My 1991 Z's Procharged Destroked 400
#51
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
I went with the 327 crank and 6" rods because they fit the set of stroker pistons I got a long time ago and the light at the end of the tunnel (huge oddball stroker forged crank I couldnt afford) never seemed to come on. In desperation I decided to just get this thing going. I got tired of being an arm chair quarter back since I sold the JYD. My friends saying, "you should just put this thing together..." Instead of putting it together with the cast crank and stock rods I just got some cheap H-beams and a forged 327 crank. besides this compression is better for a blower motor anyhow.
I went with the 327 crank and 6" rods because they fit the set of stroker pistons I got a long time ago and the light at the end of the tunnel (huge oddball stroker forged crank I couldnt afford) never seemed to come on. In desperation I decided to just get this thing going. I got tired of being an arm chair quarter back since I sold the JYD. My friends saying, "you should just put this thing together..." Instead of putting it together with the cast crank and stock rods I just got some cheap H-beams and a forged 327 crank. besides this compression is better for a blower motor anyhow.
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
If you ever think of getting rid of the white B4C lemme know. It would be an interesting platform for a turbocharged 342 I was contemplating before I picked up the TTA!
305 block and a GMPP 3.80 stroke with either a BBT66 or a a GT67(either may be too big for the small bore all stroke motor)
My car will hopefully be done soon and I may be looking to part with it and go to the afforementioned project.
Pete
305 block and a GMPP 3.80 stroke with either a BBT66 or a a GT67(either may be too big for the small bore all stroke motor)
My car will hopefully be done soon and I may be looking to part with it and go to the afforementioned project.
Pete
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Car: 89IROC
Engine: Forged 355 AFR195
Transmission: 700R4 Vigilante Converter
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.73
B4Ctom1
What kinda fuel system are you setting up to feed this?
Pump (intank or/an inline), injector sizes, stock fuel lines or what ??
What kinda fuel system are you setting up to feed this?
Pump (intank or/an inline), injector sizes, stock fuel lines or what ??
#54
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
stock intank, ATI inline, and 36 lb injectors
#55
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
stock intank, ATI inline, and 36 lb injectors
stock intank, ATI inline, and 36 lb injectors
#56
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
since my prowess with programming stock chips thus far has proven dismal, and for that reason I can't even consider a 749 swap, I will be using an FMU until I get good enough to consider delivering fuel through large injectors using the MAP.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I have my ATI one still, and I have a fancy fully adjustable cartech one too.
#60
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
it would be cooler if I could use the 749 swap
see I know I could get the 749 installed
there is just too much I don't understand about burning chips, and please dont ask me to read traxions article because thats how I got in this fix in the first place. Im really thinking aftermarket ECM now.
see I know I could get the 749 installed
there is just too much I don't understand about burning chips, and please dont ask me to read traxions article because thats how I got in this fix in the first place. Im really thinking aftermarket ECM now.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
yeah my machinist is a EMIC dealer, he has been on my **** hard over getting the gen 7, he thinks if I want to burn chips I should be using this program originally designed by a turbo Puick guy and then modified to work for a variety of other GM ECM platforms. Turbo something, it helps scan and create bin's
#63
Ive been down that road. to much work for me. I like to make my changes in real time, thats why i went dfi. It took 3 hours to tune my 442 on a dyno. thats drivability and full throttle. I am sure there are some people that can burn a chip that quick but they are far and few in between. The SY-TY computer is not that different. the hardest part would be making the harness work. you just get tunercat or somother software. If you are starting from scratch its not that much different. The other thing to is I can use the 442 computer in a different car! I can't switch it with my Typhoon, but When I finish my 69 camaro I will use it in there!
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
you can try it this way. You'll still have the maf, but will be a lot easier to tune. I may consider using this as aninexpensive step up to dfi.
http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/rttnr_desc.html
HTH!
Pete
http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/rttnr_desc.html
HTH!
Pete
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I doubt it, does it include a USB aldl scan cable? before you say adapter, please read this
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=194677
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=194677
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Car: 2013 C63C
Engine: M156 (P31)
Transmission: 7 speed MCT
Axle/Gears: AMG Limited Slip
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
yeah my machinist is a EMIC dealer, he has been on my **** hard over getting the gen 7, he thinks if I want to burn chips I should be using this program originally designed by a turbo Puick guy and then modified to work for a variety of other GM ECM platforms. Turbo something, it helps scan and create bin's
yeah my machinist is a EMIC dealer, he has been on my **** hard over getting the gen 7, he thinks if I want to burn chips I should be using this program originally designed by a turbo Puick guy and then modified to work for a variety of other GM ECM platforms. Turbo something, it helps scan and create bin's
I'd suggest taking a second look at that stuff before dismissing it.Tools like that are what has helped me get 650hp out of my 3.8 V6 using many stock parts including the stock ECM/Chip setup.
