What is the best engine to turbocharge??
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,675
Likes: 3
From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
What is the best engine to turbocharge??
Wasap Everyone!! In a couple of months i'm going to be ready to buy a 91 or 92 z28. I'm not sure what the engine codes are for the 5.7ltr's (L98 is one i know) but I know im gonna buy a 5.7ltr. I want to eventually build up the internals of the engine, and turbocharge it, but I want to know if you guys think this is a good engine to turbocharge? What engine do you guys think will be the best? I was planning on building the engine for low compression (like 7:1 or 8:1) and run high boost (like max 20 pounds). If there is a better engine for this application besides whatever im gonna get in a 91 or 92 z28 (assuming the crappiest version of the 5.7ltr) I want to swap it instead of putting money into a crappy engine. If I do end up with a L98 should I stick with it? Would a LT1 be better?? I dont mind swapping engines cuz the stock 5.7ltr and trans would fit in a 94 s10 (which i plan to make a daily driver) and make a killer sleeper!! thanks!!!
------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Whasup cuz,
That is a hard question to answer, 'cause it is going to depend on a lot of answers from you. I would say start @ the other end, what is the goal? are you looking for a 850 hp motor for the track or are you looking for 500 hp for pounding on?
how are you going to control fuel? if you are going to use a FelPro system that you can use a 3 Bar map, then you can go 20 psi no problem. maybe it would be smarter to go with a large small block (400 ci), with 8 or 9 to 1 & less boost (<15 psi) so that you can use any number of ECM's that use 2 Bar maps.
in any case, I would suggest as a minimum a GOOD set of aluminum heads, forged pistons, roller valve train.
check out @ the botom of this post. there are a bunch of web sites to turbo cars. check them out & see thier method of madness & see what fits what you want to do. My motto is decide what you want to do. figure out how much HP you are going to need to get you there. go check the check book & see how long you are going to have to eat @ you uncles house to pay for it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000805.html
BW
------------------
Bobalos
aka Bob W.
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
r71chevy@earthlink.net
<><
That is a hard question to answer, 'cause it is going to depend on a lot of answers from you. I would say start @ the other end, what is the goal? are you looking for a 850 hp motor for the track or are you looking for 500 hp for pounding on?
how are you going to control fuel? if you are going to use a FelPro system that you can use a 3 Bar map, then you can go 20 psi no problem. maybe it would be smarter to go with a large small block (400 ci), with 8 or 9 to 1 & less boost (<15 psi) so that you can use any number of ECM's that use 2 Bar maps.
in any case, I would suggest as a minimum a GOOD set of aluminum heads, forged pistons, roller valve train.
check out @ the botom of this post. there are a bunch of web sites to turbo cars. check them out & see thier method of madness & see what fits what you want to do. My motto is decide what you want to do. figure out how much HP you are going to need to get you there. go check the check book & see how long you are going to have to eat @ you uncles house to pay for it.
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000805.html
BW
------------------
Bobalos
aka Bob W.
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
r71chevy@earthlink.net
<><
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,675
Likes: 3
From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
Howzit Bob! My goal is to get the best bang for my buck ... but my real world goal is to be able to beat 95% of the cars I might encounter in a street race. Not saying that I'm going to be doing alot of street racing (sh|t i already got a 103 in a 35) but I'm sick of imports ******* on domestics cuz they can beat em with a engine swap and nos or turbo. I want to show those die hard import guys what happens when you apply their formula (engine swap + power adder + loose weight) to a domestic. We have alot of fast domestic cars here on the island, but like 95% of them are built to run the 1/4. And usually, when an import calls out a domestic guy on the freeway, the domestic looses!!! I've seen it first hand!! I want to build mine to kick a$$ in a freeway race, and whatever 1/4 mile time I end up with i'll be happy with.
