Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Mock up was done and finished the wastegate install. Now finshed heat insulating engine bay/wiring and titanium wrapped the downpipes, and half the header from collector to turbine housing.

Looks good! Pic doesnt quite show it but it has a cool greenish silver tint to the wrap. Its a cool contrast. Also alot nicer to work with over that fiberglass wrapping stuff...no real fibers and no itchy feeling.











SInce the hotside was basically together I started mounting the oil pump and running the drain lines to it, removing old drain line from pan and blocking the one side off with a cap since i only need a single return line to the pan. The way my turbos sit the drains sit below battery box level and theres no way to run to the pan with good downward angle so I'm using Turbowerx Exa-pump for scavenging. Drains are -8 an line into a T fitting and into the pump and -8 an out to the pan. Need a few fittings to finish this and then make the supply oil lines.



16 ga plate steel for base support. Bolted to the front crash bar and pump sits right behind the turn signal lense in the front bumper, right below driver side battery box/charcoal canister


I did the passenger side cold side piping. To my delight, I just had to take my old pipes and cut out a small straight section and the 2 ends couple together to fit perfect.

Driver side is almost the same, but I gotta filll in a small 8" section to the turbo outlet to make it all work. Easy as pie.

Wont be too long now. Main thing now is replacing water pump motor which wont ship til the 14th! Back order but thats ok, I gotta finish up few other things first

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

looks great that hotside is gonna be capable of HUGE power

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That's the plan lol

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Oil lines are done and racked up a fairly high price tag...i hate AN line and fittings -8 AN stuff for the drains and return to oil pan, and -4 AN stuff for the feeds to turbo



I have them installed on the car. Last thing I got to do is wire the pump but the relay kit I ordered from summit has no relay! So now i'm abit delayed.

Need some wastegate gaskets since I lost 1 of them, so I just ordered 4 copper SCE ones to replace them all. With that done, I can snug the hotside up and its ready to hook up the dual exhaust which I want to hang up higher to gain some clearance. Also gotta finish cold side, one side is done just needs clamped in. Other side I need to cut a piece of pipe and it will hook up fine.

Intake feed pipe i welded a bung in for a true open element plastic type IAT/MAT sensor like the syclone turbo trucks and various other cars used so I can hook up to my code $59 system and actually get a real air temp reading....

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Ran into some hiccups. For some reason after welding in the wastegate tubes or during mock up the alignment shifted so when i go to bolt wastegates in, they dont line up to the flanges. Error on my part so i cut and rewelded to gain alignment.

Also noted that csr electric water pumps are now on backorder. I was looking to get just a replacement motor for mine but its been on backorder for 3 weeks now and last notice said its a month out atleast. I cant wait that long so i was gonna buy a brand new pump just to get a motor but now they arent available! So i could have gone meziere but after reading alot on electric pumps and flow capacities in high hp apps, i should be running 55 gpm pump. They are 450$ so no thanks.

So after spending a day looking thru march performance catalog i believe i can somewhat easily adapt my electric waterpump accessories system and convert back to a conventional pump. I ordered a stewart stage 2 pump and march pulley. I should beable to reuse my brackets for power steering and alternator because it looks like they are same overall part numbers for other kits with long waterpumps so i just need to make some small spacers for the bolting and get the right length bolts for this to work.

Sucks i lose ability to circulate water while sitting in the lanes at the track cooling down but i think the mechanical is better and offers much more reliability. I already had a electric pump fail and leave me stranded. Almost costing me a motor. I dont want to chance that again

Other than that cold side is done, hotside just needs torqued down again and oil pump needs wired in. Hang exhaust and it should be good to run

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

As expected, I just made some small spacers and got longer bolts and my old brackets worked fine with conventional Stewart Stage 2 pump. Same type pump kept my 383 cool in hot summers with stock rad so i hope it will do the same on this motor.

I painted pump red to match block and have belts in place ready to go.

I realigned my driver side downpipe as redoing the wastegates moved things around but thats all squared away


Now I think I have to hook up the oil pump and flush rad system, and hook up the exhaust to the downpipes and I'll be ready to drive. This is taking much longer than expected but oh well...

