I just bought a Nitrous Express kit. It obviosly does not have a tpi plate, i have a shark nozzle. My question is where is the best location to put this nozzle at? I don't want to damage anything. Thanks for any help.

 

The closer to the TB the harder it hits, the further the softer it hits and the more careful you have to be with your WOT switch and any window/rpm switches.

In most cases people shoot for about 6” from the TB

 

Thanks alot. I got it all routed I just need to route the nitrous line to the bottle. I'll post my results.

 

well is it the wet or dry kit ??on a wet kit you want it as clost to the tb as possible. but if it is a dry kit you want it as far away from the tb as possible so the n2o has time to warm up before it enters the engine.

 

why would you want the nitrous to be warmer? it should be at its peak temperature (around 85*) when it comes out of the bottle, some of the power it makes is from the cooling effects if has on the combustion chamber..

 

Maybe so it takes up more air volume so you make less power and are more prone to a N2O backfire…

 

n2o is not 85*. The bottle is heated to 85* to increase the pressure inside of it. Nitrous itself is -127* F. And there is no reason to put a dry shot so far away from the TB. IMO, there is no reason to use a dry shot.

 

Like they said, colder at the intake is better. A dry shot is fine if you have a large enough fuel pump and injectors and / or fuel pressure. A good electronic fuel controller is needed if you go the dry shot and larger injectors.

 

yea that is the reason. its in the HP books nitrous bible, but i guess there wrong and your right, on the nozzle position and there wrong, lol. but i do agree that SOME dry kits are poopy, but there are dry kits when used at reasonable shot that are fine.

 

HUH??? The bottle is heated to keep the N2O at a steady pressure, no matter what the bottle temperature, it leaves the nozzle at roughly the same temp because that’s where the phase change from liquid to gas happens. That has NOTHING to do with nozzle location.

WRT to dry shots… I’ve always felt that they should be avoided for all but the smallest N2O shots since there is no way that you’ll ever get as accurate a a/f ratio with them as you would with a wet shot…

 

yeah sorry i didnt mean that nitrous was heated to 85* buts thats how it came out, i meant the bottle is heated to 85* to get it at its correct pressure. the few extra inches wont warm the nitrous enough to make a difference i wouldnt thing, if anything i would think it would just make it less effective, but im no expert

 

I'd like to comment on the first part of this. I do not believe, and no one can convince me that n2o will come out of a nozzle at 85*. I'm assuming everyone here has seen n2o being sprayed out of a nozzle in real time. Frost imediately forms on the nozzle and anything in the vicinity of the nozzle. If you think it comes out at "roughly 85*" please heat your bottle safely and spray n2o on your hand. Then tell me if it feels like 85*.

 

i've used both wet and dry on various aplications and i can say that the ZEX EFI dry kit that taps into your stock fpr vacuum port is probly the safest dry kit on the market, but all i've ever ran was a 50 shot and that is all i ever ran. i didnt have a wide band but my 02 guage did read in stoich so i trust it but like i said notihg past a 50 shot

 

When spraying N2O vaporizes at the nozzle, that phase change happens at -127*F.

I have no idea what about the zex setup makes it any safer then any other, they work the same way, you just don’t get it all prepackaged in a purdy burple box…

Again, I wouldn’t spray any real shot of spray dry…

 

just wanted to spread some knowledge in here : dry shots are used for enourmous shots of nitrous. a wet shot nozzle cannot flow as much nitrous as a dry shot nozzle can flow ...

 

???

How big a nozzle are you planning on running? Something like an NX shark nozzle will spray 250hp fuel and N2O or more. If you want more plumb the intake for a port setup or multiple nozzles/stages. It’s not like you’re going to hit most engines or cars with more then that all in one shot

I wouldn’t dare to even suggest, no matte what type of system they’re running a dry shot with a single nozzle over 150hp, and don’t feel comfortable with dry shots much over half that size.

