Ok because if it does ill buy some and just store them till i have money to complete the kit lol

 

haters make the world go round, cant remember the guy who said that, oh yeah it was jesus i think

 

Personally I don't care if he holds it together with lollipops, sunshine and rainbows so long as he gets it running right and takes it to the dyno/track. No one likes a tease.

 

... I've been called many things, but never a tease lol.

This build is definitely getting done, and then I am finished with third gens...

 

noooooooooooo, there fun to play with right? sure everyone else knows everything better then you alot but hey when it comes down to it, its your car. dont leave, we'd be losing a great member with alot of knowledge

 

I am very confident that this project will see a high nine second pass, or in the very least a nine second trap speed if the drivetrain can't handle that hard of a launch. I'll definitely still be hanging around the website though when all is said and done, as I intend on racing everything I come across and throwing up the video's, whether highway or track. Sad part is Raceway Park cancelled Friday nights, which really sucks because that was my favorite night for racing. I'll keep the GTA to mess around with and stuff, but no more 3rd gen projects for me in the future though, that is for sure lol...

 

ahhh, also my statement about you being wrong was sarcasm just so ya know

 

There was a meet at lowes on rt18 the other night. Alot of fast cars showed up. One trash talker was a miata with an LS1 pushing around 450 to the wheel. Running high 10's. I think you should hurray up so you can start laying the smack down with a measely 305

 

You wanna hear something funny, least year, just before the season ended, about thirty of us were hanging out at e-town on a Friday night, and a bunch of guys towed in an MR2 and were looking for a run. They went up and down the lanes in the back, asking for a $100 dollar run. They asked my buddy with a stock looking t-type if he wanted to run, and my buddy was like "I only have a pushrod V6, just here to have some fun". The guys were like, we'll spot you a few cars, we just wanna run. These guys must have been smoking something, big time, because not only did they not ask to see what was under the hood, they didn't even notice the cage through the tint lol. My buddy got spotted two car lengths, and even the announcer was like "this MR2 is gonna get creamed lol". Quick MR2 though, ran a low ten second pass, but the race was over before it even began, the Buick runs mid nines. Twas white castle time soon after...

 

haha fail for them

 

Just some more pics to keep the build in chronological order. Next set of pics will have the primaries welded into the "log", as well as the 1/2" T4 turbo flange. Still have no idea where I'm going to place the wastegate flange though, but I am more than likely leading to just underneath the downpipe on the top of the two center primaries on the log for easy access. Again, please ignore the welds until the conclusion of the build...

 

I saw you were debating a bit on the V-belt vs. Serpentine setup (seems you've definitely settled on serp?). What caught my attention was when you mentioned having to make adjustments (w/ v-belt) for the water pump.

I know you want to do a budget-build, but an electric water pump might be worth the investment. I've had one for years, absolutely love it.

 

More modification needed, the crossover to turbo header flange is just hitting the k-member, and rather than notch the member I'm going to cut off the flange and lower it closer to the bottom of the oil pan. No biggie, just a pita...

Everything is honestly still up in the air at the moment, as I didn't test fit the entire system on the engine just yet, and if the hood doesn't close I'll be forced to modify the setup to accomodate the compressor housing and slap on the v-belt system again. An electric water pump would be sweet, but I really don't want to steal any needed voltage away from the injectors when boost kicks in. Would have to get a much better alternator if I go that route...

 

Understandable. The electric water pump I have is one made by CSR, pulls less than 6 amps. Moves 35-37 GPM. Just in case your system could hold up to a constant 6 amp draw without any issues.

 

rob u ned to turn the amperage up on that welder

 

I know it looks that way, but the penetration is good though. Trust me, when I first started on the header awhile back I took a hammer to it and the welds wouldn't budge. The reason why it looks like there is no penetration is because I'm going weld over weld, which I grind down anyway in the end. Dave, do you have that link to the alternator relocation kit for the v-belt setup?

 

here ya go rob

they have mounts for driveer and pass side

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/Catalog.htm

im ordering the mid mount from this page since i have along waterpump
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S..._Long_Pump.htm
and also the support bracket since my cyl head dosent have a accesory bolt hole

 

I am a supporter of a little guy wanted to build a fast car and cheer them on from the cheap seats.

Yeah there is always a but.We have owned and raced 9.90 cars for yrs and it really isn't a cheap form of racing or not that easy.Well really I am talking about a car that runs the number round after round.I am always miffed why people pick a goal of a "9" second car.Why not 8 or 7 or 10 seconds??.If that achievement of 9 seconds is all that.................hummm,maybe I should think of myself as a "Hero in my own mind".

 

Thanks bro, your the man. I'm not liking the drivers side version, way too high, so I might go with their mid area one for the passenger side. If it still gives me a problem with the turbo compressor housing then I'm just going to take the stock brackets that I have, and make my own for the drivers side by reversing them...

 

i can answer that since im building a car that could run 8's if pushed hard enough.

when it comes to a street car it just ways to costly once u get into the single digits, going from a 9 to a 8second car just costs a hell of a lot more,not to mention all the addes saftey equip.not to mention it wouldnt make a really fun street car at that point

rob yeah the ds mount wont work unless u ditch the power steering. the midmount bracket should pu tthe alt low anough to clear the compressor housings i know it will clear on mine but, but mine also clears witht he alt in the factory location.

i didnt look at the brackets they have for the short water pump but i think they have all the same mounts for either style pump

 

how much longer will it be before its running 8's? or 9's? or 10's?

