87CamaroZ28

Hopefully by the end of Jan. or the first of Feb. I will have N2O on the Formula. I found a used Nitrous Works wet kit with purge for $370. What kind of fuel pump should I be looking for? I plan on going with 100 shot maybe 150. Should I go for replacing the in-tank pump or add an in-line boost pump?

How does that price sound for this kit? It has everything: solenoids, hoses, bottle and mounts, fuel pressure safety switch, throttle activation switch(probably will not use), bottle pressure guage, TB plate, and I believe that is it. Anything else that I would need before I could hook up and use the kit? I am new to the N2O world and need some advice.

How could I run my fuel pressure guage up to the small cowl in the stock hood so I could watch it from inside the car? Would I need two Y-splitters to do so with the nitrous kit installed or no? Thanks again.

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87 Camaro Z28
LB9 305 TPI
Accel cap, rotor, and 8mm wires
K&N filters
1/8 mile: 9.8@69mph

91 Formula
L98 350TPI
Accel 8.8mm wires
Siamese Runners
Edelbrock Headers
Edelbrock 3" Cat-Back
Airfoil
K&N Cone Air Filter
AFPR
Shift-kit
Mallory Promaster Coil
1/8 mile: 8.8@78mph(wearing street tires)

Formula-91

If you're only planning on running a 100 to 150 shot, the stock fuel pump should do fine, provided that it's in good shape. I'm running a 175 shot thru mine and haven't had a problem.

IROCKZ4me

Chances are if the stock pump is in good shape it should be goo for your 150 shot. Be sure to install a fresh fuel filter though. You'd be suprised how many people overlook that. Also change it often as if the life of your engine depended on it (because it does). If you would like to add an extra margin of safety (and just replace the stock aging pump) with a better unit you can. either an intank pump or inline (booster) pump will work well. You can get a Walbro 255 ltr/hr intank pump for anywhere from $130 to $170 depending on where you shop. An inline pump+hardware will cost a little more but will be easier to install.
I would say that's about average for a good used kit.
In a hatchback car where the bottle is installed in the passenger compartment you will want a safety blowdown tube! In the event the bottle gets too hot & pops the safety valve you don't want it to fill the passenger compartment with a cloud of nitrous.
I would reccomend using the throttle switch, even if you want it to be activated by a push button or some other method. Just wire the switches in series so the throttle must be depressed and the button pushed to engage the system.
Also, if it didn't have one you will want to get a bottle heater + control for it. If you don't keep the bottle between 900 - 1050 PSI the system won't work properly. chances are it will always be well under 900 PSI without a heater. The actual pressure depends on how full the bottle is and what temperature it is at. My bottle even when full is only about 500 PSI at around room temp. You can imagine how much less nitrous it will flow at those low pressures. That leads to an overly rich system that is way down on power.
You might also want to check that fuel pressure safety switch. If it is adjustable it may be set to low & not protect the engine at all. If it is set to high it won't kick the solenoids. I check the pressure setting by hooking it up to an air compressor with a known accurate PSI gauge. Use an ohm meter acros the contacts & varry the air pressure aplied to it to see when the switch kicks off & on. It should be set at around 40 PSI.
Something else you would probably want is a nitrous filter. Install it on the inlet to the nitrous solenoid.
You would just need one Y and a length of hose the reach from the Y to where you plan to mount the gauge. You may also need an adapter at the gauge if it is pipe threaded. If it has an AN fittling on the gauge the same size as on the hose you won't need the pipe/AN adapter. Remember this is a super high pressure line at least 1200 PSI & maybe more. You must use hose & fittings approved for Nitrous oxide use. Start with the smaller jets & work your way up. Never mix up the jets. Always make sure they are paired properly.
Buy a good hooking set of tires & have fun.



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• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
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87CamaroZ28

My car is showing 135,000 on the odometer and I haven't talked to the first owner who I have heard re-built the car at 90,000. Whichever the case, I am approaching this as my car has 135,000 miles. Would 150 be pushing it or should I stay with 100, or am I just flat out asking for it by hooking up N2O to an engine with this high of mileage?

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87 Camaro Z28
LB9 305 TPI
Accel cap, rotor, and 8mm wires
K&N filters
1/8 mile: 9.8@69mph

91 Formula
L98 350TPI
Accel 8.8mm wires
Siamese Runners
Edelbrock Headers
Edelbrock 3" Cat-Back
Airfoil
K&N Cone Air Filter
AFPR
Shift-kit
Mallory Promaster Coil
1/8 mile: 8.8@78mph(wearing Falken streets
rolling off of the line)

SpRaYd91Z28

My car has 158,000 miles, and I challenge a stock Lt1 to keep up with me..hehe...I am spraying 125 shot of n20, and it eats those Ls1's up like they were running 13's...haha...I have a holley 255/ltr fuel pump just for saftey. The mods include headers, and a 2k stall, make sure ur timing is around 2degrees BTDC. N20 is safe if used properly. If u live in a cold area, I would deff. recommend a bottle warmer...those babies are wonderfull! Happy Spray'n!!!

ZaK

Hecubus

I'm running a 150hp shot in my 91 305 with 125 thousand miles on it with a 255lph pump and Holly fuel pressure reg. and it was working fine... just had to get timing and fuel presure to dial in.. once I got passed that it was great no problem..