u do not want to lose the dizzy, if u run the edis setup u then lose some features liek launchcontrol/antil lag and spark drop rpms limits,

edis cannot drop spark u do not want to use fuel cut on a boosted engine

the ms1 will do a fan as well but ur best bet is keyon fan on due tothe fact u will have a intercooler out front of the radiator,the fan helps pulla ir threw it
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btw u want the battery on the drivers side the turbo will have to sit out close to the battery tray on the passenger side

 

Okay, update....;

I'm really not in the mood anymore to solder additional wire onto the factory harness, so what I've decided to do is simply get my hands on the correct pigtail harness for the non-AC heater box. I don't really care about a 4th fan speed to tell you the truth, and three is more than enough to keep the inside of the car warm....

All that's left is the fuel lines, the coolant resevoir is relocated, and brackets were removed. Disregard the wiring in the back, as this pic was taken before I pulled it through the firewall and inside of the car....;

Also, and Dave just loves when I get creative LMAO. look at the pics underneath the first one posted. First you'll find a picture of the stock upper alternator bracket, then one without the bracket, then one with a CUSTOM bracket. Can anytone tell me what I used for it....?

Unbelievably, it's a perfect fit (just have to bend the tabs and widen the holes on each side for a 1/2" bolt). Don't worry, it'll get chromed. Yup, it's all about da fabrication yo LOL!

 

OK, so you are using your A/C pump bracket support rod for your alternator. I hope you are using the stock alternator bracket on a 5 - 10HP briggs weldernator setup now.

 

LOL.....

That bracket used was the reinforcement bracket found on the side of the strut tower, down to the chassis. Had to toss it to make way for the down pipe, then I started looking at the tapped hole in the front of the manifold, and was like, "hmm" lol. Oddly enough, it fits perfectly. Please tell me that the LT1 intakes have that bolt location, if not, guess I'll be drilling and tapping one....

 

nice plenty of room but why mess with the alt if ur putting a elec water pump on it anyway, ur only gonna have to relocate the alt

 

Decided against it, don't need the headache, TBH....

 

Gonna move the battery over soon, and while that whole side is empty I'm going to hit it with some fresh paint after I sand it down. Doing the rest of the bay when the engine gets pulled.

 

lol wanna paint my car while ur at it, im getting ready to break out the sandblaster fill it with baking soda and blast the paint down to bare metal.

painting the car mystic teal

 

^ Waddya wanna be like the termy guys....?

A few guys were curious with how the new alternator bracket came out, and looked. It came out considerably well, especially for something that literally took me ten minutes to fabricate. Here are two more pics with it on and secure....;

Not bad for a total cost of $0.00, ehh....?

 

termy guys????
umm how much tension is on the belt liek that? and can u adjust it at all?

 

... the belt is in the same exact position as it was from the factory, tension is more than adequate, and I cut the alternator side of the new bracket in a way that allows me to adjust if need be. Yeah, those Mystic Terminator (Cobra) guys!

 

Neither the HSR or the LT1 have that hole tapped. That bracket is growing on me, but if I can't use it in that location, I'll trim it down and attach it to the top of the waterpump....

 

why not just use a stock tpi manifold? cheap and easy to come by,isnt somone here into the 10's with a turboed tpi car?

 

^ Yeah, there's an L98 running 10's with the TPI setup, I just hate looking at that particular setup though. Could always get a set of SLP runners, and port the crap out of the plenum and base though lol (they are pretty cheap, to boot)....

 

Vapor Canister was just pulled, and the battery is ready to be relocated. Not actually moving it yet though until I get the correct length cable. Wait til you guys see how and where I relocated my coolant resevoir....

 

Following along for this project.
as for TPI theres a guy ove ron theturboforums as you know running LOW 9's @ 152mph with a TPI.

Go VicJR converted for EFI and a 90* elbow and a LS1 TB..

BTW, PM on your way.

 

Heh, as I’ve said before, I’ve actually gone to the trouble to convert a vic jr just because I don’t want to mess with all the gaskets/bolts every time I have to mess with the fuel system. Otherwise on a boosted setup the TPI isn’t really a restriction.

So has either of you actually pulled the trigger on the MS? I’ve about 99% of the way there myself, I’ve gotten tired of bitching about the GM stuff and related issues and spent the beginning of this week researching it, but I’ve decided that to do it right I’m going to have to go with an MS2/PCB3 combo, after debating it on a few different boards and finally emailing back and forth with the DIYautotune guys today.

