Supercharger HELP
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: ohio
Car: 88IROC vert and a 83 w/evo body
Engine: 400 and 350
Transmission: T56 and 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323 and 373
Supercharger HELP
I have two issues:
1. I can't feel the difference with the supercharger installed. Sure makes a lot of noise but can't seam to feel the power at take off.
2. I can't keep my dipstick from blowing oil out and spitting all over the place.
Please help.
1. I can't feel the difference with the supercharger installed. Sure makes a lot of noise but can't seam to feel the power at take off.
2. I can't keep my dipstick from blowing oil out and spitting all over the place.
Please help.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: '85 TA
Engine: 350 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 posi 9bolt
At least you sound fast.
Do you have a boost gauge? You're not going to feel added power until the boost kicks in, which probably isn't right off the line, rather as the rpm's increase. How many pounds of boost is your supercharger set to give you?
For your oil problem, how is your PCV valve run? I had to run a tube out to the botttom of the engine on the passenger side PCV valve, b/c I have some blow-by issues and oil/smoke pours out of it at times. Are you sure it's the dipstick tube and not your PCV system?
Do you have a boost gauge? You're not going to feel added power until the boost kicks in, which probably isn't right off the line, rather as the rpm's increase. How many pounds of boost is your supercharger set to give you? For your oil problem, how is your PCV valve run? I had to run a tube out to the botttom of the engine on the passenger side PCV valve, b/c I have some blow-by issues and oil/smoke pours out of it at times. Are you sure it's the dipstick tube and not your PCV system?
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Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Car: 88IROC vert and a 83 w/evo body
Engine: 400 and 350
Transmission: T56 and 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323 and 373
I don't have a boost gauge yet but soon. It is suppost to have 8lbs. I done the PVC thing but now it's right over the exauast manifold, so I think I need to move that, but the dip stick is still spitting a little. You can tell because the handle has oil on it and all the way up the stick has fresh oil on it.
If you can't feel any difference in power, you're probably running lean. That would also explain the dipstick popping out. You probably detonated and broke a ring or ring land. Do a compression check.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 106
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From: Fort Hood Texas
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 5 speed
Stop driving the car!!!! All the boost is pushing past your rings and postively charging your crankcase, and the easy way for the pressure to escape is your oil dip stick. This was happening to a friend of mine and we were baffled until three broken pistons later we had our awnser (ring lands broke, pistons crack at the edges). Do a compression test, more importantly to a leak down test. After my experience I would stop driving the car and make sure your engine isn't on its way out!!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 333
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From: albuquerque
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 L98 w/ D-1SC
Transmission: POS 700-R4
If you can't feel any difference in power, you're probably running lean. That would also explain the dipstick popping out. You probably detonated and broke a ring or ring land. Do a compression check.
I concur, and will also add that you never, ever want to run a non-stock boosted car without a boost guage. It's less important with superchargers than with turbos, but you absolutely need to know that your car isn't overboosting, and it helps to know if you aren't boosting at all for some reason (major boost leaks, etc).
Obviously you are boosting if you're kicking out the dipstick. It's common practice in higher mileage DSM's running high boost (20+) to crush the dipstick tube to hold it in, lol. I ran my 11 second passes like that, and it's still going strong at 120k. While that's just a lot of blow-by from worn rings, you may have worse problems which sounds like the case if it doesn't have any more power (at any RPM that is, as a centrifugal blower won't have any more power off the line, as was stated).
Hopefully you haven't broken anything. At any rate, don't drive it until you figure it out. Good luck!
Obviously you are boosting if you're kicking out the dipstick. It's common practice in higher mileage DSM's running high boost (20+) to crush the dipstick tube to hold it in, lol. I ran my 11 second passes like that, and it's still going strong at 120k. While that's just a lot of blow-by from worn rings, you may have worse problems which sounds like the case if it doesn't have any more power (at any RPM that is, as a centrifugal blower won't have any more power off the line, as was stated).
Hopefully you haven't broken anything. At any rate, don't drive it until you figure it out. Good luck!
Last edited by Steven89Iroc; Feb 16, 2006 at 05:21 PM.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
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From: ohio
Car: 88IROC vert and a 83 w/evo body
Engine: 400 and 350
Transmission: T56 and 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323 and 373
Well I finally got the oil dip stick fixed. I was the dip stick. It was the PVC on the drives side causing the trouble.
Now I have more trouble. Every time I floor the car in short bursts it will start idling bad and die. If your going down the highway and floor the car all is well. If your in town and floor the car for a short burst and start slowing down the idle drops to 300 back up to 750 and does this until it dies. once it's dead turn the key and runs like nothing happened every time.
I checked the fuel pressure and its between 50 to 60. I get no engine codes either.
I posted this twice and can get no help, so please if anyone has any thoughts I need help.
Now I have more trouble. Every time I floor the car in short bursts it will start idling bad and die. If your going down the highway and floor the car all is well. If your in town and floor the car for a short burst and start slowing down the idle drops to 300 back up to 750 and does this until it dies. once it's dead turn the key and runs like nothing happened every time.
I checked the fuel pressure and its between 50 to 60. I get no engine codes either.
I posted this twice and can get no help, so please if anyone has any thoughts I need help.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
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From: IN THE LBC
Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by calebzman
At least you sound fast.
Do you have a boost gauge? You're not going to feel added power until the boost kicks in, which probably isn't right off the line, rather as the rpm's increase. How many pounds of boost is your supercharger set to give you?
For your oil problem, how is your PCV valve run? I had to run a tube out to the botttom of the engine on the passenger side PCV valve, b/c I have some blow-by issues and oil/smoke pours out of it at times. Are you sure it's the dipstick tube and not your PCV system?
At least you sound fast.
Do you have a boost gauge? You're not going to feel added power until the boost kicks in, which probably isn't right off the line, rather as the rpm's increase. How many pounds of boost is your supercharger set to give you? For your oil problem, how is your PCV valve run? I had to run a tube out to the botttom of the engine on the passenger side PCV valve, b/c I have some blow-by issues and oil/smoke pours out of it at times. Are you sure it's the dipstick tube and not your PCV system?
Thanks!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 805
Likes: 3
From: Charleston, SC
Car: '85 TA
Engine: 350 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 posi 9bolt
I didn't prevent the blow-by, I only re-routed it so that the smoke would blow out the back of the car instead of in the engine bay and to the passenger compartment.
The first pic is of the drivers side PVC which is connected to a vacuum source (back of carb T'ed in with the brake booster).
The second is the passengers side, where originally the silver tube went to the side of the air cleaner. Since I no longer could do that, I connected a 3/4" piece of heater hose to it and routed the hose below the car in the last pic.
Hopefully this helps.
For me, I'm getting a lot of blow-by even at idle. Before it would only be a problem during WOT. I'm also guessing that it is the reason for why I'm going through more oil than usual too.
The first pic is of the drivers side PVC which is connected to a vacuum source (back of carb T'ed in with the brake booster).
The second is the passengers side, where originally the silver tube went to the side of the air cleaner. Since I no longer could do that, I connected a 3/4" piece of heater hose to it and routed the hose below the car in the last pic.
Hopefully this helps.
For me, I'm getting a lot of blow-by even at idle. Before it would only be a problem during WOT. I'm also guessing that it is the reason for why I'm going through more oil than usual too.
Last edited by calebzman; Feb 20, 2006 at 02:48 PM.
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