So I am looking for a 850 hp beast, but I wont be pushing it hard all the time cuz I strongly fear detonation. I thought about it with my dad for a while and thats when we came up with this low compression/high boost plan. I could run the engine with higher compression and lower boost, but in my mind that setup is asking for the engine to blow up because it is always being pushed hard (even on low boost). With low compression and higher boost I can control how hard the engine will be put to work with an electronic boost controller. So instead of the compression of the engine being the main deciding factor on how hard it gets pushed, the ammount of boost will decide. I dunno if that makes sense (hehe!) but I think about it this way. I can drive around on 6 pounds of boost in normal traffic and if I have the sudden need to go fast I can raise the boost to 15 pounds. And if I was @ the track I could push it a little and make a few runs @ 22 pounds, but then bring the boost right back down as not to push the engine hard anymore. People do this with high compression/low boost as well, drive around on 4 pounds and raise it to 9 when you wanna race, but still even @ 4 pounds, the engine is being pushed harder than a low compression engine. And the other perk was that I'll be able to run 87 or 89 octane gas (cheaper!! hehe). My dad had a 84 Suzuki 1000 Bike with a turbocharger he installed himself. This setup worked quite well for him and he was able to run 9's @ the track. But i'm not sure if this setup would work good for a v8!! hehe
I know this is a project that will take me well over a year (maybe even over 2 years considering I plan to do the complete K1 Evo kit as well) to complete and I want to do everything first class. In the end I want to have a one of a kind car on the island that I can take out and cruze or run 11's or something @ the tracks. Does it sound like i'm on the right track?? If this completely dosnt make sense, please tell me cuz I dont wanna be wasting money. Its gonna be @ least 6 to 8 months before I even start to work on the engine anyway so I got alot of time to think about it. Hey and thanks foir all your help!!
btw, here is a pic of my truck that I am selling to fund this crazy project!! I bet the police are happy there aren't too many 20 year old network engineers that are willing to dump their entire salary into a crazy 800 hp street terror!! hahaha!!!
------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
[This message has been edited by CrazyHawaiian (edited May 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by CrazyHawaiian (edited May 27, 2001).]
So I am looking for a 850 hp beast, but I wont be pushing it hard all the time cuz I strongly fear detonation. I thought about it with my dad for a while and thats when we came up with this low compression/high boost plan. I could run the engine with higher compression and lower boost, but in my mind that setup is asking for the engine to blow up because it is always being pushed hard (even on low boost). With low compression and higher boost I can control how hard the engine will be put to work with an electronic boost controller. So instead of the compression of the engine being the main deciding factor on how hard it gets pushed, the ammount of boost will decide. I dunno if that makes sense (hehe!) but I think about it this way. I can drive around on 6 pounds of boost in normal traffic and if I have the sudden need to go fast I can raise the boost to 15 pounds. And if I was @ the track I could push it a little and make a few runs @ 22 pounds, but then bring the boost right back down as not to push the engine hard anymore. People do this with high compression/low boost as well, drive around on 4 pounds and raise it to 9 when you wanna race, but still even @ 4 pounds, the engine is being pushed harder than a low compression engine. And the other perk was that I'll be able to run 87 or 89 octane gas (cheaper!! hehe). My dad had a 84 Suzuki 1000 Bike with a turbocharger he installed himself. This setup worked quite well for him and he was able to run 9's @ the track. But i'm not sure if this setup would work good for a v8!! hehe
I know this is a project that will take me well over a year (maybe even over 2 years considering I plan to do the complete K1 Evo kit as well) to complete and I want to do everything first class. In the end I want to have a one of a kind car on the island that I can take out and cruze or run 11's or something @ the tracks. Does it sound like i'm on the right track?? If this completely dosnt make sense, please tell me cuz I dont wanna be wasting money. Its gonna be @ least 6 to 8 months before I even start to work on the engine anyway so I got alot of time to think about it. Hey and thanks foir all your help!!
btw, here is a pic of my truck that I am selling to fund this crazy project!! I bet the police are happy there aren't too many 20 year old network engineers that are willing to dump their entire salary into a crazy 800 hp street terror!! hahaha!!!
------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
[This message has been edited by CrazyHawaiian (edited May 27, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by CrazyHawaiian (edited May 27, 2001).]
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
kden,
for 850, you are going to need lots of air, lost of fuel & a solid motor. that being said. a good crank, rods & forged pistons, are no brainers & if you ask me no serious bottom end comes out of my garage not studded & with a windage tray. the heads I would suggest aluminum & great flowing. I dont know what I would suggest for compression, guess that depends on the turbos. You are going to have to decide on how you are going to do the electronics, 'cause that is going to determine how easy or hard it is to get it to run well & how long it lasts. the hardware is just that hardware & it only cost money. pick up the phone & call around & I think that you will find that there are a lot of people that can get that together for you. the electroics is another story though, every one has an opinion & in the end what works for you is going to be the thing. what worked for every one else might not. I would bet that the cheapest way to go would be with a "TPI", in quotes cause it is going to have to flow some air, with one heck of a fuel pump & an FMU.
I would say that headers are going to be the stumbling block & getting someone to do them right & well is going to cost the $$$. once you get that done have a big intercooler mounted up & I think that the rest will pretty much be simple, from there.
Dont forget that all this is going to be for nothing, if you cant get it to hook up. you are going to have to have some work done out back & you will eventually blow the tranny out the bottom of the car, but my motto is worry about that when it happens.
