I want to spray my 'bird, (lb9 and a t-5) It is completely stock, save hooker exhaust, 100k miles. I have done a fair bit of reading, and still have some questions;

1. I have a manual, and have read I shouldnt spray in first gear, how would I do that? I'm not fond of the idea of; hit clutch, find and flick activation switch, grab next gear, floor again. Or is this a non-issue

2. I Know I should run a wet kit, is this one any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

Or should I be looking at something else?

3. I'm guessing I need a window switch to avoid blowing the motor on a missed shift, but where should I set the rpm activation points, (2000, 2500, 3000???) and do I need to have it shut off slightly before each shift, or not power-shift, and leave it to the WOT switch?

Any help would be very much appreciated...

 

I have an automatic still, so I don't know how different it is to drive stick with a manual, but...

The arming switch (toggle switch) would stay on the entire time you race. Then you can have it set up a few different ways.

For instance, on my car, I have the toggle switch that I turn on before the race. Then I have a microswitch mounted on a custom bracket I made to hold it against the lever on my pedal. When I'm at WOT, my nitrous kicks in. First gear, second gear, it doesn't matter.

RPM window switch = required for manual in case of missed shifts like you said. Set activation at 3000rpm and cut-off at like 5500rpm (well, I'd say a few hundred RPM more than where you shift..wherever that may be).

WOT switch is also nice, that way it doesn't get activated at part-throttle. I've also heard of some people adding a "clutch switch" which turns off the nitrous as soon as the clutch is pressed a little bit. That also prevents problems, though a window switch would cover pretty much the same thing.

Fuel pressure and oil pressure switches aren't bad ideas either. In my case, all I'm running is the arming switch and WOT switch, but it's best to have more than that.

I'm going to get a fuel pressure guage and a nitrous guage soon enough so I know where those are at all the time so I don't need a fuel pressure switch.

 

Oh, and that's a nice kit, though pricey. Try to find a used kit if you don't mind. There is usually nothing wrong with them (they are designed to be used, after all!) and they will be a LOT cheaper. I scored my first wet kit for $175 and sold it for $400 to buy my dry kit for $200. The wet kit needed a main feed line. My dry kit needed nothing but a partial refill, but I do plan to get a guage for it, like I said.

 

dont forget depending on what your timing is set at, to retard it a few degrees to prevent detonation.

you can play with the on-off rpm range to fit within your power range, but it's usually best to set the on around 3k, helps with traction, and also to prevent bent rods

Summit i think has a better price then what that ebay add was.

 

Yeah, retard timing 1-2* for every 50hp I think the rule is? Something like that and get plugs that are 1 stage colder for every 50hp (after 100hp).

 

Thanks guys Do I need to do an ignition upgrade too? Timing is at the stock 6* base, do I still need to retard it? I take it there is no problem with spraying through 1st? Thanks again!!