I know where it's being held, just didn't know they don't enforce things as much as e-town does. Hmm, should be interesting then....

 

no they do but me and the car are legal,im pretty much just banned from driving at e-town,long story

 

What do you have alzheimer's? I know the story already lol.....

 

theres more to it lmao, i had words with one of the track officials one night.wasnt a smart move on my part
maybe next year ill be able to drive there again lmao

 

Recently? After the last time the two of us were there together....?

 

yeah me and her went back again

 

^ Did you bring your own pepper.....?

 

lmao theres a brand new modine radiator in the car now

 

^

 

Anyways, back to the project....

Dave, I'm not going under the engine (crossover). If I go with these headers, can you strenghten the passenger side header, and build a proper crossover and down pipe....?

 

yeah those would be easy as hell to reinforce,cross over is no problem either.

 

^ Then that's what I'll wind up doing then, I'll buy them tomorrow. Let me know when is a good time to drop them off, and how much you need for the crossover parts (tubing, flanges, etc), and, of course, the downpipe....

 

ull have to come by and bolt ur acessorys on my mockup motor the way u have them in the car so i can make sure it clears everything.u can drop them off whenever u know im either at the shop or home u wont need any flanges ill make everythign bolt together using the t3 flanges that are on the ends of the headers,with the correct flange on the end of the crossover/merge for the t76? turbo u got
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what size downpipe is on the turbo? i already have 4 inch 321 stainless *90 & *45 elbows

 

^ You know me though, I'm stickler for everything being neat and tidy lol. Need to determine how I'm going to run the oil lines for the turbo, as well as the O2 sensor wire, so maybe install the bung on the bottom side of the downpipe, could prolly squeeze a 4" through, as I'll be installing a mini-starter as well. Need to get my @ss in gear and determine the ECU for crying out loud already. I have a T76 sitting here, but not sure yet....

 

u dont want the 02 bung on the bottom of the downpipe,moisture can collect ont he bottom of the pipe and ruin the sensor, u want it between 9@3 o'clock positions

 

.... no no, not on the bottom just after the turbo where the pipe is still running parralel with the engine, I'm talking about when it dips downward back by the A/C delete box, when it's angled down, so I can run my wire behind the engine.

 

ahhhh i get ya now, im telling ya dude a ms 2 with a relay box is the way to go. very simple and clean install

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=164
and
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...products_id=47
and
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=102
and finally
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...products_id=32

makes for a very clean stock apearing instal

or u can go my route
and get the ms2 unit and just this
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...products_id=43

 

.... over here, little lower though, and possibly on the engine's side;

 

sorry i linked u to the newest ms1 which even that will now control the stock aic motor

but here is the ms2
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...products_id=65
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yeah i can put one there
thats an afully nice looking setup wonder who built that one ??? lmao
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this will be my next mod to my megasquirt, it will replace the quage cluster in the dash, and also eliminates the laptop needed to tune
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...roducts_id=167

 

^ Picture just reminded me that I should really get a catch can as well....

 

i got a catch can, ive got tons of aluminum and can make it any size or shape

 

Umm, tell me more?

 

click this link and read, its a touch screen dash for the ms unit,theres also videos on the page if u scroll down.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/l...irt-p-167.html

 

^ That looks very interesting, however, I'd just love to see what state inspection has to say about that. Although, could simply just pass the car with the stock cluster, then switch it out later on....

 

i do belive the ms unit will do a speedo as well as long as u have a vss box hooked up

besides u really gonna take ur modified turbo thirdgen to "state inspection" lmao

 

.... good point lol!

 

theres always this, much cheaper but dosent allow as much tunning etc but still anic elil feature
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-kit-p-95.html

 

^ To be honest, I'm going to need something FAST (and I don't mean the FAST ECM's lol), as I have to get the car done by the time we meet up with those GTO's, a good few weeks before-hand. I might just go MegaSquirt after all then....