Good news is with the electric water pump gone, I can use the relay wiring to oil pump Less wiring for me is a plus

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Been awhile since I updated it but car runs... not driving yet but it starts and idles and most of the way free rev tuned, now time to drive.

Finished mounting hood and pins tonight. Heres pics but the pins are not in this one





This was a quick vid of the exhaust i posted earlier... not complete I ended up adding 2 dynomax bullets to it to quiet it down a tad more but sounds similar

Ed1LE

iTrader: (39)

Sounds & looks good!

Andrew91GT

Car looks really good!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

i liked it better with the turbos sticking out the hood, but this new build looks good as well, and a bit more stealthy

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah alot of ppl say that then alot are saying its so clean now they like it better. It was always 50/50 opinion on if they like it or not.

I got some FIC 115 lb at 3 bar injectors! Should feed my 1000hp goals.

project89

iTrader: (1)

if u ever need an lines again try pushloc stuff

i bought all my fragola fittings and parker hose for a fraction of what stianless braided an lines would have cost

i got all my stuff off ebay and it was all new brand name stuff , not to mention the pushloc stuff is so much nicer to work with, spray a lil oil on the end of the fitting and push the hose on and ur done. no lil splinters or stabbing urself with the hose

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Is that the same as twist-lock by russel? I've seen the pushlok stuff and its all blue...i guess you can get it in black but the premade lengths looked all blue and I'm not putting that in my car. I dont even want stainless braided line but didnt want to pay that much extra to get a black covered hose.

I havent had problems using AN lines tho...the hardest ones i had to deal with are the -4 lines for oil feeds but only 1 end was extremely difficult to get in. -6 to -10 no issues for me... tape cut and install.

The Goodridge teflon line stuff and fittings are really nice but also very expensive. My fuel system is made up of those and they are easy to work with but very pricey...but also suppose to last longer than the typical braided steel rubbers

ONLY thing left for me to do eventually with AN hose but not at this moment in time is the oil cooler. I just need to figure out where/how to mount it. May try the pushlok stuff for that if it can handle it... -10 aint cheap and I need 12 ft or so I think

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

I personally don't trust the pushlock for anything other than water lines....

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Stainless? If so, that stuff pulls like a PITA. More than once have I had things jump out of alignment requiring a cut and reweld

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Those pipes and flanges arent stainless but I was welding to a 409 stainless downpipe I believe... Either way its not the first time it moved on me and I thought I tacked it strong enough around the edges to keep it in place...took my time with it and didnt put to much heat into it. Oh well stuff happens

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Looks badass for sure...

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i haaaaaaaaaate the aeromotive/russell pushloc stuff. haaaaaate it. (the black hydraulic type hose) get ready to have some red caloused hands if you decide to plumb your car with that stuff. just did a whole car with -8 and -10. i'll take my stainless braided hose anyday over that mess.

car looks great. im anxious to see how it runs.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thanks, cant wait to see what it runs myself. From a drag ET perspective, it wont be as impressive I dont think since its not optimized for 1/4 mile. No trans brake so it will likely leave soft again and not sure what tires I'm running, either a 18/19" radial or may keep a 15" ET street or go 15" 275-295 ET Radials... no idea yet. But it should MPH real nice

project89

iTrader: (1)

they make it in all different colors
red blue black grey yellow
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...506.m270.l1313

if u buy any ask the seller of the brand of the hose first i had a few sellers i ask have noname hose that i wouldnt trust.

i used blue parker hose for mine but my engine bay is also blue and silver, as the car is being painted blue and silver

all my fittings are fragola and the quality was real nice and they were cheap

all this ran me around 50 bucks , the seller gave me a discount on all of it


i used -10 drains and -4 feeds on my car

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

the stuff i was using was russell fittings with black hose made by aeroquip. its straight up hydraulic hose... we use the same stuff at work, but crimp steel ends on. (which require no pushing/wrestling to get them on) im pretty sure i took 5 years off of my hands putting that crap together.

