how did the 1/8 mile times compare,how were u runnig out of injector?? i thought u installed those 24# injectors.or is the afpr ur using not boost/vacum referenced

 

It is, just didn't have it adjusted properly. Actually after the first run, I thought something was wrong with the tranny, lol. On the way home, adjusted the AFPR (actually raised it) and it would stop at 5000RPM (70MPH). Stopped again and lowered it and it still didn't shift, but still leveled off at 5700 (80mph). Definately getting a better o2 and AFR meter instead of trying to tune with a multi-meter and stock o2 .
First run : ----------Second run:
R/T ... .532 -----------.422
60' ... 2.482 ----------2.400
330 ... 7.109 ---------7.025
1/8 ... 11.025 --------10.950
MPH ... 62.77 ---------62.50
1000 ... 14.418 -------14.366
1/4 ... 17.365 --------17.349
MPH ... 74.49 ---------73.79

It would have definately been faster if it had shifted. The fist time at the track it didn't top out in second. Last night if I had it running right, believe it would have gone in third. Two weeks ago (when the water pump went and overheated at the track) did a 18.3 @ 78 MPH with the 1.7 rockers and a broken TV cable clip so it shifted into second at 3500. Once I get the cam, I'll post some more times.

 

Well, the availability of funds came sooner then thought - MegaSquirt will be here within two weeks .

 

Sounds like a good choice to me... you'll probably want to get a wideband O2 kit too. I'd get the XD-1 kit instead of the LC-1 from innovate if I could go back and do it again. Actually, now that the price of the holley wideband upgrade is $299 (from like $750), i'd probably have gotten that.

 

I'm going to get at least a three wire. With $1500 I have to get MS, o2 setup, posi,Daves UIM, heads P&P w/comp sring sets, and I just picked up a laptop this weekend (it's a Compaq with a PentiumIII and XP Pro, but I got it for $240). I was thinking of going with a Eaton carrier, but might go with a stocker to save some cash (Eaton is around $400).

 

dam somones getting serious over here lol, do i finally have some competition lmao
which ms did u go with?
dont get a stocker posi(auburn) ull just break it,get urself some 90+ 3rdgen axles and throw in a 4thgen lsd if ur not gonna get an eaton. atleast then u wont break the posi,the gears on the otherhand might be a diff story lmao

 

Like I said in the beginning of this post - I have/had enough money to buy a LS2, but want to make this a fun project. Yes you have had competition since the first thread I posted and you replied, Dave . Actually, I pulled some cash out of some of my investments and bought my wife a BMW for our 2yr ann. gift and kept some for the project Firebird, hehehe.

 

Got the LC1 WB o2 today, along with the cool cobalt autometer boost/vac guage. The AFR guage and MS1 with spark control and knock sensor circuit will be here soon!
After three days off, I got the timing set and gaskets so I could install the cam and would'nt you know I got a call to start some new jobs.
Looks like everything is comming together!

Also wanted to add that I just discovered my friend's shop has a tubing bender capable of bending 2.5" pipe and said if I pay for the pipe ($20 for 20ft) that I can use the bender as I wish. I know it won't be mendrel bends, but at least it's not a "krinkle" type bender.

 

hey man i used a reg tubing bender the first time i did my setup.DONT DO IT.those benders cant make the neds tight enough,not to mention if u have to cut one of those pipes on a bend the tubing is all shrunk and ****,so welding it to another piece it wont line up right.

i noticed a huge diff going from those type of bends to madrel bends on my charge pipes on my system.the extra cost of buying mandrel bends is well worth it

 

I just want to get the turbo on there right now. If I use this pipe first to "mock up" the system, a bunch of expensive mendrel bends won't be wasted.

 

By time you do the mockup setup and then send it to Miami Muffler to be mandreled with stainless, you could have just brought the car there and had it done and not waste your own time.

 

At this time it is a cost factor. I can get the mendrel bends (aluminized steel), but to use them for trial and error could get expensive. Not to mention I want this to be a "hands on" project. Just like the cam, for the heck of it I asked my buddy at Margate Auto how much to install (to save time) but at $45/hr(my price) it would still be close to $500! I could see if it was going to be less than $200 to go to Miami Muffler but the aluminized steel mendrels are going to be around that.

