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H2O injection effectiveness results, is this accurate?

Old Mar 9, 2004 | 01:32 AM
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H2O injection effectiveness results, is this accurate?

Hey guys,

I built a temp sendor for my roots car. I couldn't tap the lower intake for a temperature sensor because of the intake I built and the casting thickness. I did however have a spare vaccum nipple under the blower and a port above the blower.

Heres a small sketch of what I did.

Pressure from the outlet of the blower blows threw the vaccum line to a chamber with the temp sender... then pushed back threw a meter vaccum line to the inlet of the blower.

the idea is to get pressurized air to move pass the temp sensor which should show how warm the air is.


Well, i took it out for a test drive with the water/alcohol injection on I didn't see a rise of more than 2 degrees under 9psi during 2nd gear pulls. I haven't tried it without the injection yet.
Attached Thumbnails H2O injection effectiveness results, is this accurate?-untitled.jpg  
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 12:04 AM
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I doubt that you'll get very accurate numbers that way, the air will cool as it's going down the plumbing and the temp sender needs a bit of heat to get a reading. At best you'll have slow response.

If you're doing this to try test before and after temps for testing water injection, I'm not sure that I see the point in wasting your time. Do the math, you'll find that it will take an obscene amount of water to get a reasonable temp drop in the intake, and 2x that in alcohol to get the same drop. Instead worry about what it's doing to detonation (in a perfect world you'd be able to get the atomized water into the chamber without it vaporizing in the intake, in other words, get no charge cooling from it)
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 12:13 AM
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The line going to this is 3/8's rubber so i don't think that it can transfer any heat energy.. I understand its not as optimal as a temp probe right inthe blowers path but like i said before.. thats not a option right now.


I'm waiting on my new injectors (tomarrow) before I try before and after without alcohol/water.

you got to remeber that most centrifical cars will only gain 5-10 degrees (intercooled) in the same quick burst 3-4 seconds. So i don't think my first try and 3 degrees can be so far off.

anthor thing.. i'm spraying THREW the blower.. which I think would be awesome for atomozation and vaporization.

As far as quantity.. i'm spraying a 15 gph inozzel rated at 60psi at over 160psi. The reason? I had a regulator onthe car to tone down the pressure and it seemed to love it even at wide open like that. Regulator failed, so now its just deadheaded


What do you think?
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Old Mar 10, 2004 | 03:34 AM
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Originally posted by rooster433
The line going to this is 3/8's rubber so i don't think that it can transfer any heat energy.. I understand its not as optimal as a temp probe right inthe blowers path but like i said before.. thats not a option right now.
I just don't think that you'll get very meaningful numbers that way.

you got to remeber that most centrifical cars will only gain 5-10 degrees (intercooled) in the same quick burst 3-4 seconds. So i don't think my first try and 3 degrees can be so far off.
¿Que?

anthor thing.. i'm spraying THREW the blower.. which I think would be awesome for atomozation and vaporization.
Good luck… the bearings in that thing are in no way designed to be used with any kind of liquid going through the thing. I know gasoline will trash them very quickly. I suspect that water will take much longer, I wouldn't be surprised if after a few months you start seeing some negative effects… (though I guess that I've heard of some of the lighning guys spraying water through them)

As far as quantity.. i'm spraying a 15 gph inozzel rated at 60psi at over 160psi. The reason? I had a regulator onthe car to tone down the pressure and it seemed to love it even at wide open like that. Regulator failed, so now its just deadheaded
Sounds a lot like what my brother tried on his car… though he didn't have any detonation problems and didn't really gain anything.

What pump are you using to get >160 psi?

That's about 190lb/hr water. A lot of water but should be well within the range that works. What are you using to activate it? Is it boost refrenced? How big a tank are you using for it?

What do you think?
I still think that you're wasting your time trying to measure temps. If the car is detonation limited, I think it would be much more interesting to compare how much boost/timing/fuel you can run making best power with and without.

As you add water you should be able to pull a little gas. I suspect that with that amount of water you'll be able to run very lean and still have power increases, like in the 12.5-13:1 range.
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