Steve
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Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
We all know you can't ring 650hp from a 3.8L
Someone mentioned to me that you put 55lb injectors in without modding the ecm, true or false. Mine has been down since July and hopefully will be done before the start of spring looking for bottom 11's. We'll see if the 51 and 50's can pull it off.
Someone mentioned to me that you put 55lb injectors in without modding the ecm, true or false. Mine has been down since July and hopefully will be done before the start of spring looking for bottom 11's. We'll see if the 51 and 50's can pull it off.
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Car: 2013 C63C
Engine: M156 (P31)
Transmission: 7 speed MCT
Axle/Gears: AMG Limited Slip
Originally posted by PETE
Someone mentioned to me that you put 55lb injectors in without modding the ecm, true or false. Mine has been down since July and hopefully will be done before the start of spring looking for bottom 11's. We'll see if the 51 and 50's can pull it off.
Someone mentioned to me that you put 55lb injectors in without modding the ecm, true or false. Mine has been down since July and hopefully will be done before the start of spring looking for bottom 11's. We'll see if the 51 and 50's can pull it off.
As for your combo,50's and a 51 is a great choice.Add in a good intercooler and some carefull tuning and I belive you'll reach your goals.
Steve
#69
http://www.holley.com/LunatiCamshafts/FallPromo/
go here, having a sale on SOME solid roller cams for $175 brand spankin new!
go here, having a sale on SOME solid roller cams for $175 brand spankin new!
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I looked and didnt see any power adder worthy solid rollers
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by PETE
If you ever think of getting rid of the white B4C lemme know.
If you ever think of getting rid of the white B4C lemme know.
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Hows it coming Tom? Im picking up a book ATSG tommarow then ill take pics of it for you.. but hows the short stroker coming?
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I still have to drive over to the next town and pick up my crankshaft. Then maybe I can begin assembly
Im thinking of firing up the heater and getting the temp above freezing out there to do some work today on the car in genral
Im thinking of firing up the heater and getting the temp above freezing out there to do some work today on the car in genral
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Car: 91 Vette and 96 GS Vette
Engine: minirammed 377 supercharged, nitrous
Transmission: 700R-4
You don't see too many destrokes around these days anymore.
Good to see another one.
How come you didn't go with a 377? I have to ask because I am kinda bias
Good to see another one.
How come you didn't go with a 377? I have to ask because I am kinda bias
#75
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by zelement
You don't see too many destrokes around these days anymore.
Good to see another one.
How come you didn't go with a 377? I have to ask because I am kinda bias
You don't see too many destrokes around these days anymore.
Good to see another one.
How come you didn't go with a 377? I have to ask because I am kinda bias
this is why:
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
I went with the 327 crank and 6" rods because they fit the set of stroker pistons I got a long time ago and the light at the end of the tunnel (huge oddball stroker forged crang I couldnt afford) never seemed to come on. In desperation I decided to just get this thing going. I got tired of being an arm chair quarter back since I sold the JYD. My friends saying, "you should just put this thing together..." Instead of putting it together with the cast crank and stock rods I just got some cheap H-beams and a forged 327 crank. besides this compression is better for a blower motor anyhow.
I went with the 327 crank and 6" rods because they fit the set of stroker pistons I got a long time ago and the light at the end of the tunnel (huge oddball stroker forged crang I couldnt afford) never seemed to come on. In desperation I decided to just get this thing going. I got tired of being an arm chair quarter back since I sold the JYD. My friends saying, "you should just put this thing together..." Instead of putting it together with the cast crank and stock rods I just got some cheap H-beams and a forged 327 crank. besides this compression is better for a blower motor anyhow.
#76
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Re: My 1991 Z's Procharged Destroked 400
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
I picked it up at the machine shop today.