 

I understand about the hands on thing. Most of my projects are hands on. But I know when to let a professional do it.

Technically I am a professional car builder. Not a exhaust fabricator, not a painter, not a transmission guy. Alot of the fabrication I hand it over to a friend who is one and tell them how I specifically want it done.

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. I'll R&R trannies but typically won't open them (unless it's just for filter etc), or mess with A/C, paint. I've done some exhaust and enjoy welding, so this is something I'm willing to take on. Also the only way to learn is by trying it and talking with some good peeps. Do your own shop? If so, where I'd like to check it out.

 

Man you need to get the turbo done and come out to the track and race. Im going out tommorrow. I hope to break into the 14s. lol. hope you can come out. Hit me up.

 

HMMMM, can anybody guess what this is?!

 

nice is it a ms 1 or 2 ???
how much did ya pay for it ??

 

It is an aluminum box with a megasquirt inside and a RS-232 cable to tune/datalog. All on a steel table.

 

Here is some more eye candy, lol...


BTW, the flange is counter bored to accept a 2.5" pipe and still not to interfere with the exit gasses, but it is still going on my band saw to clean up the square edges.

The rough flange is sitting on the turbo with the plastic cover still on the outlet





The pipe was beat with a hammer to almsot match the turbo...


A closer view...

----------
Please, that is a stainless surgical cart, lmao
Got it from Sam's for <$100

 

im gonna make a suggestion something i didnt do the first time around.
order up a 3"-2.5 ex reducer from summit.the ones that taper down. this way u can install a 3 inch down pipe.the benifit over the 2.5 inch pipe is well worth the effort required to make it fit

 

It's a MS1 with spark and knock sensor circuitry, got it for $245 assembled...

 

not bad i paid 220 shipped for my ms1 setup to control spark and fuel, no knock circut i dont think.

 

Nice machine work. That pipe came out really nice too. How are you guys going to control the coolant fan with the MS?

EDIT: When you weld in the downpipe leave a gap between the pipe and the recess so you can put a good bead on the inside along with the outside weld.

 

mines wired to a manual switch, i like to leave mine on all the time cause it pulls air threw the intercooler.
id be more concerend about tcc lockup,though that can always be fixed with a manual switch, or a lockup kit.

though right now i have mine unhooked 4,000 stall + lockup is quite harsh

 

Key on = fan on
----------
Thinking about marketing the flanges, these are prototypes. For now I am going 2.5" through to the muffler.

 

Take a look at the 1985 series K-10 etc trucks. They had 700R4s that were non-computer controlled. They used a vacuum switch to activate the TCC. I have one that ran a TPI with 165 MAF ECM for years that still used the stock vacuum valve/diaphram to run the 700R4 TCC. TCI sells a kit for it, but it is just a vacuum valve and wire for about $70-$80.

 

Thanx, that is the second time today I got that advice. The first time was from the machinist that made the flange who will deny to his boss that he is a superb welder because they are soooo hard to come by down here (good ones anyways, lol).

 

do urself a favor installa cutout as close to the turbo as possible, but atleast 1ft downstream of the o2 sensor, the difference in spool time is about 500+ rpms


i wouldnt bother with the flanges there sold so dirt cheap on ebay with a 2.5 hole in them ud never make any money there like 10$'s on ebay for mild steel and 15$ for stainless

 

303 stainless, though. I would be selling mild steel and 304L or 316L. $20 looks like the price, and it's only for friends or 3rd genners - not for profit .

 

i persoanlly like the b@m kit that runs off the speedo cable so u can adjust the lockup mph though its a lil pricey i belive 125$'s if i remeber right

 

do urself a favor installa cutout as close to the turbo as possible, but atleast 1ft downstream of the o2 sensor, the difference in spool time is about 500+ rpms

he's right, its good stuff

 

I actually was thinking of using a straight down pipe, but might want to keep it stealth (even though my car looks like it's going 100mph even when in the driveway, lol).

