i was just wondering i have a 600 edlebrock on my car and read on about the other mods! and was wondering... how hard is nitrous to install? because soon i will get a system. but,... which setup do you think is the best? i have narrowed it down to 2 or 3 choices which do you think? edlebrock performer(50-100hp) or the goood old NOS system? (again 50-100hp)? what do you need to do to install it correctly? do i leave the carb jetted stock for the boost? because i'll use this car as a daily driver also.? i heard you need extra fuel how do you get it?? bigger block pump with regulator? i reallly need great info!? please help with correct solutions.

ps read my mods to help decision!

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1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 160(882) heads,speed pro cam .447/.447 lift,222@.050 duration (327/350hp cam). Edlebrock torker2 and a 600edlebrock man choke(1405). 350 .40 over(356)

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) comp roller cam, and way better heads a 400 defintely in the works!

[This message has been edited by burnoutrpm (edited February 04, 2001).]

 

If you can install the carb then you can install the nitrous kit. It's about the same.
I like Nitrous Express.(NX)[*]Their instructions are extremely complete and easy to understand.[*]They rate their kits at rear wheel horsepower levels and guarentee it.[*]Most other brands are rated at crankshaft horsepower.[*]Their kits come with bigger solenoids than others kits rated at the same power.[*]If you later decide that you want to upgrade you can get a second stage add-on kit that works with the kit you already own, so you aren't wasting money on an entry level kit that you may not want later.[*]Their tech support is awesome, before durring and most important after you buy from them.[*]The quality of their components can't be beat.
If you get the nitrous kit and the GEN X kit you will have almost everything you need to do a profesional quality installation.
the nitrous kit includes this:[*]bottle & valve[*]bottle mounting brackets[*]bottle to hose adapter [*]nitrous feed hose & fittings [*]nitrous solenoid[*]fuel solenoid[*]solenoid mount brackets[*]spray plate, gaskets & studs[*]nitrous & fuel jets[*]arming & activation switches[*]relay[*]wire & terminals[*]bolts, nuts & screws[*]instructions & tuning tips

The GEN X kit includes:[*]nitrous pressure gauge & fitting[*]nitrous bottle blow down tube & rupture disc[*]bottle heater[*]bottle pressure sensor & fitting for heater[*]switch, relay & wire for heater[*]fuel pressure safety switch & fitting[*]nitrous filter

Other things you will need:[*] dedicated fuel pressure regulator for nitrous system[*]fuel hose & fittings[*]thread sealer[*] fusable links for the power wires to the solenoids & the bottle heater[*]new tires lol

Chances are that straight out of the box it isn't jetted excactly right for your application with or without nitrous. But it is probably close. Usually they are a little rich straight from the box. You don't need to jet the carb any differently for use with nitrous than for use without it.
Nitrous won't affect drivability at all when it isn't in use.
You didn't say what pump/regulator you are using now. A good mechanical or electric pump is a good Idea. You will want two regulators, one for the carb and one for the kits fuel solenoid. NX recomends Holley regulator part #12-803 for their kits.

Here are NXs minimum fuel pump recommendations based on ¼ mile ETs while using nitrous.[*]10.00 and slower = 110 GPH[*]9.00 - 9.99 = 255 GPH[*]8.00 - 8.99 = 300 GPH

With the mods you listed you can expect ETs slower than 10.00 (at least until the 400 build and/or lots more mods) Holley part # 12-327 is a 110 GPH pump (about $55). Holley part # 12-327-13 is a 130 GPH pump (about $65).

A single plane intake like you already have works better with plate type nitrous systems than dual planes do. however a lot of people do use plate systems with dual planes. The reason for using a single plane is better fuel distribution and atomization when the mix reaches the combustion chamber. the ports in dual planes have sharp turns in them. The fuel has more mass than the nitrous its mixed with. When the mix makes a sharp turn in the intake the lighter nitrous makes the turn but the heavier fuel continues straight into he wall of the port. This is called fuel dropout & it causes a lean condition in the combustion chamber. If you do want to use the dual plane you are better off with a port fogger type system than with a plate type system. The Air Gap RPM has bosses for port foggers.
With a dual port + plate system the more gradual the bends in the ports the better off you are. You can see more about that here


I think that is about everything!?!?

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Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro

• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

My IROC-Z
EFI Performance Club on Yahoo
Club IROC-Z


[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited February 04, 2001).]