.

 

I'd have noticed.

-- Joe

 

most shops lay the head on a table with a thick rag under the head incase the valve does come off the seat . then they place a socket over the retainer and give it a whack with a hammer and the locks pop out , theres nothing wrong with doing it this way unless u have some really stiff valve springs

 

That's how I was taught, and most everyone I know. But I didn't feel compelled to argue with folks who probably have never rebuilt an engine


-- Joe

 

Do you guy's remember the op's 1st post? Joe, you shouldn't argue anyway, your the moderator. By the way, your doing a lot of assuming also.

 

I get to argue. We encourage solid tech debates.

His first post? Yeah he screwed up. It happens. He obviously hit it at an angle, not straight on. He owned his mistake.

I used to change springs a lot when I bracket raced. Heck, I wrote the spring math for dummies post back in 2004.


-- Joe

 

Good job! But that's my point, If you hit one incorrectly you just hit a foul ball.

 

We're waiting to hear your better method.

I learned to use a light hammer too. Tapping the retainer around the perimeter, and not playing Thor is a valid way of doing it.

 

It's like scratching the crank or cylinder wall removing rods. Sometimes the rubber hose or bolt guard falls off and you screw up. It's a rookie thing.

-- Joe

 

Its how I was taught too, to take em apart and make sure they are seated correctly both. Used a soft hammer/hard plastic.

Makes quick disassemble work. It would suck to get one stuck and not have the tool to get it out.