maybe your option is easier to use? hope so anyways... lol

project89

iTrader: (1)

i had to fight the first hose i put together i wa susing wd-40 to lube up the fittings i wwa sputting all my wieght on the hose/fitting and it only got on about 1/2 way and once it stoped i couldnt pull the hose back off so i had to slice it and cut it. so i could try again.

after a recomendation of somone to use thicker oil i used lucas engine assembly lube and they went right together. i can clamp the fitting in a vise and put all 220 pounds of my wieght pulling the hose and it wont come apart

deff sounds like u used a diff type of hose, but after using the pushloc stuff i used ill never go back to braided lines,except for fuel lines, im sure the pushloc stuff is fine for it but i like the abrasion resitance of the braided stuff for that

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Aeroquip makes and assembly lube which I puchased with my components. I have not started putting things together yet so I don't know how well it works.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Like I said, it takes very little effort to put the braided lines together as long as they are over -4 size for the most part and you have clean cuts on the outside so the fitting fits over the braiding. If it starts to fray you are screwed. I got so many fittings/AN lines on this car now, i've spent a fortune but never had an issue in assembly. Tranny lines, oil cooler lines, oil drain and feeds, fuel systems, nitrous lines, etc. I havent tried the various styles out there but I do like the Goodridge teflon stuff that Lonnies performance sells in their fuel line kits. You cut the line and its SUPPOSE to fray back. A little metal ferule goes over the inner line and the fitting compresses the braiding steel wires back down into the main fitting. Really easy design but they are pricey

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Couple of finished shots. Nothing special. Been working on the tune. finally took it for the first drive and it feels good. Was very rich in spots due to the rough base map I put in with the 115 lb injectors. I tweaked it a good bit and its closer now but I havent driven it again. Just doing brake stalls in the driveway to get the load up where normal driving/cruise ranges are and its getting closer to the air fuels I want.

So much for the lack of low end with such huge heads and big cam. Feels fine, same if not better than it did last year even tho it was running very rich! Once i lean it out I can get into the heavier throttle to see how it really feels.






AMS boost controller. 2 stage with ramp feature on stage 2. I only wired stage 2 in so i'll be on gate pressure until I enable stage 2.


Put stage 2 high boost on the old nitrous switch Should be interesting

freaky

looking good ...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Ok got a baseline tune in up to 9 psi so far and it feels extremely strong but its hard to tell. It doesnt blaze the tires off like it used to, the boost comes on alot more smoothly and abit slower with the .96 a/r housings but after 4000-4200 its in boost and reallly picking up steam. I love it. I think its a better setup, more top end oriented and less low mid range tire shredding torque so its actually more controllable on the street.

Tune is good enough to take to the track and fine tune from there. Hope to go thursday.
But I got one more thing done today that needed done before the track and thats these tires

305/30/19 drag radials...mickey et street 2's. Interesting to see how a 19" radial works. With my boost ramping in, I should hook no problem walking out the hole off footbrake like i used to

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I hope u get better results than mine. I have 295/60r15 mt streets on mine and my 521 bbf has so much low end that I can't leave the line or go full throttle for 60' otherwise I blow the tires loose. Forget about foot breaking too. I have a 3000 stall nos converter but haven used the bottle yet. Best 60' is like 1.8s but mine isn't set up for drag racing/weight transfer. I think mine liked around 21 psi.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I wont have your off Converter performance. My car is a turd til boost lol its been hooking on street tires from low rolls so i think i should be ok.
My friends z06 at 540 whp went 1.4's 60's with 18" mickeys with 6 spd

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

"Tune is good enough to take to the track and fine tune from there. Hope to go thursday."

Hehehehe. Can't wait for the results. Sounds like you now have a different car with all the changes.

Speedfreak391

iTrader: (1)

How did you fit up your intercooler on the front side of the bumper. I am working on doing this right now. I am thinking about either mounting it into the back of the bumper, in front of the radiator. Or do I put it in the front side of the bumper, and push it right up to the bumper cover?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I cut the bumber crash bar out between the frame rails and welded brackets in. Intercooler is perfect size to fit between it.

