just wanted to get some opinions on the motor im planning on building. Plan on 8.5 to 1 comp want to supercharge

Block: 4 bolt main roller cam 1pc rms planning on splaying main caps

Crank: Eagle forged 3.75

Rods: lunati pro mod or pro billet 5.7 cant decide pro billet might be excessive

Pistons: srp forged dished pistons 4.030

Cam: ? planning on calling comp for suggestion. .......... You guys got any?

Heads: Trickflow23 deg.

Valvetrain: 1.6:1 crane gold rockers guide plates and hardened push rods

Induction: Superam plenum runners and base. Cant decide between bbk 52mm or 58mm throttle body

Injectors: acell 30lb? is that too much

sorry this is so long just want some opinions i plan to procharge and a 100 shot thanks in advance for the input

 

This is partially reprinted from another post I made so some may not be pertinent, but I hope it helps

I did this towards a 383 but this suggestion is suitable for those building a 350, 383, or 406 blower or nitous.

if you want all forged assembliy parts use one of the many reputable shops that use ebay as a affordable selling outlet for thier parts. There is no way they could have 1000's of positive feedbacks if they were screwing people. use that as a tool to choose your parts.

but the best way to do it is to find a 383 crank:

cast steel 81-30-03/9000 series (better than regular cast) good enough for most

5140 Forged heavier but very strong for alot of racing

4130 steel nice and strong good enough for many racing applications

4340 forged! top of the line material for max effort motors


remember due to the nature of the counter weight contour you must decide before buying the crank rods or pistons whether you will be using a 5.7" long rod or a 6.0" long rod. since a 5.7" rod is very sufficient, it allows for a larger piston ring due to less ring crowding in the piston crown design, and just plain old costs less for the parts as a whole, this is what I recommend. also if the block you have to use is one piece rear main seal some pricing may vary.

so then find some rods (5.7"):

"sportsman" I-beam rods

4130 Eagle SIR rods good enough for most

same from scat also good enough for most

same rod in 5140 from CAT engine racing known as prowlers also good enough for most

race 4340 I-beam rods

Maybe CAT engine

Scat

race 4340 H-beam rods

CAT engine racing

Scat brand

Eagle brand

choosing between race I beam and H beam is a personal preferrence not a desirability issue. many times thier weights for the race versions are similar. there are some other huge billet pieces also.

then find some pistons

Forged

Probe I have heard these are made from TRW/speedpro forging slugs

Lunati

Wiseco



Please understand there are things to consider such as compression (the heads, fuel, street or track applications) that may not be addressed in those piston selections but they are purely exemplary. You can build a pretty nice engine by using ARP rod bolt and prepped stock rods a stock or cast crank that is new or inspected or both and forged pistons with a power adder. The block to be used, if it is a 2 piece or 1 piece rear main seal. If it will need to be bored .030, .040, .060 inch over.

I recommend that once you choose/purchase your main rotating components that you engage your favorite machine shop to balance the assembly, get your rings and bearings for you, do the block machine work and help you with your valve train geometry stuff. This promotes a good relationship with your machinist/builder etc. You wouldn't bring eggs to a restraunt and ask them to make you a cheaper omlete. If you buy too much the machinist will likely rape you on the labor and remaining parts, but they are used to people bringing thier own crank, rods, pistons, block, and heads. This is the best way I know how. If you go to a machinist and he begins badmouthing your parts choice find another machinist immediately. Also most machinists wont stand behind the failures of parts you didnt purchase from them. You may save a little in the beginning but its on you if it breaks.