 

lol ive been running the ms1 for over a year now,been trying to get rob to get one when he had his last project car,bu the keeps letting the prom guys talk him into the **** like the ebl and stuff

 

Chris (TPI383) is hooking me up big time, so I'll have what I need sometime next week Dave for you to start making the crossover, etc. I will be ordering the Megasquirt, but not just yet, gotta take care of a few things first, but I am ordering it. I had to throw on the Edelbrocks, not just for the baseline tomorrow night, but to be able to drive to the shop lol....

... meh, not pretty, but it'll get the job done for now.

 

Technology wise the MS1 is much better than the EBL. Price wise the MS1 is also a better deal. EBL requires an ALDL cable and stuff. The MS1 has better tunability and data rates.
The ONLY way a GM ECM is better than the MS1 or MSII is if you do all of your own coding/patches on the GM ECM and you already have PROM burning equip. and ALDL cable. Also, if you need all of the stock emission controls. Also, if you have a bunch of vehicles all running the same ECM (like me using the 730 and 427 ECMs). It would be too expensive to buy six MSIs.

If I was in his position I would go with the MSI and forget about the GM stuff including the EBL.........a re-hashed 1988 computer that was a bad design to begin with.

 

ms1 3.57 since it will control the stock iac, and can runt he msnextra coding, im thinking about upgrading mine to the ms12 cpu but the extra code for ms 2 still dosent have all the features of the ms1 extra code.

the o nly reason i saw to goto a ms 2 earlier was cause of the iac issue but the new ms1 v3.57 fixes that issue

 

I looked into the MS1 and the EDIS not doing rev limiting using spark. I wanted to look into it deeper to see if it is the MSextra code that will not allow it or it is the EDIS hardware itself. That sucks if the EDIS itself can't do rev limiting using spark.

The MS1 using the PCB 3.0 looks pretty tempting. I can't seem to find the MSextra source (assembly) code any where. Any one know where it can be downloaded? I would like to take a look at it in more detail.

 

http://www.megamanual.com/files/code/
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mcode.htm
they changed the front page on megaquirt.info it used to all be right htere

and yes the spark based rpm limits and suck cannot be used due to limitations of the edis system itself, there are other dis systems u can adapt and use though and have spark based limits etc

 

That is for the MS2 and MS1. MS2 is the "C" language and MS1 is assembly language. I have read through both the MS2 and MS1 to see what they have for "fail-safe" code.

The MSExtra code comes from the UK website. They don't seem to have the source (assembly) code hanging around anywhere.

That EDIS problem is not good. The EDIS power could be fed to it using a relay. The MS1/II could cut the power to the EDIS and therefore it couldn't charge & fire the coils. I though about doing this as a poor man's GM ECM spark limiter. Use one of the GM ECM outputs to cut power to the ign. coil above a certain RPM. I have been looking through the GM code to to it right and not fire the dizzy module........but it is taking a while to figure out the random spark thing.

 

ive seen links for the msnexta source code i will poke around and look for it again, i might even have it on my laptop

 

How many times have you had to mess with the injectors? I have two engines with TPI units and neither require fuel injector maintenence. I can see wanting the victor jr for more power. A victor jr will make more peak HP than the TPI and I think deep down that is why you have the victor jr on there.

C'mon, the GM ECM isn't that bad. The problem is the documentation. Most of the ECMs have plenty of spare outputs and inputs. They have excellent diagnostic code built in (the MS1/2 doesn't). It has fail safe hardware. They have all kinds of tables to adjust. The problem most people have is that there are too many tables........the code is too complex. After you beat your head up against it for a few years, it isn't so bad. I actually like the GM code better than the MS1/2 code at this point. I had the 730 ECM reading a 2-bar MAP, a 3-bar exh. backpressure MAP, 3 IATs, oil temp., controlling water/alky pump.......all while doing its stock functions. These ECMs aren't that bad. The 730 is a great ECM.

I have a MS2 with PCB3 unit sitting in a box since year 2005. It was the backup plan if I couldn't get the first turbo project (Camaro) running right with the 730 ECM and $58 code. I almost went to the MS2 setup. I messed with the $8D AUJP code instead because I had other rigs I wanted to put turbos on. I am glad I did the 730/AUJP route now. At the time it seemed like a lot of work. MS2 is still sitting un-built in a box.........it may go on a bike someday if I can't get the GM 427 ECM to read a 2-cyl, 180* crank angle engine DRP.

 

I do this stuff as much to experiment and test theories as to go fast/have fun, and I want to tinker with injector location and using fuel to cool the intake charge with multiple banks of injectors. Going with a vic jr, adding injector bungs to the runners, the throttle body elbow and possibly even in front of the throttle body lets me reasonably quickly change configurations which would be totally impossible with the TPI intake. For assorted reasons I also want to make sure that fuel supply is not an issue and although the stock rails can be dealt with, the plumbing between them, the regulator and various connections would all have to be redone. Finally, for right now I’m going to slap all this on a stock LB9, and a stock TPI will flow more than enough on a 305 to rev to whatever rpm would be reasonable for that short block, so the increased flow/rpm range that the vic jr would mostly be wasted on that engine anyway (not on the one that I originally intended to use, but that will still happen when I blow up the 305).

