Like the title says, I'll be getting my new setup dynoed tomorrow. There's a place in Akron, OH called Akron horsepower. They charge $50 for 3 pulls and an extra $10 for the air/fuel ratio. I'm going to have them use the a/f ratio to see how close my gauge is reading.

So, if anyone has anything that they wish they would've done or regretted at the dyno, let me know so I can get the most out of my time.

 

yea- if the guys ask you if you want to spray your car with nitrous- dont!

Our local shop up here has been known to open a nitrous bottle into your intake system

 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

why dont you get ahold of Leo at
GMR SPEED
http://gmrspeed.com/

1669-302 W130th ST
Hinckly,OH 44233
1-866-899-4948

http://video.ls1tech.com/player.aspx...B-46023C7983BA


If ya do Tell him one of the guys form "The Hollywood KNIGHHTS" youngstown chapter sent ya his way.

 

bring a camera

 

Yeah, bring a camera. Ask how it is calibrated for the torque converter and auto trans. Most importantly, don't try to get more out of it by cranking the boost and blowing it up.

EDIT - take notes.

 

Video cam.

 

Well, what are the results? What is your max boost? I am curious to know cause I still have not had a chance to dyno mine.

I hope everything went well....

 

sorry about the double posts

 

a

 

I took my car to Akron Horsepower which has a chassis dynamometer. I did three runs and boost was set at 10psi. The first run was the best since the engine went lean both times after. So, I'll increase the secondary jetting to eliminate that problem. Otherwise, it ran great!



The owner drove the car during the runs. He had the air/fuel ratio on the screen beside the car to make sure it didn't go lean.

I was happy with the results



Fuel pressure stayed at 12psi, which is right where I want it.



Not bad for a 305. =)

edit: I scanned the graphs, so the quality is better now.

 

Climbing up to a 12:1 air fuel ratio isn't really lean. I bet if you leaned it out to 12.5, you'd pick up even more hp, but there is less safety room for detonation. Don't forget that the air/fuel ratio affects burn & timing should be adjusted for it (depending on how nuts you want to go) to maximize the hp. It's good getting the baseline! Now when you start adding more boost & better exhaust, you'll be able to see exactly what the changes do.

 

You're right, the 12:1 ratio is what I want at the higher rpm's, but the problem was that it only happened during the 1st run. On the 2nd and 3rd runs, the ratio went to 13:1 and higher, so the guy had to shut down the engine before 5500rpm (getting only 225 hp). So, that's why we were thinking that since the intercooler wasn't really cooling the intake air like it normally would be, that the air was getting warmer, increasing the a/f ratio.

Also, during the runs (and normally) the total timing is 34 degrees with 1degree/psi removed with the boost retard. It seemed to work well.

Heh, this engine will probably not see more boost. What's wrong with my exhaust?

 

Sorry - I don't know what your exhaust is. Turbos are very sensitive to back pressure, and most could benefit from a nice 4" downpipe, which is nearly impossible to fit into a thirdgen. I just assumed it was on the smaller side, so a future larger exhaust would pick up another 30 hp later on. I know the twin 2.5's I've got are really limiting for me, but the engine is a little larger... Can you weld an NPT bung onto the intake pipe, and grab an IAT sensor to see how your intake temps react? A 2 bar MAP sensor would be good to see as well, although a video camera on a boost gauge does the same.

 

Yeah, a 4" downpipe would be ideal, but 3" was the biggest that I wanted to try to snake around to the back. I am interested in one of those air temp. sensors. Welding in a bung would be no problem, but they look expensive.

 

Junkyard and grab a GM IAT sensor. Even a coolant sensor works, but it's too slow to react accurately on the dyno.