DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

get a move on!

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

aww so it wont be serpentine belt anymore?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I'd have to clock the flange a little and move it back some to have the turbo facing slightly towards the coolant reservoir to be able to keep the serpentine system. Let me see what I can do, your giving me more work now lol...

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

LOL that's what thirdgenners do best. It is because i would really wanna see this build since tpi + turbo = BAD *** haha

kmcn47

dont mean to sound like a dick, but i've been reading some similar threads to this by a certain street lethal and uhh......... you gonna finish this one? cuz i'd love to see a finished product

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yes, it's going to get done lol, the other Trans Am project from the last thread that was going was sold awhile back I have another turbo toy that I have been fiddling around with on another website and I am going back and forth between builds, but the GTA should be ready in time for when the racing season starts. The track here opens up beginning of April, should already be kicked into high gear by then...

kmcn47

to quote Wayne Campbell "excellent"

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Harbor Freight just opened up near me, and I figured I'd go in and check it out today. I had a flux core welder from them awhile back that did very well for what it was, and the salesperson today talked me into the new improved version of that same model. It was on sale too, so I figured I'd nab it for the hell of it. Should come in very handy when I do the down pipe and exhaust out in the driveway. Weather is finally getting warmer too, so I'm gonna be picking up where I left off with the GTA soon...

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The flux core machines aren't that bad for the price. The worst part is the cheap transformer that they put in them that causes low output. Did they finally put in a transformer that has more windings (more efficient) on it? Other than that I don't see what would be an improvement on these boxes. Did you get it for 109*.8 = $87?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

First thing I noticed was the different ground clamp and thicker cable, as well as the black color of course. Didn't get a chance to really look into it yet as I just got back from picking up some .035 Lincoln wire from Lowe's, but out of curiosity I ran a quick search for the differences and came across a pretty good review of the newer model uploaded on youtube (see below). I'm actually going to finish my LT1 intake conversion that I had lying around tomorrow, just to see how good of a penetration I can get with it...;

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Just confirmed the improvements that the above review indicated this morning...

* New Copper threaded nozzle
* Improved thicker ground cable,
* New Knurled drive roll/quick change
* No longer hot tip
* AC Welder

It was on sale for $109.00 in the other Harbor Freight stores, the online price though was on sale for $99.97, but the store I went to was still in its' grand opening stage and were running their own reduced price and I got this one for new $90.00 after tax. Not bad, and definitely should come in handy...

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The non-hot-tip (added contactor) and install DC diodes is a major improvement. MIG welding with the old AC boxes is rather strange and I am surprised they even sold any of them.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

flux core machine for aluminum?

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

project89

iTrader: (1)

i have the older model machine and the hot tip sucks, and the drive wheel is plastic
i do find that with .030 wire u need to run the wire speed higher then u should have to, havent tried the .035 wire yet

the only thing i would check on the welder is were the cable meets the ground clamp mine wasnt put on very well and was causing bad ground when i first got it.

and i only wear a glove on my right hand when im welding went to grab the clamp with my left hand and got a nice lil burn since it got so hot

rob napa makes a wire thats of pretty good quality its 17-22 bucks a 2lb roll, its what ive been using in mine

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Oh how I wish, but using the flux core welder with aluminum wire would be like trying to push a linked chain up a hill with the long wire feed. I have a spool gun for welding aluminum that I can hook up to the unit that uses shielding gas, I just doubt the 90amp unit will be enough to penetrate the thickness of the intake manifold, but it's going to be fun trying...

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with an LT1 intake and 90 amps. A Hobart 140 was just barely enough to weld on an intake with decent penetration. My guess is that 90 amps will look like a pile of bird crap unless you give it a good heating first. As in a lot of heat first.

