When are you planning on starting your turbo build....?

 

yeah crosslaces were my second choice.

i picked up the set of rims on ebay brand new for 450 shipped i think it was

15x7 for the fronts and 15x8 on the rears

going with 225/50/15 fronts and 255/50/15 rears

 

crosslace rims are awesome on GTA's but those american racing ones look great too

 

By next yr since I have to save up to buy a welder to do my own work then have to save up to buy expensive headers for the turbo as well I know ima need atleast $2000 from what I've read.

 

Just buy flanges and pipes...with that welder you should beable to make something...even if you dont finish weld it, tack it up together and have someone finish it like I did.

 

i can build u the headers

 

That would be great same one like yours or similar ones?

 

identical to what im running now if ur interested let me price up some materials and ill get u a price

edit the only difference is i will use 2 1/4 or 2 inch logs instead of 2.5, this is just for added downpipe clearance 2 or 2 1/4 wont hurt power potential at all

 

Down pipes connected yet Dave...?

Give us some updates....

 

my only updates is i have to much fuel pump for my 3/8's return line.
im getting 70-75 ish psi of fp at idle i could tune around this by setting my injector constant to 82# but once i add in the prsure rise for boost its gets into ta dangerous area.

need to install a -8 an return line before i go any further

 

wow and the injectors arent locking up? must be a monster pump

 

im running low z( peak and hold) precision injectors and twin areomotive 340LPH fuel pumps

 

took the car for its first drive today, lets just say its a lil rowdy for a street car but nothing i cant handle, deff not something id toss the keys to just anyone.
oost comes on instantly and if ur not real careful the car is pointed in every wich direction except were u want it to be .
a 45 mph roll into boost just annihilates the rear tires, cant wait to get some good tires on this thing and get the boost upto 16#'s

 

Slow...

 

thats good to hear... thats how my car was with the 5500 stall and twin 60's. Almost instant panic. Car start to go left every time with boost from a slower roll speed.

 

this cam is killing me i cant get the car to idle decently

 

Are you sure it's the cam? How did she idle w/the carburetor when you had it on?

 

Did you end up swapping for the 224@50 cam? If so I think you shouldn't be having nearly the troubles you are. If it's the 234/244 cam that could be a good bit hairier. The 224 cam has 114 degree LSA on it which should help some. Try bumping your IAC open more, based on the point you're at it looks as if you're trying to get the engine to idle at 400 RPM so it's just trying to stall. Silly question but was the throttle body the right one for the intake? eg you have to be on the pedal a bit or it stalls.) I found out the hard way that if you have a Throttle body with the cold start injector and an intake without the cold start injector it will not have the passage so the engine just stalls. Something to look into undoubtedly.

ED:can you revise this with KPA on the graph too? Just curious.

 

big cams want alot of timing at idle...and likely 900-1000 rpm idle speed.

 

7-900 rpm lope

still have the big cam in it, the tb is the right one and im not currently using an iac, trying to get it to idle around 7-750

this is prolly my issue ill throw a lil more timing at it and see what happenes

 

if you have seen my thread in the DIY section i was having problems with a surging idle. i noticed that the ecm uses timing to control the idle stability and i was decreasing my error values thinking that was the problem. once i increased them the ecm was able to pull/or add more timing and the idle instantly stabilized. when its warm it wants more timing than the stock cam, but at cooler temps it gets as low as 18*. i know you are using MS but it may help, if the MS works similar and especially if you arent using an IAC. HTH

 

currently i have the timing table locked, im only running 16* i was doing this to make gettibng the ve map dialed in a bit before i worked on the ignition map since changing the timming can change the afr's.
im going to bump the timming to 24* and see if that helps the idle

also had my cranking speed set to high, when the rpms would drop the ecm would add in the cranking fuel settings which is bringing the rpms back up


changing the cranking spped to 275 rpms smoothed out the idle a bit but idle speed droped to 550-600 rpms. so in a bit im going to crack open the tb blades a tiny bit to bring the idle speed back up to 750-800 and add in a lil more timing

the motor is going to lope at idle with this cam pretty good, only way i see to totally get rid of it is going to by setting the idle speed to around 1,100

 

I tuned my friends car who ran a 230/236 but on a 113 lsa on a 360 L98 and I ran as much as 28-30 deg to get it stable at 750rpm. Loped hard but was stable.

 

Dave, Draconic makes a very good point. Your plenum does not have the passageway for the IAC drilled out, so double check to see if IAC air from the throttle body is being routed behind the throttle plates like the later versions, or if it is being "blocked" off by the plenum. Here is a pic that you posted in your other thread, do you see the area that he is referring to? Then look at my plenum below that has the IAC passageway drilled out (triangle shape)....

 

my tb is correct for the plenum, but it dosent matter im not using an iac.i never used an iac on my v6 car, i didnt use an iac on pilsburys car, and i didnt use an iac on the 2 other cars ive done a ms install on.

it takes carefull tunning of the idle sections but it works good, i may have issues were i live though, im at about 6,600 ft above sea level were i live, if i drive an hour south i can be as low as 3000ft so thta may screw with my idle without an iac but only one way to find out

 

Careful tuning lol? It's called running a Fast Idle Valve, and it's an alternative to running a stepper motor. It's an electronically controlled vacuum leak, the additional air will bypass the throttle body and go directly into the manifold, w/the MAP sensor adjusting the fuel for the additional air. That's nothing new, but it would have helped had we known you were doing that to begin with...