 

call up diy autotune place an order for an ms1 v smd 3.57 modified for fuel and ignition control using a hei 7/8pin hei module and the 12 foot wiring harness, also grab an ait and cts sensor/pigtails

 

^ I'll do that. On a side note, where can I get a stock looking fiberglass hood to be used with 91/92 blisters? Do they make them? Haven't had the time to search around. I'd like to keep the sleeper image, as opposed to a big ole cowl....

 

i know they make a rs)i.e flathood) out of fiberglass the onyl one ive seen that uses the blisters would be the turbo hood which i think is fugly

 

^ Still undecided then. I was thinking about the Jongbloed hood, but it's a little too gawdy for my taste. I might just settle on the freaking cowl then <sigh>....

 

id worry about the hood after the car is running lmao

 

^ smart@ss.....

Car does run, it's just still carbed though....

 

lol i meant running on the turbo :P

 

Junkcltr, I honestly don't have the time to convert the intake myself if I were to get one. Came across a thread where a member has quite a few of them already converted. Price is set at $400.00, how much did it cost you to convert, and how time consuming was the conversion....?



https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ntake-4-a.html

 

Changed my mind, need you to put it behind the alternator, facing the engine (3:00 position) (see pic below). I can run the wiring with the rest of the harness this way, I'll just need to solder in some extra wire for the AFR gauge. That, plus I don't need to worry about the Wideband 02 getting hot enough. Also, remember that my alternator will be much closer to the radiator, so the location where the red arrow is pointing in the pic will be behind the alternator on a V8, as opposed to yours which obviously embellishes right next to the alternator in the pic....

 

It did come out very nice, I just hope you dedicate enough time to the welds on my set, the way you did w/yours, especially since I'm $$$$$$ you lol....

I just popped the hood, and I'm getting ready to pull the A/C harness through the firewall (leaving the heater connectors though of course). Going to use that grommet for the MegaSQUIRT's (ahhhh lol) harness....

 

did u call an order the ms yet? u better get urself some massive injectors as well 65#'s

 

Not yet, but remember that I need the Megasquirt to control everything, as the stock ECM has been eliminated, plus, the car never came with an intank fuel pump. The Megasquirt must power the fuel pump and trans lock up as well as everything else, this is why I didn't order it yet, need to ensure this first. Also, how low do you think you ca an squeeze the downpipe on a V8? Think you can also get it under the strut tower, as I'd like to get my hands on an STB as well....

 

u have my stb still dont ya it should fit even with the v8 fi setup.megaswuirt will controlthe fuel pump, it will not to tc lockup, a simple toggle switch willcontrol lockup though, i have the wiring diagram for it at the shop. 12 volts apllied to one of the pins locks the converter.

the downpipe can also be made out ofoval tubing from spintech ive got somelaying around in 3 and 4 inch

 

^ Still have the STB, but don't forget, it might not fit with the hood I have in mind LOL, but we can still use it as a mock up though....

This AC wiring is a PITFA. Trying to make it perfect where I can retain the 4th speed for the blower motor, while hiding all of the wire in one harness. Thinking about mounting the relay in the open area by the fender. The two little bracket supports have been pulled,and the coolant resevoir has been relocated. All that's left is the fuel lines, and they're going soon. I'll have pics up soon, after I finish the freaking wiring....

 

ummw hich side of the car is ur battery on? if its on the passenger side u got move it, either to the trunk or driver side
----------
u can use some 0 gauge cable from any car audio store if u move it to the trunk, that ***** about 4$'s a foot last time i got some, i may have some but iirc its only 4 gauge cable

 

It took me a long time to do it. Probably like 8 hours. I made a template to locate the dizzy hole and drilled it. Then I MADE the dizzy pad out of MIG weld. That is I would weld a little and let it cool. Once I had it built up enough, then I "machined" it with my cut-off tool and disk grinder. Weld and square it, measure, weld and square it, etc.

The intake bolt holes were easy.....just use a FelPro gasket for alignment. The coolant line holes weren't bad. You need a 1/2" NPT (or 3/4" I forget) tap.