As far as the GM ECM comments… I would agree with you, one of my major issues is documentation and possibly my related lack of understanding of how to figure out what is doing what in the code/reconfiguring the inputs and outputs to do what I want them to. If I had someone like you local willing to put in some time showing me how to deal with/do some of that I doubt that I’d be looking at the MS this soon, BUT, that is not the case, I don’t really know where to start and definitely don’t want the ecm to be my limitation with this project. That is not the case with my truck, which I’m probably going to leave running on a 747 and I’m going to keep burning chips for. Tuning of existing/documented tables is simple enough, I know what I want or need the engine to do.

When it comes down to it, I understand that to do some of what I want to do here I’m going to have to put time in to learn and deal with the engine management aspect, but if that wasn’t the reality of the situation I would be much happier for engine management to just work.

 

Hey why you dont you do something like this alternator bracket that I did. It works, is not that expensive and is adjustable.

 

The MS II can control TCC lock up

 

That's a really nice piece. Where did you get that.....?

 

Those are really two rod ends with a threaded shaft in between, about $25-$0 bucks for the complete thing. Once side of the rod end is bolted to an eyelet on the water pump, the other to the alt. I run the shortest belt (+ bit) possible and the adjust from there. Good thing is that every time I remove the belt is just a nut away.

 

Small Update....;

Been back and forth to the track all this weekend, trying to solidify October 25th as the day the GTO's get they're @sses handed to them. So far, that day is looking like the day that it's going to happen, just need to speak to one more guy to make it a done deal....

Only got a chance to install the carbon fiber autometer gauges this weekend, and they should be hooked up entirely in the next hour or so. Running a NB O2 sensor just for now, as the WB will get here when the Megasquirt does. Disregard the B&M shifter, as that's getting pulled very soon (I just can't get used to the feel of it lol)....

 

lol ill trade ya ur b&m for my stock firebird shifter :P

bbs what ya got to fit a 4thgen camaro with an lt1 with a t4 flange for the turbo?

 

SOLD......

 

all this turbo talk makes me want one. a procharger would be nice too, just a shame i would have to tear the motor apart, too much comp....me wants

 

u know me i can never keep anything on topic lol,im just feeling lazy i dont feel liek building myself another set of turbo headers.besdies ifi did it would take me a yaer to finish them at the rate im going

 

.... how much static compression are you running?

 

shiiit im running prolly 9.5:1 or a bit more... grow a pair and boost it, blow it, rebuild it!

 

thats what meth is for **** if its a 10-1 motor u could get 6-7 psi without the meth

 

Woops, spoke to soon lol, just got my hands on an '89 Iroc shifter w/cable. You can still have the B&M shifter bro, just build me a damn Y-Pipe until the turbo headers are bought and shipped so I can drive the damn car already. It sounds like freaking Armageddon when I start it up right now, and I'm sure the neighbors just love that...

 

LOL seems like my projects never get running untill 11pm or later

 

lolu gota get the car to the shop for that

 

Yeah sure, I got pulled over w/the LS1 for a tiny, and I mean tiny little nick in the windshield. Umm, what do you think they're going to do when I stroll through town with Slayer BLASTING through the tailpipes....

 

u got a shop saw? and some tubing, i can come over we can mockup the y pipe and use marks/ductape to hold it together then wrun it over to the shop tack it up,refit it to the car make sure it fits and takeit back to the shop and finish welding it

u wouldnt happen to have triplle a would ya ? they will tow it to the shop
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u mean lack of tailpipes or anythign resembling an ex system :P lol

ahh be brave i drove around the r6 with the open turbo downpipe for a year

 

Meh, guess I can always have it towed there....

 

lol yeah by the time we ran back and forth 3 times ud prolly burn up just as much gas as if u paid to have it towed to the shop, tow is prolly 80-100 bucks,plus we know it will fit the first time

 

Can you adapt anything decent onto the crummy two bolt flanges on the Edelbrocks? Just for now, until the turbo headers are installed? Need to see what they look like before-hand....?

 

ball and socket flanges? can u get me a picture, worst case is u have to stop at an ex shop and pickup the right flanges

 

^ Just one side has the ball type flange (the drivers side), the other side is flat....

 

more then likley ul have to buy 2 flanges unless i can put 3 bolt flanges on the end of them