 

there is nothing wrong with dry shots if your injectors are told to increase the fuel.

dry shots and wet shots are the same. they both add nitrous, and they BOTH add fuel. one adds fuel through the nitrous nozzle, and one adds fuel through the injectors.

if you wanna spray a 500 shot at your car, its gonna have to be dry. a wet nozzle cannot flow that big of a shot. only a dry nozzle can.

 

1- A wet shot uses the high pressure N2O stream to break up and disburse the fuel, so even a mediocre design keeps distribution relatively even. A dry shot does not and there is no good reason for fuel/n2o distribution to be at all even with one
2- Do you know anyone spraying 500hp in one stage and not with a port fogger setup?
3- You’re way past the realm of reality there, but I suppose that if you insisted it could be done with a wet shot using something like one of those “power ring” assemblies or a plate with 2 or more nozzles mounted in it, like 2 NX shark nozzles will support over 500hp. If you tried to do it with a dry shot, how would you add fuel? Most N2O systems add fuel at A/F ratios of 6-9:1, dry systems tend to be toward the bottom of that range for a safe tune when you end up with distribution problems, if nothing else for initial tuning. That means that you need to find an extra 60-65pph of fuel _per port_. For a traditional wet shot on a mild, 300-450hp small block that means that you’ll have to run 96pph injectors, probably more like 160’s on something like a monster big block that might actually be able to use a 500hp shot of N2O
4- Again, what kind of a vehicle/suspension/tire do you expect to be able to run a 500hp shot as one big hit?

 

as far as number 2, yes.

lots of mean cars in the streets of chitown, i guess you would have to see it to believe it.

you add fuel via tune. so we can all hear you claim "my car wont run off the nitrous" as they push it back up on the trailer. basically its : spray the world at the car and spend as little money as possible on it.

as far as one big hit, im sure some people do just drop 500 in and go, but others run a time delay.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626209

and while were at it lets look into when to spray (under 3k safe?)
im gonna spray out of the hole.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=562783

 

Ok, so you're listing 2 threads that for the most part disagree with what you're saying.... what's your point?

 

alright buddy you win? i guess.

this argument is pointless. i have proven that i am right and yet..

 

Proven right where? Like I said, I’m seeing 2 threads that the voting in both goes the other way.

As far as the discussion goes , you’ve got someone that insists that they’re right dominanting the discussion without even a real argument why they’re right, much less any real evidence that it looks like people just gave up on dealing with, especially on the wet vs dry argument. Even if that wasn’t the case there, he’s talking about doing with a completely different type of dry shot (spraying into the maf and letting the pcm compensate vs what you would do on a 3rd gen, use the N2O to boost fuel pressure to increase delivery) on an LS1 which has a much more sensitive MAF and more leeway WRT to fuel delivery. Do the same on your Mass Air TPI car and it would be doubtful if it would react fast enough to work, do it on a SD 3rd gen and you won’t add _any_ fuel and blow up the engine right away.

As far as spraying below 3000rpm, if you’re doing it off the line, in a straight out drag race, of course it’s safe because the car won’t spend any time below 3000rpm. Start from a part throttle roll where you’ll actually see some spray for a time period below 3000rpm, especially with a manual tranny and you’re guaranteed to carry your engine home in a bucket.

 

I skipped over most of the childish bickering, but I'd just like to say for whomever is scared of dry shots, I run a 150 dry shot with two nozzles on a plate behind my TB. My solenoid is triggered by my DFI and it's set up to properly retard, and enrich with the settings in the DFI.

Nothing wrong with 100-150 dry shots if you take care to tune carefully and properly. I would go wet if I went above 150 shot though.

 

Sp 63, you need to do a LOT more reading and a LOT more looking at what kits are available and what the limtations of each of those kits or parts is.

There is absolutly no truth to what you say about a certain nozzle, or rather that a dry nozzle will out flow a wet nozzle. There is so much more to how much a nozzle will flow than whether it's designed as a dry nozzle or a wet nozzle. I've seen small and large nozzles in the wet varoiety, I've seen the same in teh dry design.

I guarantee there is no one using a 500 HP DRY shot. Anyone serious about running that much nrtrous, will step up to a wet system, long before hitting that HP level.