Yes its a completely different feel under wot. Even part throttle it feels abit different. It doesnt have the lightning boost response that blew tires off like before which is good for traction but makes me nervous in that it seems like it may not be making power. You would expect it to lay tire. I am sure it is making power but only one way to find out lol. Wot pull is definately strong but i cant say how strong. Part throttle feels great, seems stronger

freaky

waiting on track times ....

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I hope its not to busy so i can get some runs in. I need to tune top rpms in top gear before i can really start goin after some et and mph. I figure 2 passes to sort things out and 2 to lean fuel curve out and then i need to find optimal shift pt which could be anywhere. That will take time. So first outing may not look that impressive. We shall see. Plus car is heavier on my street rims compared to race trim by a good 100 lbs so expect some slower times

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well actually may not go. Tested car last night and realize with the taller tires and such my car cant get off the line. I cant even do a burnout lol. It started to spin but hooked because they are sticky tires. It needs more rpm but cant get it with 2.73 and the converter is only acting like 3500. Needs more of both. It tries to build boost and blast thru it but sits at 3500 or so and 3-4 psi and cant climb so it breaks up on me. Like cuts out. Its rich at 11.5 to 1 when it does this and more fuel seemed to help some but i may try leaning and throwing more timing at it.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

wow man. lot done since we last talked when you were still here. hope you get it figured out. i wanna see what it does.

blackbmagic

Didnt see in any earlier post if you did any mini tubbing or hammering. Do those 305 wide tires fit the stock wheel well? I have 18" vette wheels with a 2" spacer and looking to upgrade to a 295 drag radial from my 275's but they are dangerously close as is.

Lemmi know what you did. I might add I lowered my car 2" in rear and 3" up front.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I beat the helll out of the wheel well to fit it and its still pretty close. Outer edge of tire tucks just inside the fender lip. I got 305/35/19's on it now and its a tall tire but fits

blackbmagic

Nice! thanks.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I must have a fouled plug or burnt plug wire or something. Car runs rough and sounds off. Bit of buckin at lower rpms that never occured before so time to investigate. Oh well nothing new here, always something wrong

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

amen to that.

looking really good, I like the new hood much better

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Found it. Melted a plug wire thru my heat boots. Gotta order new plugs and heat protection stuff.

Maybe some wires too but i have some spares

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Replaced plugs and that wire and it seems to do ok now. But its running abit hot today. Its muggy and warm out but driving car hard in boost and trying to do launches really heats it up for whatever reason.

Some pics

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

I wonder if changing the water pump made any difference?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

None that I can tell actually. Car runs same as always, 190's deg F in most weather...longer trips, hotter temps 200-210. Just trying to do a couple launches on the 2 step today reallly heats it up fast. 210-215 and it takes away to recover from that....

Wonder if the motor is just making alot more power and heat? Normally dont have an issue until you really get on it hard at launch. No big deal. Just gotta keep an eye on it. Also my timing is high at the 2 step area so high timing can also cause abit of overheating but I am trying to get the car to come out of the hole harder and its DOGGED down with 3600 stall now and 2.73 gears on 27.4" tires I need my 3.42 12 bolt to go in asap. My converter used to be 4000-4200 but now powerband is shifted, its only 3500-3600 ish stall speed so its ******* motor down. I'll ride it out this year and look to upgrade over winter maybe. The gears should help

blackbmagic

Looking good man, very jealous!

34blazer

are you underdriving the water pump? nice looking car btw

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Good question. My alternator is low on output when under 1000 rpm so its pulley could be smaller to spin faster. I wonder if march's waterpump pulley is too large as well?

34blazer

yeah those kits will underdrive the waterpump too much. your water pump pulley should be smaller than the crank pulley. ill bet thats why it runs hot, mine did the same thing once i brought it out here to vegas. i put the stocker back on and bumper to bumper temps fell by 10*, on a 100* day

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Whats the ratio between crank pulley and waterpump pulley on stock cars?