H2O injection effectiveness results, is this accurate?
H2O injection effectiveness results, is this accurate?
Hey guys,
I built a temp sendor for my roots car. I couldn't tap the lower intake for a temperature sensor because of the intake I built and the casting thickness. I did however have a spare vaccum nipple under the blower and a port above the blower.
Heres a small sketch of what I did.
Pressure from the outlet of the blower blows threw the vaccum line to a chamber with the temp sender... then pushed back threw a meter vaccum line to the inlet of the blower.
the idea is to get pressurized air to move pass the temp sensor which should show how warm the air is.
Well, i took it out for a test drive with the water/alcohol injection on I didn't see a rise of more than 2 degrees under 9psi during 2nd gear pulls. I haven't tried it without the injection yet.
I built a temp sendor for my roots car. I couldn't tap the lower intake for a temperature sensor because of the intake I built and the casting thickness. I did however have a spare vaccum nipple under the blower and a port above the blower.
Heres a small sketch of what I did.
Pressure from the outlet of the blower blows threw the vaccum line to a chamber with the temp sender... then pushed back threw a meter vaccum line to the inlet of the blower.
the idea is to get pressurized air to move pass the temp sensor which should show how warm the air is.
Well, i took it out for a test drive with the water/alcohol injection on I didn't see a rise of more than 2 degrees under 9psi during 2nd gear pulls. I haven't tried it without the injection yet.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
I doubt that you'll get very accurate numbers that way, the air will cool as it's going down the plumbing and the temp sender needs a bit of heat to get a reading. At best you'll have slow response.
If you're doing this to try test before and after temps for testing water injection, I'm not sure that I see the point in wasting your time. Do the math, you'll find that it will take an obscene amount of water to get a reasonable temp drop in the intake, and 2x that in alcohol to get the same drop. Instead worry about what it's doing to detonation (in a perfect world you'd be able to get the atomized water into the chamber without it vaporizing in the intake, in other words, get no charge cooling from it)
If you're doing this to try test before and after temps for testing water injection, I'm not sure that I see the point in wasting your time. Do the math, you'll find that it will take an obscene amount of water to get a reasonable temp drop in the intake, and 2x that in alcohol to get the same drop. Instead worry about what it's doing to detonation (in a perfect world you'd be able to get the atomized water into the chamber without it vaporizing in the intake, in other words, get no charge cooling from it)
The line going to this is 3/8's rubber so i don't think that it can transfer any heat energy.. I understand its not as optimal as a temp probe right inthe blowers path but like i said before.. thats not a option right now.
I'm waiting on my new injectors (tomarrow) before I try before and after without alcohol/water.
you got to remeber that most centrifical cars will only gain 5-10 degrees (intercooled) in the same quick burst 3-4 seconds. So i don't think my first try and 3 degrees can be so far off.
anthor thing.. i'm spraying THREW the blower.. which I think would be awesome for atomozation and vaporization.
As far as quantity.. i'm spraying a 15 gph inozzel rated at 60psi at over 160psi. The reason? I had a regulator onthe car to tone down the pressure and it seemed to love it even at wide open like that. Regulator failed, so now its just deadheaded
What do you think?
I'm waiting on my new injectors (tomarrow) before I try before and after without alcohol/water.
you got to remeber that most centrifical cars will only gain 5-10 degrees (intercooled) in the same quick burst 3-4 seconds. So i don't think my first try and 3 degrees can be so far off.
anthor thing.. i'm spraying THREW the blower.. which I think would be awesome for atomozation and vaporization.
As far as quantity.. i'm spraying a 15 gph inozzel rated at 60psi at over 160psi. The reason? I had a regulator onthe car to tone down the pressure and it seemed to love it even at wide open like that. Regulator failed, so now its just deadheaded
What do you think?
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
Originally posted by rooster433
The line going to this is 3/8's rubber so i don't think that it can transfer any heat energy.. I understand its not as optimal as a temp probe right inthe blowers path but like i said before.. thats not a option right now.
The line going to this is 3/8's rubber so i don't think that it can transfer any heat energy.. I understand its not as optimal as a temp probe right inthe blowers path but like i said before.. thats not a option right now.
you got to remeber that most centrifical cars will only gain 5-10 degrees (intercooled) in the same quick burst 3-4 seconds. So i don't think my first try and 3 degrees can be so far off.
anthor thing.. i'm spraying THREW the blower.. which I think would be awesome for atomozation and vaporization.
As far as quantity.. i'm spraying a 15 gph inozzel rated at 60psi at over 160psi. The reason? I had a regulator onthe car to tone down the pressure and it seemed to love it even at wide open like that. Regulator failed, so now its just deadheaded
What pump are you using to get >160 psi?
That's about 190lb/hr water. A lot of water but should be well within the range that works. What are you using to activate it? Is it boost refrenced? How big a tank are you using for it?
What do you think?
As you add water you should be able to pull a little gas. I suspect that with that amount of water you'll be able to run very lean and still have power increases, like in the 12.5-13:1 range.
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