Engine 352 cid super destroked 8.6:1 compression (approx)
400 block:
.030 over (4.155")
1/4 fill block filler
splayed caps
327 crank:
3.25" stroker
rarer large journal
factory forged steel
std/std journals
Rods:
6.00 inch
H-beam
4340
bushed for floating pins
Pistons:
forged
JE
Standard large ring pack
approx 21cc dish (too many years building I forgot)
Heads:
AFR
195cc
Loc-wire machined
68cc chamber
Cam:
solid roller
none selected
none purchased
Blower:
ATI P1sc
3 core intercooler
stock pulleys for now
custom built cogs later
see any of it: http://outlawperformance.com/images/91stuff/
I picked it up at the machine shop today.
Engine 352 cid super destroked 8.6:1 compression (approx)
400 block:
.030 over (4.155")
1/4 fill block filler
splayed caps
327 crank:
3.25" stroker
rarer large journal
factory forged steel
std/std journals
Rods:
6.00 inch
H-beam
4340
bushed for floating pins
Pistons:
forged
JE
Standard large ring pack
approx 21cc dish (too many years building I forgot)
Heads:
AFR
195cc
Loc-wire machined
68cc chamber
Cam:
solid roller
none selected
none purchased
Blower:
ATI P1sc
3 core intercooler
stock pulleys for now
custom built cogs later
see any of it: http://outlawperformance.com/images/91stuff/
Anyhow, I have looked at a few cams and I like this one alot. Tell me what you guys think. This is a solid roller for the engine above. Im looking at making 14+ psi boost (if possible more) and reving it to around 7000 or just over as my red line.
Erson - E119830 solid roller 230°/238° @ .050, 270°/278° ADV, .555"/.555” (.592”/.592” w/1.6’s) LIFT, 112° LC, 4° AD
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 03-24-2004 at 10:37 AM.
#77
Re: Re: My 1991 Z's Procharged Destroked 400
Originally posted by B4Ctom1
Anyhow, I have looked at a few cams and I like this one alot. Tell me what you guys think. This is a solid roller for the engine above. Im looking at making 14+ psi boost (if possible more) and reving it to around 7000 or just over as my red line.
Erson - E119830 solid roller 230°/238° @ .050, 270°/278° ADV, .555"/.555” (.592”/.592” w/1.6’s) LIFT, 112° LC, 4° AD
Anyhow, I have looked at a few cams and I like this one alot. Tell me what you guys think. This is a solid roller for the engine above. Im looking at making 14+ psi boost (if possible more) and reving it to around 7000 or just over as my red line.
Erson - E119830 solid roller 230°/238° @ .050, 270°/278° ADV, .555"/.555” (.592”/.592” w/1.6’s) LIFT, 112° LC, 4° AD
#78
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
how odd we had 9 psi with the pulleys it came with
#80
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
bigtime your cam suggestions have made me totally rethink my cam choices
anyways people LOOK! PROGRESS!
http://www.outlawperformance.com/ima...tuff/progress/
anyways people LOOK! PROGRESS!
http://www.outlawperformance.com/ima...tuff/progress/
#81
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I already installed the rear:
old rear:
pic needed
new rear:
A/C heaterbox I got from member tpi_roc swapped in:
before:
after:
PAracing.net Coil over install:
before:
after:
PAracing.net K-member install:
before:
after:
comparison:
if you have any "option" questions or before you order your k member consider the following:
Q: am I using regular mounts or a mid engine plate?
A: better let them know because the k-member comes WITHOUT motor mount pads standard.
Q: using this for street, drag, or road race?
A: you better get them to sturdy up your a-arms if you want to road race or even if you want to re-install your swaybar you will need tabs put on the A-arms for that (not standard). You may even want to consider ordering the a-arms WITH the spring perches and sway bar mount attached just for the extra rigidity they provide (not standard).
Q: am I running stock style springs or coil overs?
A: you need to decide this now so you can tell them to add/subtract the spring perches in the k-member and a-arms
Q: am I getting the k-member and not the a-arms?
A: you need to consider the spring perch thing here as well.
Q: are you going to run a rack unit now or eventually?
A: PAracing has a kit, if yes then have it installed on the k-member before they send it to you. If yes, but not right now you might want to buy it in mild steel like I did so you can "MIG" it later, instead of chromoly unless you have a "TIG" welder and skills.
next project: install manual steering box (half done) install manual brakes (1/4 done)
old rear:
pic needed
new rear:
A/C heaterbox I got from member tpi_roc swapped in:
before:
after:
PAracing.net Coil over install:
before:
after:
PAracing.net K-member install:
before:
after:
comparison:
if you have any "option" questions or before you order your k member consider the following:
Q: am I using regular mounts or a mid engine plate?
A: better let them know because the k-member comes WITHOUT motor mount pads standard.
