I'm a little curious about the prochargers,
I have a 350 with bored and honed cylinders, precision ground iron crankshaft, with 74cc stage one ported heads with 1.94"x.1.50" valves and #100 lbs. springs with a competition 3-angle vavle job (Iron TBI heads).
I have Engine Tech flatop (9.2 to 1) pistons.
a hydraulic roller cam of 222'@.50" and .447" lift.
I also have a dual plane intake manifolds,
I was wondering about how well would one of the prochargers would work on this engine?
I figure if I was going to get one, I would want D-1SC for more performance out of it.
but would I have to change my crankshaft and pistons to forged?
and would I have to do any modifcation to my cylinder heads?
could I keep or should I change my camshaft?
I do know and plan on changing my carb to a 750 cfm carb, and I know I would have to make it a blow thro carb.

I'm currently getting 360 hp and 380 tq out of the engine. (idk what Im getting at the wheels.)

any suggestions?
and any suggestions on where to get a procharger kit for a good price?
I am looking at hawk's third gen parts store, just because I know they have one. but I've delt with them before, and I'm not exactly happy how they price thier parts, kind of a little drastic in my opinion.

Thank you,

Tim

 

Whats the LSA on your cam?? If you want a quick comparison, all the procharger kits for 3rd gens are for 88-92. Not sure why that particular year but thats what they say. The camaro sets use a serpentine belt setup and you'll need dual fans, not a single. Regarding heads, the spring pressure has me a little concerned but if you don't get a response here, just call procharger and talk to a tech.
To buy a system, call procharger for a list of who is a retailer in your area. If you want an immediate place to get a quote call Jack @ Cisco's Performance in Providence, RI.

 

The years listed are for TPI / Serpentine systems... The Biggest pullley for the D1SC is 4" I think, which is about 9 or 10lbs of boost, do not need foreged internals for that, since it's also intercooled... If you want more boost, they will change the pulley and go from 8 rib to 12, but get advice from them as to what boost you will need forged stuff...
Don't forget new bigger injectors and tuning!

Rafael

 

I have to recommend Bob over at http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/
call and ask for him directly if he doesnt answer the phone himself, ls1tech.com recommended me to him when I was shopping around, He pricematches any cheaper price ( I found my best price on racingjunk.com) which he gladly gave me the same price. very knowledgable too!

 

Wow, that helps alot.
I'm not sure about my LSA on my cam. The builder I bought the engine from told me its a stock corvette cam. I do remeber him saying it was a LT4 cam and corvette LT4 crankshaft and pistons. but this was about 7 months ago and I dont really have a record on what he said exactly. I could ask him again about it.

luvofjah, I wasn't sure about what you mean about bigger injectors?

I don't and I haven't had TPI on my engine before, it was a TBI engine when I got the car, but I went to carbed because I wouldnt have to mess with the chips and changing injectors.

I do have a serpentine system set up.

I'll ask them about it and find out about what they recommend me with forged internals.

I do have one electric fan, I'll go get two, but would I need to change my raditor size too? (I'm kinda hoping not).

Thank you you guys for replying

 

No need to change the radiator size. The single fan interferes with the crank blower pulley. That's something Procharger doesn't mention but is a fact. I was QUITE suprised when I dished out 3200+ bux for my kit and found out I had to drop more money on dual fans.

 

Wow....
Why so much on the dual fans?

 

better re read that post.

dual fans are no more then 300 for a good set.

 

I've read through some FAQ's about the pro charger, it sounds like to me I could even run it with what I have, they don't really mention anything about needing forged internal parts but they said they see about 500 hp limited on stock pistons.

they really didnt talk about anything of changing cams, or do something special the the heads. I guess If I keep it to a certain PSI range I should be good. but my friend that goes to Wyotech said something he found out tonight that eventually will take out #1 main bearings, from the belt and pressure on the crank. so just stay natural asperated.

Any ideas what he means?

I dont seem to understand what he was talking about. (about the "stay natural asperated")

 

The nice thing about the Procharger and that style of supercharger is that they put less strain on the crank snout than a roots style does. So they are saying that the pressure put on the crank by the belt will wear out the bearing? That is BS. Needs to find a new school.

The fact is that as you add horsepower you are more likely to break something. If you add enough power you will break something! Just the way it is.