 

talk to ttypecamaro when he did the install on his brothers he ran an open down pipe,looked to be about 2.5 ft long.he can tell u how loud it was,when i have my cutout open its not to loud.(think 350 with a 40 series flowmaster) but the drone is horrible,once the turbo spools up though it gets quieter but it whines like hell. sorta like a jet engine spinning up lol

 

Yeah, he told me, lol...
Unsure of those details yet, just want to get this thing turbo'd soon to let the guys know in your "track" thread what your kit will do with a nearly bone stock 3.1 will do...

MegaSquirt is going to make a big difference once it's under boost, though.

EDIT: DIYAutoTune has a 4bar MAP for $70, IIRC, hahah

 

oh dam thnx for the reminder lol i forgot the ms only goes to 21 psi with the map it ships with ill have to add that to my list, tunning and maxing my single turbo are the only reason i havent gone over 19-20 psi yet. the day im set to pull the motor out of the car to install the new one im taking my wastegate off and blocking the flange for it to see how much boost i can make before the stocker blows up lmao

 

Please take some vids of that, haha.

I'm still collecting parts for the hybrid that I want to run 11:1 with boost and see what happens...?

 

i still think 11-1 is gonna be to much.
but in therory with the small cyl diam,and the aluminu heads it SHOULD work out .but i still think ur going to severly limit ur boost level by doing that

then again ppl said i couldnt run 18 psi on stock bottom end either. lol

 

I got to talking to a guy at the track two years ago with a turbo transam who welded the wastegate shut and he said it ran 25psi. He saw the Buick T-type emblems on my car and wanted to find out what I was running.

If you have any luck with that 11:1 and boost, maybe my older brother can remote mount his 95 T/A with 10.9:.. either that or a 250 shot

 

11:1 with aluminum heads, hyper pistons, forged rods and a stock "forged" crank with good bolts. All I can say is there MUST be a good tune.

 

You might overspeed the turbo and blow that up first. Not saying you will, but be careful when doing that. Look at the boost you will end up with and how much CFM you are flowing and keep the turbo from going into overspeed. Otherwise, wheels will fly.

 

id liek to make a correction on the crankshaft bit. they arent forged,there nodular iron, but still rated for 400hp and 7,000 rpms

 

You actually just took the words out of my mouth! At first I thought about a rod poping through a leg or buttox, then the second thought was that Chinese turbo wouldn't handle it...

 

A big cam would help too. The stock LT1 11:1 guys get almost 10PSI before they come apart. That is what I heard, no real world experience on that though. I think forceinductions.com has a good thread where where an LT1 ran it out until the engine came apart. The boost was up there. I think it was at Jose's site....can't remember exactly.

 

Hence the quotations around the word "forged".

 

i wonder what cr would be if u used a 2.8 crank with 3.1 pistons,would lower the cr with the aluminum heads(forget the diff in pin hieght) but i dont know if u would pull the pistion to far down in the bore.and it would prolly be detonation prone. sad thing is i got my hands on some forged h beam small journal rods but here 6.0 lenght.
whats 8mm convertet to inches???
if its close enough u might be able to use 2.8 crank with a 6.0 rod with a 3.1 piston. would help bring piston speed down a bit at high rpms

 

Well, I already checked 3,1 pistons with a 2.8 crank and it would drop SCR to 5.xx:1, but that was with 5.7" rods. You my be on to something now, though...HMMMM

 

a better combination would be 3.4 block 3.4 piston with 2.8 crank and the 6.0 rod. would still leave u with 3.0-3.1L but with the benifit of the longer rod.and posibly 10.0-10.5-1 cr.

edit
2.8 stroke is 2.99
3.1/3.4 is 3.31

so thats .310 to play with.install a .300 longer rod and ur down to .010.
so it wouldnt move the pistion far enough i dont think
i have to look up pin hieghts for the 2.8 and the 3.1 and compression distances

 

That combo would give you 11.41:1 if the pistons were .030 over.

 

this is a lil off topic but is the 3.1L anything like a 3.4L grand am v6? Cause we put a to4b-90 on my friends car and he makes like 235fwhp at 3.5psi..... just thought i would throw that out there

 

with a 3.1 piston on a 2.8 crank it only moves the piston down 4 mm (.157").

The stroke is a total 8mm longer on a 3.1 because its 4mm higher at the top and 4mm deeper at the bottom.

So a 6" rod pushes it out of the block by about .142"