Don't forget to add alum angle pieces to the intake if using GM heads......or you will pump exhaust gases in the engine at the hear EGR port. Couple that with turbo exh back pressure you will blow all the gaskets right out of it upon first boost.
Some people don't understand or blow off the problem and just push exhaust into the engine with the 1/4" long slot that is wide open.

project89

iTrader: (1)

u would need around 150-165 amps to weld that intake with a spoolgun 180-190 amps would be ideal though

some of that durabond,durafix or alumaweld rod watever the hells its called would work out better for u rob, u would just have to pick up a mapp gas torch

im actually going to redo all my aluminum coldside pipes with it since the only way i can weld aluminum atm is with a stick welder and stick weldeding aluminum sucks

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an interesting project

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

This is great. I want to know when this is done so i can come watch. im practically next door lol

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Yes, stick welding aluminum does suck. I tried it once. Never again if I have any say about it.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Come on Rob lets roll, and get that TA moving....

kmcn47

cant wait for the FINISHED product i'm gonna hold you to that

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Sorry guys, work has picked up again and I have been passing out lately when I get home. I already cut the crossover, just need to line it up with the turbo header when I am finished with it. The drivers side uses a ball flange, and I want to weld the same type of flange on the passenger side as well leading to the turbo header. I didn't finish the turbo header yet because I found some 409ss 90 degree tubes w/14ga that I am waiting on, as I didn't want to bother with the 16ga tubes that I have. Only welded one primary on the number two cylinder so far, and I had to use a lot of weld because the area that I cut was larger than the piece being welded on (too much gap), so I had to fill the area in. It's on really good though, but this pic is obviously before I smooth the weld out, so forgive how it looks. Once smoothed, it'll look perfect...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Crossover is pretty much done, just need to finish welding the flange on the left hand side (just tacked it for now), as well as the center where they meet. Will look incredible once it's coated, don't worry. Can't do the welding in the center of the crossover yet, as I need my 90 degree bend first that I will be using for the turbo log because I have to line it up and weld a ball flange onto it that will meet the crossover. So basically the setup has 1 5/8" primaries, the driver side header flange is 2 1/4" leading into a 2 1/4" crossover, but the crossover leads to the passenger flange which is 2 1/2" that will then lead into a 3" 90 degree bend (turbo log), into a T4 turbo flange, with the turbo having .96 a/r on the turbine...

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

cant wait to see your turbo header build...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Looking good
That weldings fine, didnt you see my welding on my set up Good job though Rob!! Thats a big turbo your aiming to put on there.
One day Ill figure out how to make those on mine, I hate my loss of ground clearence already, scares me to go to fast on a county road....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not happy w/those welds at all bro. This isn't an excuse, but I am relegated to a handheld welding mask because my cousin has mine, so those welds are one handed. Can't get the wife to hold the mask for me while I weld, so that is why I am just tacking everything for now. Not sure where I am going to put the wastegate flange just yet though...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Trying to get it done as fast as I can for you guys...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I totally understand, thankfully I had a good experience at the MIG welding, I must have Argon/co2 to weld good. That influx wire...I cant use it as im horrible trying to lay down respectable, let alown good sealed beads.. Just grind it down, get a better helment, and continue. It will only get better.
These are decent welds but Im picky at welds..

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Which welds are you looking at? The welds on the crossover (passenger side) were already there, as I cut a piece of old Y-Pipe from another car to make the crossover. All I did was spot weld it in a few places to hold it in place, didn't weld it up yet. The number two primary though on the header, that is what I am upset with, as that didn't line up correctly at all to begin with so I had to go over and over to get it to cover with one hand. There is about a half an inch of weld on that primary all around alone lol, just need to smooth it down before I weld in the log. Flux core isn't that bad to work with, I'm using it in my mig...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I was looking at the welds on the primarys, the one where there's like 1/2 inch of metal on. LOL You should have seem my oil bung in person that I welded on the oil pan. Man i got like 1/2 inch of metal welded onto that pan that extended like 1" from the bung itself, I was so mad at the weld it looked absolutly HORRIBLE, its just a PITA sometimes.

I can weld with the influx wire, but for some reason Im alot better using the gas, everyone welds different, I just grew up useing gas(mig welders), and crappy buzz box(sick welders) After that turbo build though, i dont wana weld anymore for awhile...

project89

iTrader: (1)

umm rob im not sur ehow good that stainless will weld up with flux core wire.though being 409 stainless it may work

ive tried tacking 304 with a gas mig before and the tacks barley held. i would use the tacks then come back and put a few tacks on with the tig and then grind off the mig tag and retack that spot with the tig

so u might want to get a pice of some junk 409 stainless and test that welder out on it before u buy a bunch of it

project89

iTrader: (1)

oh yeah almost forgot i picked up a s10 non ac heaterbox blower motor and resitor today, u still have the pics of how u tapped the wires into thte f-body wires

the s10 box has 3 wires green red and yellow i belive ill go dig it out in a lil while and take pics

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

It'll hold fine, but the biggest concern of course is the rusting issue on the welds if they are not treated. I'm getting everything coated when all is said and done though anyway. I only bought two pieces of tubing for this setup, two 90 degree bends which will complete the turbo log, that's it, everything else was fabbed up using pieces I already had, so although it will work well, it was extremely cheap to put together...

