Start with L98 block

Splayed four bolt mains.
Eagle Forged 3.75" stroke crank
Eagle Forged 6" Rods
Je Forged Pistons with -16cc dish.
AFR 185cc heads, with additional exhaust work

Induction

Holley Stealth Ram Ported to 1205 intake, fully ported , polished runners, radiuses, etc.
52 mm TB
LS1 28.5lb injectors
Custom Fuel lines, with MAgna Fuel By Pass Regulator
AeroMotive pump
MAF

CAm Shaft

Comp NR276HR-113

1.6 Roller Rockers

Heads milled to Create 10.1:1 Compression with the pistons.

N2O will be 5151 plate jeted to 200 hp max.

MSD timer to pull timing on hit. MAy run progessive controller if needed.

Ignition

MSD replacement billet distributer
MSD 6 AL
MSD Coil
MSD 8.5 mm wires

1 5/8" HEadman shortys and y pipe.
Catco 3" cat
3" catback with Hooker Aero chamber muffler

TH700R4
3000 stall lock up converter.
3.55 gears



What do you think? Air dyno guesses?

 

I wouldn't mill the AFRs to hit a compression number. They specifically advise against it with a warning about hurting it's flow. Whether that's true or not, who knows, but you can hit almost 10:1 by zero-decking the block to the pistons and using a typical .041" head gasket just as easily.

1-3/4" headers would be my choice, even if you weren't going to run nitrous.

I assume you're talking about a wet nitrous system with those little 28# injectors?

Looks like a good plan.

Forgive me if I am wrong about this but I beleive you posted this subject in multiple forums. If so, for future reference, you shouldn't do that.

 

1-3/4" headers.

The cam specs are not listed on the website, please post them. But I'm guessing they're on the small side.
Personally, I think the entire car is on the small side for a 383. 185cc head? Why?

 

Well, I posted in the power adder forum, but got no response.

If the AFR's don't need miiled, I won't.


Cam

224 236

.536" .555"

113 lobe separation.

Smaller cam, smaller heads for better street driving, response.

Thanks

 

230/244 - just a blind stab, get 2nd, 3rd, opinions...
3000 stall
200cc heads
3.73 gears.

The bigger cubes will keep everything more streetable.

 

If it were me I would save a little money I would not splay the main bolts. I would use arp main bolts. It will hold the kind of power you want. Also the 4340 crank is nice but if I were trying to build a car to drive on the street and only run in the low 10s I personally like the scat and eagle cast steel cranks. As for the rods the scat and eagle I beams are also good. Now for the heads I would use the AFR 195s and the specs FREEBIRD gave look great also. My last combo was a 380ci motor 4.155" bore 3.5" stroke I used a scat 9000 series crank with Manley sport master I beam rods and JE pistons. Car was street driven and ran 11.10 on motor and 9.6 on spray (275 hp kit). This was with two bolt main and with the AFR 195s I have also done some 355 ci motors with stock cranks and stock X rods with arp bolts and another with eagle sir rods.The fastest stock crank I put together had the eagle rods and went 10.2 on the spray and 11.7 on motor (225hp kit). the other 355 ran 10.70 on a (180 hp kit).The reason I like the cast cranks and the I beam rods are mainly for the weight savings I also prefer to use light pistons the cheaper ie. TRWs are heavy and have a weak spot at the oil ring rides in.