Q: using this for street, drag, or road race?
A: you better get them to sturdy up your a-arms if you want to road race or even if you want to re-install your swaybar you will need tabs put on the A-arms for that (not standard). You may even want to consider ordering the a-arms WITH the spring perches and sway bar mount attached just for the extra rigidity they provide (not standard).
Q: am I running stock style springs or coil overs?
A: you need to decide this now so you can tell them to add/subtract the spring perches in the k-member and a-arms
Q: am I getting the k-member and not the a-arms?
A: you need to consider the spring perch thing here as well.
Q: are you going to run a rack unit now or eventually?
A: PAracing has a kit, if yes then have it installed on the k-member before they send it to you. If yes, but not right now you might want to buy it in mild steel like I did so you can "MIG" it later, instead of chromoly unless you have a "TIG" welder and skills.
next project: install manual steering box (half done) install manual brakes (1/4 done)
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 10-09-2004 at 02:00 AM.
#82
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I also need to know who has the procharger or vortech that installed/sectioned a tube/pipe bend into their fender on the drivers side fender well to get fresh air into it.
I'm going to do the same thing or atleast something similar and I didn't think of it on my own. I just wanted to give credit where credit is due.
I'm going to do the same thing or atleast something similar and I didn't think of it on my own. I just wanted to give credit where credit is due.
#83
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Originally posted by B4Ctom1
Q: are you going to run a rack unit now or eventually?
A: PAracing has a kit, if yes then have it installed on the k-member before they send it to you. If yes, but not right now you might want to buy it in mild steel like I did so you can "MIG" it later, instead of chromoly unless you have a "TIG" welder and skills.[/i] [/B]
Q: are you going to run a rack unit now or eventually?
A: PAracing has a kit, if yes then have it installed on the k-member before they send it to you. If yes, but not right now you might want to buy it in mild steel like I did so you can "MIG" it later, instead of chromoly unless you have a "TIG" welder and skills.[/i] [/B]
Very few people use 4130 filler, and the mild steel filler will be the same. Both will result in a HAZ that will be more brittle then the rest of the tube that will be prone to cracking from impacts, unless you go to the effort to renormalize the whole deal aver you get all the welding done.
#84
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I have a rule about 4130, if you dont have a tig then dont weld it, since I only have a mig, I figured mild steel and Im good to go.
not saying Im right, its more a personal preferrence that I should have indicated above. I also dont believe in welding cast iron without the proper fillers and a cast iron welding oven to keep the work hot. I was proven wrong (so far) about that with the cast iron manifold modifications people have made building turbo manifolds.
not saying Im right, its more a personal preferrence that I should have indicated above. I also dont believe in welding cast iron without the proper fillers and a cast iron welding oven to keep the work hot. I was proven wrong (so far) about that with the cast iron manifold modifications people have made building turbo manifolds.
#85
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I have yet to see someone weld 4130 with anything but mild steel or stainless filler (typically ER70S-6 which is OK, or some people insist on 309, which is a pretty bad idea). I’ve never seen someone do chassis work with 4130 and normalize it after welding it.
If you don’t have an oven big enough to properly normalize the whole, completed piece when you’re done, don’t use 4130. For the life of me I can’t figure out why they require it for 7:49 or faster cages…, the only reason that I’ve been able to come up with is that someone that doesn’t know any better decided that it’s a good idea and it stuck. This is the reason why NASCAR and most other professional racing classes require mild steel cages.
Cast iron is a different animal, but mostly because saying “cast iron” is just barely more descriptive then saying “steel.” The correct filler depends on the type and the application. The right procedure depends on the type and application. There are places that you can get a very satisfactory weld with mild steel wire and no preheat, as a matter of fact, in most of the applications that we discuss here that’s the case. “Proper fillers” (“cast iron rod”) consist of any filler with higher nickel content. Most stainless filler, inconel, “cast iron rod…” work fine to prevent cracking and are all much stronger then most (all?) cast irons.
Preheating depends on the part… mostly if it’s got a lot of thermal mass, it will self quench and crack if you do not.
FWIW, if you’re trying to fix cracked cast manifolds, unless you can grind out all of the reason for the original crack (usually some kind of crud in the casting), the cast iron will just “run away” from you when you try to weld to it. Instead just braze it.
If you don’t have an oven big enough to properly normalize the whole, completed piece when you’re done, don’t use 4130. For the life of me I can’t figure out why they require it for 7:49 or faster cages…, the only reason that I’ve been able to come up with is that someone that doesn’t know any better decided that it’s a good idea and it stuck. This is the reason why NASCAR and most other professional racing classes require mild steel cages.