Overall, if you are going to use the Megasquirt MS1 then you don't need the dizzy hole. You could just pick up a crank wheel (36-1 teeth) at DIYAUTOTUNE and go EDIS. You have unlimited V8 RPMs with that setup.

My LT1 intake was $125 shipped complete with everything. It only required my time and about $20 worth of supplies (wire, argon, bolts). I picked up another LT1 intake for $100 shipped and bought the EGR block-offs and the dizzy bung from LT1intake.com years ago for about $20. I will install the bung this time and it will probably only take about 2-4 hours.

One other thing. I have a problem with the way an LT1 intake covers the EGR exh. ports with stock heads (993 heads specifically). I had to weld angle alum. on the LT1 intake underneath it where the stock 993 head exh. ports are. Without the angle alum., the exh. would leak into the lifter valley. I had a spare head lying around when I did the LT1 conversion. I bolted up the intake to the head up-side-down and saw the 1/4" gap/hole where the exh. would leak into the intake. I posted this info here in the intake forum years ago. Most people blew it off.......and would never knew they are pushing a small amount of exh. into the lifter valley and engine. They will probably notice there oil is a little darker than normal.

If you don't have the time, then I would not do the LT1 intake. Keep in mind with the MS1 it would be faster and better if you did the 36-1 wheel and EDIS.

 

^ It's on the drivers side, but it's going on the passenger's side soon. I need to buy a positive cable off of a 3rd gen that had the battery on the drivers side. Either that, or I'll simply make my own like you just mentioned....

 

I can't believe it.........megasquirt finally went commercial with SMT fully assembled units. In terms of the easiness of use and quickness of tuning.......$341 isn't a bad price. I hope B & G stick to their roots and keep the DIY through-hole solder kits around forever.

Those 36-1 crank wheels at diyautotune seem reasonable. I have been wanting to do an EDIS setup with a GM 427 or 730 ECM. Those wheels look like they would work.

 

Whoa whoa, this changes everything. I didn't know about this. I can actually retain the EGR (albeit plugged), for future reference in case I need to run one? Then this is a no brainer then, I'm going LT1 no matter what, and I'll eliminate the dizzy altogether.....!!!

 

The MS1 will do the fuel pump (prime shot). The stock ECM gives the pump a prime shot like the the MS1 will. Once the engine starts then the oil press. switch on the top rear of the engine by the dizzy closes and keeps the pump running.
The TCC can be controlled by a vacuum switch or the MS1.

In terms of fuel with a V8 and a T76 compressor maxed out.......you are looking at 800 BHP. Lucky for you the MS1 will do Peak & Hold injectors. You are also into the huge money fuel pumps or dual Walbro 255 LPH units.

Depending on what kind of fuel you intend to run and how must boost you want, you will be needing anywhere between 42 lb/hr to 83 lb/hr injectors. What type of fuel and how much BHP do you want?

 

Go here:
http://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm

and search for this:
If you do need to adapt a different ignition system to your vehicle

the MS website has a link to a website that sells the Ford V8 EDIS:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...anual.htm#edis

I think the V8 EDIS used was about $100. I am not sure if that included the 4 coil packs with it. Oh yeah, you will never need to replace a worn-out dizzy cap again. Price out the entire EDIS and LT1 intake before you make the decision. Maybe the HSR and dizzy route is cheaper. I never did the comparison.

 

Want to avoid running a vacuum switch for the lock up, that was actually already on the car when i got it, but I pulled it. If the MS1 can control the TCC, then that's exactly what I would need then. I thought about what Dave was saying regarding the toggle, but really don't want to go that route though. Will MS1 also control the cooling fan as well....?

I already have a Walbro 255 from a previous project that I sold off, as well as a stock TPI intank pump. A buddy of mine is selling his Aeromotive A11101 (figures too, as I just sold the same exact one a few months ago lol), for a decent price. If this is the case, I'll go Aeromotive, as I really don't want to fool around with dual pumps....

Not so much in terms of horsepower, I'm looking to run a streetable 10 second car on moderate boost levels, low 9 second car all-out. Pump gas is a must for the street, supplemented with alky for the track....