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is what im working with on my heater box is it the same as the one we got for ur camaro rob?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

There are four wires from the ac/heater control unit harness that get connected to the setup, three lead to the resistor on the delete box (blue, yellow and tan from the heater control unit harness), and the other one (orange from the same harness) leads directly to the relay. You will also see three other wires in that same harness coming from the heater control unit along with them (two green, and one black), just tape them off they don't get used as they're for the a/c. Now, normally the stock resistor will have two purple wires coming from the same resistor terminal, but in your case they are orange. Only one of them is used, the one leading to the relay, so tape the other one off or just remove it like I did. From the resistor, you will have one thick purple wire (thick orange in your case), as well as the orange wire coming from the heater control unit, these wires lead to the relay (this is your fourth speed for the blower motor). Now, there are also two other separate wires coming from the fuse box harness, one black and one red, and these wires go straight to the relay. From the relay, you then have two wires coming from the relay with connector, connecting to the blower motor itself...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Remove the resistor that came with the S10 box, and reuse your stock one from the AC setup if you still have it, it will screw right into the delete box. If you need to modify it a little to make it fit, do it, as it will give you your four speeds for the blower motor. In fact, reuse the blower motor from your orginal setup too if you still have it, just put the squirrel cage from the S10 blower onto your stock blower motor so it will seat properly against the firewall...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Crossover was lined up, and welded. Again, excuse the weld because it was done just one handed again. You won't even see the weld once I grind it down which is why I don't even mind showing it. I removed that hideous flange on the passenger side, as that came stock with the L69 y-pipe, and will be replacing it with the same exact ball type flange on the drivers side. Just need to remember to slide the clamps onto the crossover before I weld the ball on though lol...

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

a welding mask it $22 at homedept, lowes, etc... why dont you buy one so you dont have to spend all that time grinding down those welds, then rewelding the holes you'll no doubt have from grinding the welds down (judging by looking at the weld, you gonna have a bunch of them). Then you'll have to grind smooth AGAIN...

Flux core is not too bad, you can lay a nice strong bead that looks pretty good if you know what your doing. It's no Tig welding but it's ok for exhaust stuff, jsut make sure you get the slag out of the pre-turbo hotside or BYE BYE turbo

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I hear ya, but he's dropping off the mask today while I'm at work, so both hands will be free to lay down some decent beads the rest of the way. I don't mind the smoothing, as it only takes a few minutes for each area getting done...

Getting rid of the slag inside the exhaust, pre-turbo, is definitely a must. Remember the setup is getting ceramic coated, and it's getting sand blasted inside and out before I ship them out for coating by buddy of mine, but that is later on though...

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I wish you luck that this is the case, you must have a super grinder that works at crazy angles. that or your not grinding them down as far I'm am thinking....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I have access to a lot of industrial equipment and tools. I'm not going to grind them down so that you can't see them anymore, as I want the weld to be strong to support the turbo so I will be maintaining most of the weld. I'm only grinding them down smooth so that they look decent. Don't want them to stick out like a sore thumb...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I once welded with one hand with the other holding the sheild piece....PITA and never turned out right. Invest in a mask

project89

iTrader: (1)

i threw away my stock box and blower motor, since i got tierd of tripping over it
knew i shoulda kept it

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I have one, but my cousin was borrowing it. Should be there tonight when I get home, so I will be able to lay down some decent beads. Going back and forth with the serpentine setup, but I think I'm going to run a v-belt setup instead, but with an alternator relocating kit this time. Gonna have the compressor housing sitting right in front of the passenger valve cover...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I might have a blower motor and resistor in the garage, lemme check when I get home...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I still got mine, and Im pretty sure I have 2 sets of the resistors, let me know if you need one and Ill go look for the other one.

project89

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys

rob if i wire it up as is the fan will only have what 2-3 speeds or will it not just work witht he s10 resitor and the f-body fan control

project89

iTrader: (1)

short or long waterpump rob ? ifound steel relocation brackets online for 25 bucks moves the alt down midway on the passengerside