For a blower cam you will want around 114* LSA. Some people say you should have more duration on the exhaust side. You are getting good HP with your current heads and cam so they should be a good strarting point. I would attack the possible weak points in your setup then add HP gradually.

 

Your wyotech friend is speaking about if you were to summon the powers of greyskull and go he-man on tightening the blower belt. That in turn puts pressure / stress on your upper half bearing. BUT, I'd be more worried about snapping the snout of your crankshaft. DO NOT worry about it if you just simply follow their install directions. You're looking for about a 1/4" of belt deflection. Procharger isn't as popular as they are with bolt on kits because they make crappy kits, they make great kits that are relatively easy to install and have a pretty good bang for the buck factor. PLUS, you get a P1SC or D1SC and they have self contained oiling, unlike most of the other supercharger mfg's and I think any turbo. I know pretty much zilch when it comes to a turbo though.

You can take a STOCK L98 engine and make great HP. No need to touch the heads and cam unless you want to. You'll notice a night and day just by bolting it on and dialing in your fuel with their fuel management unit that comes it (FMU increases fuel pressure thus delivering the additional fuel needed on stock injectors).

 

mmm, pretty understandable.
I would follow the directions they give me, I wouldn't try anything they didn't say or recommend me to do.

I might change the crankshaft and pistons over to forged instead and maybe change the cam, but I'm not sure exactly how much of a lift I can go for with the heads I got on now. so I think it would probably be best not to touch the heads or cam until I decide I want to change both of them of the same time.

I did read that they said my recommend psi for my engine since it has the comp ratio of 91 was from 8 to 14 psi.

Would it still be safe to get the D1SC? I just kinda figure if I was gonna get a pro charger, I would want it worth getting and don't have to change my mind and later decided to go for something bigger.

Would the pressure from the belt to the crank would really snap the snout of the crankshaft? I would think they would have a belt tensioner to keep the belt tight. (Im not sure if that made any sense to anyone, but I'm not sure how else to explain it.) I didnt see any pictures of it having a belt tensioner anywhere.

 

Did you look at the setup that I am doing for my Buick? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...er-mockup.html
That is with a D-1. It is modeled off of an LT1 4th gen kit. I am using the tensionor off of the LT1 kit and have to make the brackets for the Buick.

I like the D-1 because it uses circulating oil. Adds a little plumbing but I have a total of 10 qts (can you say $90 oil change ) in my system so it can handle it.

 

I have a D1SC (Self Contained Oil)....

Just to get a concensus here, as long as oil is being changed on regular intervals, wouldn't the SC unit be prefered (which just lubricates the SuperCharger) as oppsed to running oil that is getting contaminated / heated / filtered and run through the system again?

Raf

 

i like the self contained just the for the fact is that if ever you blew up one piece you wouldn't blow up the other one with metal travelin thru the oil thats why i liked and WILL be using a d1sc when i put my motor in ADAM thanks for the advetisin too lol

 

I would prefer that I have oil that is filtered with a bigger reservoir to contain contaminants. In my setup I have a 7 qt oil pan with 2.5 qt accumulator and run Amsoil 20-50. Just not that worried about one part blowing up and contaminating the other. Then again just my 2 shares of Lehman Brothers so you know what that's worth.

I do understand the convenience of not having to do the extra plumbing. On the other hand have you ever smelled used supercharger oil? I would rather have doggy doo on my shoes than that stuff

 

I love my F1 self contained unit.

 

mmm Dumb question, but does the carb have to be a blow thro carb?

 

According to Procharger if you have a Holley HP no. According to my carb builder yes the carb has to be modified. I have a custom 950 HP and will probably not have anything done to it at first. I only plane on 5# of boost this year. Next year I will have the carb worked on as I plan on going to 10# We will see what happens with the tune. If the AFR's do what they should that's great. For me it is more important to get the fuel system set up for boost than worry about the carb.

 

just an FYI...if you aren't running a self-contained unit and your supercharger head unit fails, you will be building a new engine. Period. Anything that comes apart in that head unit is immediately dumped into your oil pan and destroys everything. It took out my crank, main/rod/cam bearings, and ruined the rockers/lifters in about 30 seconds. This is the one reason I will never, under any circumstances, put a blower back on my car that is not self-contained.