What size are the fittings on the holley blue in-line pump?
What size are the fittings on the Jaz Nitrous fuel cell?
What size and length of braided line would support a 300 shot if I mount the cell in the trunk? Would 20ft of 4-AN be enough or should I use 6-AN or even bigger?

 

1. The ports on the holley blue pump are 3/8" NPT in and out.
2. I believe the fittings on teh JAZ nitrous cell are 8AN, but they are only fittings, which can be replaced. I would reccomend no less than 6AN for supplying fuel to the nitrous or motor.

I believe that our cars are only about 19 feet long, so 20 feet should be enough, but with all the bends that you might need, it might end up being more than 20 feet.
Personally, I would go with a 6AN feed from the cell to the nitrous solenoid. If you are running this to the motor, I would run 8AN until you get to the regulator, then I would run 6AN from the regulator to the carb (if you are running a carb).

 

I would mount the cell in the front. especially if i was using a holley blue pump.

 

Thank you for your input.

The pump and line will only be supplying the nitrous. I have a 255 intank pump now w/ 30# inj. and an AFPR to get fuel to the motor.

Do you know if the holley pumps are sold w/ mounting hardware?

 

If you mean screws or bolts and stuff, I'm not sure. I bought mine off of ebay. Sorry.

 

Why? I don't understand.

 

Holley pumps are a *vane* style pump. When you put the pump in the rear of the car, and 20' of fuel line to it that equals about 4lbs of gas. The fuel pump then has to overcome g forces to keep the fuel flowing forward. If your car leaves hard enough it will stall the pump and starve you nitrous system. This happens to a lot of people but they do not realize it as they use the pump for a carb and the bowls have time to refill after the initial shock. Obviously this will be a disaster for a nitrous system. Gearotor pumps do not have this problem and would work better if you are going to mount your pump in the rear. When I build nitrous systems (for people running a decent amount of it) I make a tank and pump bracket in the origional battery tray, as most have already moved there battery to the rear. Now the pump hardly works as the g force is helping. This might not be a issue now but if you are planning to run a 300 shot your engine must already be making at least that. 600hp will leave pretty hard. Might be overkill but better than burned pistons.

 

Where can I find a Gear rotor pump?

 

I use Mallory.

 

some Mallorys I believe, but for sure BG and Magnaflow

 

Heres a pic how I do them.

 

Definately do NOT put the fuel cell in the hatch. Thats very very unsafe and no real track would allow you to race. Put the cell under the hood like the picture above.

 

here is how I do them

 

Thanks for the replies and pics. So I take it that you can mount them up down or inbetween and they'll still work?

Do you guys have a part number? I need something that'll support my DP system, but I'm unfamiliar w/ the actual amount (gph) that this system uses.

 

usually you want the pump below. since the job of this pump I used was so small and the pump so over kill, and the pump feed line so short. I just mounted the inlet side of the fuel pump below the regular fuel level.

 

that is a nice place to put it, but my CAI is going there, so I would have to mount it on the driver's side. No big deal. But assuming that I were to mount the pump in the engine bay, then I could get away w/ using the Holley blue? Or would you guys still suggest using the gear rotor type?

 

Holley blues have a priming problem from time to time. To counter this problem I suggest using a nice return style carb fuel pressure regulator (not mallory thier pumps are nice but thier regulators suck) and not the regulator that comes with the holley blue.

Make sure you put the pump on the same arming switch as the nitrous system and use a nitrous safety switch to disallow nitrous selenoid activation if fuel pressure is not good.

this IS just for the nitrous right?

 

Check, check...............This fuel system is JUST for the fuel solenoid of my nitrous kit. I've been happy w/ the 100 and 150 shot that I've been spraying w/ my NX kit and 255 intank pump. I plan on selling the NX kit and getting a Sportsman Fogger from NOS. I know that the NX kits are better, but I can't justify the extra 300+ bucks for the NX DP.

I will be keeping the GENXII kit that I have now from NX which includes a FPSS among other things. Thanks for lookin out though.

So if I go w/ the holley blue, then I will need to put the FPR on the return side? I'm confused. I didn't know there was a return line on a nitrous sys.

Is there a big price difference between the 2 pumps? Is there any downside to using the gear rotor pump? Price, instalation, availabilty, longetivity?

I'm allowing a ballpark figure of $1000 to 1400 for this project, do you think that's resonable, or will it cost more? I'm also going to use a progessive controller (hence the extra $250-350).

 

Here is my setup, holley blue pump mounted underneath the cell:

 

Here is another pic, I dont have a good photo editor at work so sorry for the size:

 

You might be a little tight with the progressive box, If you have to pay to get the fogger plumbed you will never do it, I get $750.00. welding the bungs are extra!

 

I will be doing all of the plumbing myself.

I think I got the regulator deal. Run the line from the pump into the reg. and then to the solenoid. Then run a line from the return port on the reg back to the cell. ----is that right? Should there be a filter between the cell and the pump?

 

Yes to all!

 

what regulator?

 

The one that adjusts the fuel pressure from the pump to the nitrous..........

 

Im asking to find out if he has a return style regulator or not

 

In the past we have used a regular holley regulator or the red nos one , we put a jet in the one side of the fitting then run a hose back to the tank. Since then we just buy the good pump and don't do it that way anymore.

 

make sure free bird understands that

 

I haven't bought any parts for the fuel sys. yet so can I just buy a reg. w/ a return line? A jet? In the return line? Why, and how do you determine what size jet to use?


"we get the good pump and don't do that" the good pump I'm assuming is the gear rotor kind? How does that reg. my fuel pressure?

 

Just buy a comp 140 pump, nos *red* or holley regulator, and don't worry about a return line.

 

That'll work. Thank you for clarifying.

 

sorry for bringing this post back from the dead, but i got a couple more questions. I'm trying to get parts together for my own enrichment system.

I've already got a Holley Blue pump (was free), and i wanna use it for the nitrous enrichment. My understanding was that i could mount the pump under the cell just like unknown_host did, and run the pressure line to the regulator(the reg. that comes with the pump), run one output to the n20 solenoid, with a pressure gauge on that line, and run the other output back to the tank. Then just adjust the regulator as ness. for the fuel solenoid. What i don't quite understand is where i'm supposed to put a jet in the return line, and to what purpose?

Can someone clarify this for me?

unknown_host, how is your setup working? Thats basically the same setup i plan to use.

Eric

 

Ok live and learn.

Dead heading:
Good if you dont like adjustability/tuning. My setup made 15+PSI at the fuel solenoid dead headed. I could open the regulator all the way up and close it all the way down and the fuel pressure was pegged on the 15 PSI gauge. Assuming that you bought a 30 PSI gauge, you would have to record the pressure dead headed (keeping in mind pressure creep) and then open the solenoid, record what fuel pressure it dropped to, and repeat until you had a conversion table from dead head to with the solenoid open.

Holley 3 port non bypass regulator with a jet in the return line:
Made the same fuel pressure with the jet in the line as it dead with no jet (2psi with the regulator maxed), used a .063 orifice NOS flare jet.

Quick Fuel technology regulator:
Best $80 I have spent on the system. Just keep in mind that the clocked the ports around on the regulator. Makes whatever fuel pressure I want it to, will be useful for track tuning.

Hope this helps .