Cast iron is a different animal, but mostly because saying “cast iron” is just barely more descriptive then saying “steel.” The correct filler depends on the type and the application. The right procedure depends on the type and application. There are places that you can get a very satisfactory weld with mild steel wire and no preheat, as a matter of fact, in most of the applications that we discuss here that’s the case. “Proper fillers” (“cast iron rod”) consist of any filler with higher nickel content. Most stainless filler, inconel, “cast iron rod…” work fine to prevent cracking and are all much stronger then most (all?) cast irons.
Preheating depends on the part… mostly if it’s got a lot of thermal mass, it will self quench and crack if you do not.
FWIW, if you’re trying to fix cracked cast manifolds, unless you can grind out all of the reason for the original crack (usually some kind of crud in the casting), the cast iron will just “run away” from you when you try to weld to it. Instead just braze it.
#86
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
so what will happen to those manifolds built by JYD turbo and others simply using wire feed welders to weld steel onto thier cast iron manifolds?
#87
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As Crossfire Knows I used a "cast Iron Rod" one of the "NASA BLUE" nickel rods, to do my turbo manifolds. I didnt pre-heat or anything nuts, just welded em up. The L98 Manifolds I was using to do the job with, just like 89JYTurbo used, seemed to be cast STEEL rather than cast IRON. This assumption was based on a few different reactions the welder got from the metal, and from the way it appeared to some people that were working with me on the metal itself. Crossfire mentioned that cast IRON was still STEEL, just a much lower grade, I beleive he said it was possible the manifolds were a higher grade of steel which is why the welding in my case (and 89JYturbo's case) went so easilly and without any problems so far after.
the welder I used was an ARC welder, 225AMP @ 100%DC (generator welder) set to somewhere around 180-200Amps, you can see pictures of the process on my site, Http://www.geocities.com/kingtaling/
just click turbo project link.
the welder I used was an ARC welder, 225AMP @ 100%DC (generator welder) set to somewhere around 180-200Amps, you can see pictures of the process on my site, Http://www.geocities.com/kingtaling/
just click turbo project link.
#88
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
thanks for clearing that up
#89
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iTrader: (2)
To clarify a little, steel and cast iron are just iron alloys. Cast iron is not iron, but an alloy of mostly iron and carbon. The biggest difference between steel and iron is it’s carbon content.
Secondly, saying “cast iron” doesn’t really tell you what you’re dealing with. It could be gray iron, white iron, ductile iron… all different alloys with different properties.
As far as welding “cast iron” stock exhaust manifolds, they are rather nice castings, and unless you’ve got a cracked one (with a casting problem), they weld rather nicely with the same exact procedures that you would use for a similar steel part, the only real difference is that you need to put less heat into the part to get the same penetration.
Secondly, saying “cast iron” doesn’t really tell you what you’re dealing with. It could be gray iron, white iron, ductile iron… all different alloys with different properties.
As far as welding “cast iron” stock exhaust manifolds, they are rather nice castings, and unless you’ve got a cracked one (with a casting problem), they weld rather nicely with the same exact procedures that you would use for a similar steel part, the only real difference is that you need to put less heat into the part to get the same penetration.
#90
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
so they are welded with lower heat settings? is it best to stitch them up a little at a time?
#92
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
so start the bead and see it through atleast til you get to a corner?
#93
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If that’s what makes you comfortable… I generally like starting the bead in the middle and going around the corners, that way you don’t put all the stress points/stress risers in one place (the corners). You kinda have to get a feel for it, where you can tack things and go with steel (as long as you leave an appropriate gap), if you do the same with cast the tacks will cause cracking.
FWIW, you can run nice beads on cast, just like on steel (some of each):
FWIW, you can run nice beads on cast, just like on steel (some of each):
#95
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
well today I weighed the stock coils, swaybar, and k-member. The weights broke down like this:
stock K-member a-arms and stock front coils: 113 lbs 3 oz
swaybar with bushings brackets and end links : 16 lbs 6 oz
total: 129.5 lbs
replacement k-member and coil overs: 40-45 lbs?
I almost dont want to say how heavy because I handled it plenty and it felt really light. you could lift it with one finger with the a-arms attached. I have a email into PA Racing to see if they can tell me what the exact weight is.