Quite frankly, I think that all this is pretty much overkill. I bet that if you made your self a solid 400 something SBC, with aluminum heads, a great flowing exhaust & a plate or two of NOS you will find that you are going to hammer on most of the competition & get you where you want to go with ET's. There is NO WAY that any of the small 4 bangers ought to be smoking you on the freeway. this is where the torque of a V8 comes on & it ought to pull them 6 ways from tuesday. YEA you ARE going to get beat, admit it & move on. there are a LOT of fast cars there & the import cars are brutal. being from Hawaii, it surprises me how fast those cars are. Nuff said about that.
Read the last paragraph again & think about it. there are a LOT of very fast cars out there that dont have blowers or NOS & run them on the street.
BW
------------------
Bobalos
aka Bob W.
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
r71chevy@earthlink.net
<><
for 850, you are going to need lots of air, lost of fuel & a solid motor. that being said. a good crank, rods & forged pistons, are no brainers & if you ask me no serious bottom end comes out of my garage not studded & with a windage tray. the heads I would suggest aluminum & great flowing. I dont know what I would suggest for compression, guess that depends on the turbos. You are going to have to decide on how you are going to do the electronics, 'cause that is going to determine how easy or hard it is to get it to run well & how long it lasts. the hardware is just that hardware & it only cost money. pick up the phone & call around & I think that you will find that there are a lot of people that can get that together for you. the electroics is another story though, every one has an opinion & in the end what works for you is going to be the thing. what worked for every one else might not. I would bet that the cheapest way to go would be with a "TPI", in quotes cause it is going to have to flow some air, with one heck of a fuel pump & an FMU.
I would say that headers are going to be the stumbling block & getting someone to do them right & well is going to cost the $$$. once you get that done have a big intercooler mounted up & I think that the rest will pretty much be simple, from there.
Dont forget that all this is going to be for nothing, if you cant get it to hook up. you are going to have to have some work done out back & you will eventually blow the tranny out the bottom of the car, but my motto is worry about that when it happens.
Quite frankly, I think that all this is pretty much overkill. I bet that if you made your self a solid 400 something SBC, with aluminum heads, a great flowing exhaust & a plate or two of NOS you will find that you are going to hammer on most of the competition & get you where you want to go with ET's. There is NO WAY that any of the small 4 bangers ought to be smoking you on the freeway. this is where the torque of a V8 comes on & it ought to pull them 6 ways from tuesday. YEA you ARE going to get beat, admit it & move on. there are a LOT of fast cars there & the import cars are brutal. being from Hawaii, it surprises me how fast those cars are. Nuff said about that.
Read the last paragraph again & think about it. there are a LOT of very fast cars out there that dont have blowers or NOS & run them on the street.
BW
------------------
Bobalos
aka Bob W.
www.r71camaro.homestead.com
r71chevy@earthlink.net
<><
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,675
Likes: 3
From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
hey howzit Bob, thanks for all the info brah!! yeah its prolly gonna be a while before i actually get into building this engine. i wanna make sure everything is mapped out and will work before i start. like you said i still gotta work out the whole electronic system for the turbo's, still need to decide if im gonna use a carb'd engine or use fuel injection, still need to pick out the correct turbo's and the list goes on and on. hey at least i got something to keep me busy. in the mean time, im going to be beffing up the car in alot of other area's. im planning to run some pretty crazy numbers, so i wanna make sure everything is gonna be stable before i put the engine in there. right now im planning on (in this order):
1. interior ... hehe dosnt have much to do with the engine but you gotta be comfortable right?? the interior is gonna be first, going with the K1 interior kit, 5 pt seats, all kindsa misc interior stuff (pedals, shift *****, steering wheels, ect) and some pretty mean sounds (over 1300 watts).
2. wheels ... gonna get a nice set of year 2000 corvette wheels and adapters to fit the 3rd gen offset/backspacing. wanna go with polished (not chrome!) and a nice set of tires. I know adapters are not recommended when pushing high numbers (damn wheel might jus fly off!) but when i replace the rear, i prolly gonna get a 12 bolt and have the rear setup for corvette offset/backspacing so i'll only be running adapters in the front.
tranny ... gonna do the T56 swap. need to take it a step further tho i found out, gonna get a lakewood bellhousing and a hydrolic throw out bearing. also a mccleod street twin clutch (all recommended by other kickass thirdgen.org posters here on other threads, thanx guys!)