 

no fast idle valve either

 

What lobes on that cam (what manufacturer)?

When you post things like that you make me wonder if I should go '749 over MS for my setup (305, xfi280-230/236/113, turbo...).

I have a couple 749 and 730's and done the 165 to 749 swap before in another project but wasn't happy how it ran even with a stockish engine. I also have an MS and adapter board built for it, but am not thrilled with it either. Honestly I just want the tuning to happen, I would prefer not to deal with it (I'm an IT/network security guy IRL, kind of want to get away from that when I'm not at work, or at least spend as little time messing with it as possible)

 

My friends car is a MAF 89....280xfi comp hyd roller cam. 350 L98 with replacement pistons, .060" over - 360 cubes. Idled fine at 750 rpm although it liked 850 better but it hopped around happily from 700-850 or so due to lope. I was happy with it.

I cant wait to try my magnum high lift lobes on my 401...246/252 .640/.640 113.5 should be fun. 730 ecm tryin code 59 again

Biggest thing in code 59 is the idle timing and ve table. Its alot higher resolution for idle between 400-1600-ish rpm and lower maps. Enable that and I was able to get my motor to finally idle nicely. The 233/233 cam liked 800 rpm but I gave it 900 since I like fast lope sound and wanted abit more vacuum. Alot more time tweaking may been able to get 700-750 idle, but didnt want to mess with it.

 

i finally got the car to idle properly.i set the distributor without a timing light, the way would would time the magneteos on the dragster. roll the motor over to the desired timing mark and set the trigger.

i must have moved the dizzy when i tightened it down cause instead of what i thought i had for base i ended up with only 5*btdc. after fixing that the cam is now playing nice with my idle

 

How can that be, Megasquirt has two different ways of controlling idle air....



.... unless your just cracking the throttle blades a little bit and trying to tune it that way, but that is like running a chokeless carburetor, and will run horrible until it's warmed up.

 

thats exactly how im doing it works pretty damn good actully even when the car is cold

 

Completely removing the IAC bumps usually causes idle tuning problems. No Bernoulli effect.
Not EPA friendly, but you can tame the idle using timing and fuel somewhat if you go the no IAC route. It depends on elevation and temperature swing maximums. I wouldn't try that with 749 ECM $58 code though. It has an undesirable fuel control algorithm to begin with.

 

Any additional idle vids yet bro...?

 

not yet ill have some driving videos soon though i hope, if not ill have some when the car comes out of the body shop. been to busy doing the body work to get the car ready for paint on the first, still need to pick up some bondo ive got 2-3 places on the car that need it.

u still have that heate rbox setup imk going ot need it here soon temp is droping into the low 30's here in the next few days


if so pm me a price shipped to 84713

 

I was holding it for you. What else do you need, do you still need a TPI waterneck housing too? Lemme know what you need this way I can ship it all together....

 

i got a water neck already but hell ill take that as well the motor in the silverado is tpi as well so it wouldnt hurt to have a spare one laying around

 

Lemme know what other stuff you may need bro, whether engine or interior pieces, as I have a lot of stuff lying around in the garage taking up space. Could put everything in one box...

 

thats all i need, id say one of those b&m shifters to but im not sure how much extra money ill have and i need that heater box asap

 

K, it's boxed up and ready to go. Gonna hit up the UPS store later tonight to see what the shipping will be. Dave, send me your cell phone number and I'll call you later. By the way, I almost freaking forgot that I had straight water in the damn engine and tonight is going to hit below the freezing mark, thank gawd you reminded me with all of this talk about weather....

 

my cell is off right now just drop me a pm with the cost i get paid tuesday so that when ill send the money for ya

and a slight body work update

since i never did update after i started the hood

these were taken at about 20 hours of work into the hood




i hqave a lil problem neibor called the cops on me for spraying so i need to figure ourt how to prime everything else or just have the body shop do it

 

The hell with the blisters, the louvers look very good, I'd stick with them. What did you use to apply the primer, a spray gun or is it from a rattle can? Put up some more idle video's...

 

regular spray gun, except for the one light spot u see on the left side , i had to goto rattle can paint after the cops told me i couldnt be spraying the paint out in the open air

 

Man glad I don't live in an apartment. That sucks. There's a thread about neighbors on the HAMB you should definitely look at to make him mind his own business.

 

car failed inspection today , for fuel lines to close to the header and a compression fitting on the brake line. need to fix those 2 things then i can register the car

 

they only look good cause i spent 3 hours sanding and preping them for paint, they were in horrible condition previously. though i am thinking about getting a rs flat hood for the car to add to the sleeper look

 

car goes for reinspection tommorow

 

just for u rob lol

http://www.streetfire.net/video/twin...pe_2332574.htm

 

Honestly sounds like it's in the tune somewhere. How did the re-inspection go...?

 

cars good to go, i also got the idle a lil smoother the map sensor fluctuates to much at ilde so the ole fuel filter in the signal line trick worked