Anyhow, after staring at the grunge in the engine compartment I have decided that cleaning will not be enough.
prepping to paint lots of stuff to remove:
you mean I gotta take this thing back out again?
well next installment will be after cleaning and painting
stock K-member a-arms and stock front coils: 113 lbs 3 oz
swaybar with bushings brackets and end links : 16 lbs 6 oz
total: 129.5 lbs
replacement k-member and coil overs: 40-45 lbs?
I almost dont want to say how heavy because I handled it plenty and it felt really light. you could lift it with one finger with the a-arms attached. I have a email into PA Racing to see if they can tell me what the exact weight is.
Anyhow, after staring at the grunge in the engine compartment I have decided that cleaning will not be enough.
prepping to paint lots of stuff to remove:
you mean I gotta take this thing back out again?
well next installment will be after cleaning and painting
#96
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
weights:
Charcoal canister 2.5 lbs
Power steering pump, bracket, cooler, lines 16.5
A/C compressor, smog pump, bracket w/idler tensioner 31.75
A/C condenser 4.5 lbs
A/C box and fan 12.25 lbs
cast iron head 48 x 2 = 96 lbs
cast iron manifold w/smog fitting 13.25 x 2 = 26.5 lbs
stock K-member with motor mounts and springs: 113 lbs 3 oz
stock sway: 16 lbs 6 oz
____________________________
total = 319.5 lbs
procharger fuel pump, relays, wiring 2.5 lbs
procharger bracket w/idlers, crank spacer/pulley 15.5
procharger head unit 19.5 lbs
procharger intercooler brackets and scoop 22 lbs
Heater box and fan 5.5 lbs
AFR Head 32.5 x 2 = 65 lbs
Supercomp header 10 x 2 = 20 lbs
Jason @ paracing
PA a-arms: 12 for both
coil overs: 11 for both
PA K-member: 20
moroso motor mounts: 1
_____________________________
total = 194 lbs
Total weight savings = 125.5 mostly from nose of car!!!!!!!
still to come:
power stering box 28.75
manual steering box
power brake booster master cyl. 14 lbs
manual brake plate and master cyl
diverter valve
iron water pump 15 lbs
electric water pump
added cage and subframe connectors
Charcoal canister 2.5 lbs
Power steering pump, bracket, cooler, lines 16.5
A/C compressor, smog pump, bracket w/idler tensioner 31.75
A/C condenser 4.5 lbs
A/C box and fan 12.25 lbs
cast iron head 48 x 2 = 96 lbs
cast iron manifold w/smog fitting 13.25 x 2 = 26.5 lbs
stock K-member with motor mounts and springs: 113 lbs 3 oz
stock sway: 16 lbs 6 oz
____________________________
total = 319.5 lbs
procharger fuel pump, relays, wiring 2.5 lbs
procharger bracket w/idlers, crank spacer/pulley 15.5
procharger head unit 19.5 lbs
procharger intercooler brackets and scoop 22 lbs
Heater box and fan 5.5 lbs
AFR Head 32.5 x 2 = 65 lbs
Supercomp header 10 x 2 = 20 lbs
Jason @ paracing
PA a-arms: 12 for both
coil overs: 11 for both
PA K-member: 20
moroso motor mounts: 1
_____________________________
total = 194 lbs
Total weight savings = 125.5 mostly from nose of car!!!!!!!
still to come:
power stering box 28.75
manual steering box
power brake booster master cyl. 14 lbs
manual brake plate and master cyl
diverter valve
iron water pump 15 lbs
electric water pump
added cage and subframe connectors
#98
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Yeah I already found out my blower will pop if I rev that high, 7200-7300 will be where my rev limiter will be set.
#99
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
time for an update:
car back from paint jail for engine compartment paint.
the cage is being done at the adjoining shop as the body shop.
The body shop said do the cage before the body paint, and the chassis shop says to make it a roller (engine installed) before they will cage it.
so step one was to get the engine compartment painted so the enigne can go in.
Supposedly it is some sort of heat and chemical resistant paint.
HUGE pictures of it available here:
see you again in 3 months or so, maybe I will tighten a screw or something.
car back from paint jail for engine compartment paint.
the cage is being done at the adjoining shop as the body shop.
The body shop said do the cage before the body paint, and the chassis shop says to make it a roller (engine installed) before they will cage it.
so step one was to get the engine compartment painted so the enigne can go in.
Supposedly it is some sort of heat and chemical resistant paint.
HUGE pictures of it available here:
see you again in 3 months or so, maybe I will tighten a screw or something.