drivetran/rearend ... definately gonna replace the stock driveshaft with a carbon fiber driveshaft. Andre (who has a turbocharged 5.7 already just blew his 1LE driveshaft a cpl weeks ago I think, so those driveshafts wont cut it. also gonna get spohn torque arm and crossmember and whaever else i need to have a bulletproof drivetrain. still not sure what kinda rear end im gonna get but prolly gonna replace the stock with a posi 12 bolt with disc brakes and offset/backspacing set for a corvette (the Y2K wheels) and a set of 4.10 gears.
brakes ... still deciding between brembo and baer, but definately gonna need to upgrade the brakes to some 13" rotors and get the best setup I can (havent read into the technicalities yet).
suspension ... going to be setting the car up for SCCA. want to drop it about 2 inches and replce pretty much everything with the best replacement I can find. I wanna pull as close to 1 g on a skidpad as i can(tho prolly never gonna be able to test it) but yah, thing going be slammed and gonna handle good. one thing i stll wondering about is if I should drop it with spindles in the front.
exterior/bodykit ... gonna do the complete K1 Evo kit. will prolly take me a month to install it properly in my garage. then i'll need to have the bar that goes across he front spoiler cut and smoothed so it wont block the intercooler later. sending it off to the paint booth as son as im done and my friend is gonna spray it with House of Kolor II Chameleon Black/ForrestGreen paint. gonna replace those tacky driving lights with a set of PIAA ultrawhites.
by then the car will be pretty incredible and pretty much everything besides the engine (yeah the engine is only gonna get minor mods untill this point), so that will be the last thing left.
well anyway, sorry for writing so much again, but I better get back to work
hehehe latez brah
------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
1. interior ... hehe dosnt have much to do with the engine but you gotta be comfortable right?? the interior is gonna be first, going with the K1 interior kit, 5 pt seats, all kindsa misc interior stuff (pedals, shift *****, steering wheels, ect) and some pretty mean sounds (over 1300 watts).
2. wheels ... gonna get a nice set of year 2000 corvette wheels and adapters to fit the 3rd gen offset/backspacing. wanna go with polished (not chrome!) and a nice set of tires. I know adapters are not recommended when pushing high numbers (damn wheel might jus fly off!) but when i replace the rear, i prolly gonna get a 12 bolt and have the rear setup for corvette offset/backspacing so i'll only be running adapters in the front.
tranny ... gonna do the T56 swap. need to take it a step further tho i found out, gonna get a lakewood bellhousing and a hydrolic throw out bearing. also a mccleod street twin clutch (all recommended by other kickass thirdgen.org posters here on other threads, thanx guys!)
drivetran/rearend ... definately gonna replace the stock driveshaft with a carbon fiber driveshaft. Andre (who has a turbocharged 5.7 already just blew his 1LE driveshaft a cpl weeks ago I think, so those driveshafts wont cut it. also gonna get spohn torque arm and crossmember and whaever else i need to have a bulletproof drivetrain. still not sure what kinda rear end im gonna get but prolly gonna replace the stock with a posi 12 bolt with disc brakes and offset/backspacing set for a corvette (the Y2K wheels) and a set of 4.10 gears.
brakes ... still deciding between brembo and baer, but definately gonna need to upgrade the brakes to some 13" rotors and get the best setup I can (havent read into the technicalities yet).
suspension ... going to be setting the car up for SCCA. want to drop it about 2 inches and replce pretty much everything with the best replacement I can find. I wanna pull as close to 1 g on a skidpad as i can(tho prolly never gonna be able to test it) but yah, thing going be slammed and gonna handle good. one thing i stll wondering about is if I should drop it with spindles in the front.
exterior/bodykit ... gonna do the complete K1 Evo kit. will prolly take me a month to install it properly in my garage. then i'll need to have the bar that goes across he front spoiler cut and smoothed so it wont block the intercooler later. sending it off to the paint booth as son as im done and my friend is gonna spray it with House of Kolor II Chameleon Black/ForrestGreen paint. gonna replace those tacky driving lights with a set of PIAA ultrawhites.
by then the car will be pretty incredible and pretty much everything besides the engine (yeah the engine is only gonna get minor mods untill this point), so that will be the last thing left.
well anyway, sorry for writing so much again, but I better get back to work
hehehe latez brah------------------
--- Current Daily Driver ---
Maroon 1989 Camaro RS - Crappy 305 TBI / Auto
Hypertech Stage 2 Chip (and 160/ThermoStat)
2.5" Pipes, No Cat, Flowmasters (Dual)
GT Grant Wheel, %5 Tint all around, 50% on windshield
--- Next Project ---
1992 Camaro z28 - 5.7ltr / Auto
6 speed swap, engine internals, turbocharge, SCCA!!!!
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