 

need to get a new transmission and rear before i start running the car, right now with only some street time ive already managed to blow up a built 700
saving up the money to buy a 4l80 /w transbrake and a dana 60 rear
overdrive is a must for me i refuse to give it up

shouldnt be to much longer though
only downside is both tracks close to me are both just under 300 miles away so i wont get to run the car a whole lot
i so miss living 5 miles away from a nice racetrack (e-town)

 

300 miles to the nearest track???

Wow, you gotta come to ohio, there is 3 within 1 hr of where I live

 

They killed Friday nights Dave, we're down to just Wednesday might, Saturday and Sunday. Only a matter of time before Wednesday gets axed as well...

 

about 275 miles to rmr in salt lake city
about 260 miles to vegas speedway
and about 315 miles to the boneville salt flats

holy crap rob that sucks fridays used to be the best night to go

go get some runs in at e-town , leave at 10 pm and then be up in toms river for some street racing my 11/11:30

 

The turbo header now clears the K-member, I'm taking off from work tomorrow and getting it all wrapped up because I was in Atlantic City all weekend and I didn't get a chance to do anything whatsoever. Lots of welding under the turbo flange still needs to be done, the inner primaries of course, turbo flange, wastegate flange, as well as the redoing of all of the welds the right way once they're all ground down and smooth. I measured the area underneath the heater delete box, and I will be able to fit a five inch downpipe through there. Spark plugs and wires have plenty of room, and the header bolts are extremely easy to get to...

 

For ur belt system why not use a serpentine setup like I did? It seems like ur turbo is going to be somewhat close to where mine is I have an electric water pump serpentine with tensioner and alternator/ps on driver side I could easily add a mechanical pump by just getting a longer belt

 

What I'm going to try doing is remove the a/c unit, and run a shorter belt. I'm going to keep the smog pump, gut it of course, and fabricate a larger pulley for it this way I can retain the factory tensioner otherwise it won't grab, so instead of the belt going around the smog pump, to the a/c, then to the alternator, it will go around the smog pump and straight to the alternator. The area where the a/c will now be used for the turbo compressor, just need to trim the bracket a little to make it look pretty. This is the stock 305 that everything is going on...

 

that sounds kind of like what i did but i removed the smog pump and ac compressor and still reused the tensioner, ill upload a picture in a few hrs when i get to working on my car

 

wire nuts. lol

 

Had a v-belt setup on this engine awhile back, had to extend the wires because the alternator was on the other side at one point. Too lazy to solder them back the right way now. I'll get to it though...

 

Definitely, if you could post one up that would greatly be appreciated...

 

This is how I have mine it works flawlessly and very simple and cheap I have also used this same setup with a mechanical pump and never had a single problem

 

Here's another

 

That came out great! In my case, I would have to run a slightly longer belt than yours if I do that to wrap around the mechanical water pump, though. I just took a ride over to Napa and picked up a power steering pump pulley for fifteen bucks. Gonna try to adapt it to the gutted smog pump first, and if that doesn't work I will try joining it to the smog pump pulley by welding them together. The smog pump pulley is a little under three inches from the center to the outer diameter, and the power steering pump pulley is a little over three and a half inches from the center to the outer diameter, just enough to be able to use the tensioner. From there, it is just a matter of getting the right belt size, which will be a breeze. If all else fails, I'll be going the route that you went. Came out great...

 

That pulley from Napa was a waste of money (not even gonna bother bringing it back lol), noboostnogo's idea is perfect. Just tried wrapping it around the way he has it, but with the water pump pulley still in tact, works great. The only bad part is when it comes to taking it off, as once the tensioner is set the belt is obviously locked in place, but when you lift the tensioner you can only go mid extension to get the belt off... as any further than mid extension and the belt gets tight all over again. Other than that, perfecto. Just need a belt now. Thanks noboostnogo.

 

Got the rope all lined up (thanks again noboostnogo), now I gotta go have one of the rep's over at Advanced Auto match it up for me. Just an FYI for you guys following along, if you delete your air pump it must be deleted in your prom if your still running the stock ECM. To test that theory, disconnect the two electrical connections to the air pump solenoid and monitor your air fuel ratio, as your idle RPM will be surging within minutes...

 

Thought maybe you guys might wanna get acquainted with her first before I started tearing into it (click the pic). Interior is actually black leather, and I have the original seats in my basement along with the original wrap around spoiler because they are in great condition. Engine is essentially stock except for 24-lb LT1 injectors and a chip that I burned awhile back. Can't wait to get this turbo on as my buddy Paul showed up yesterday telling me that he's got his Grand National trapping close to 135-mph, and I wanna line them up very very soon, highway, track, it don't matter, just bring it...

 

i took the v belt of my air pump will that cause me problems? cuz it seems fine so far

 

No, your computer controlled carburetor isn't at the mercy of the ECM like the fuel injection setups. With my old LG4's, I disconnected the ECM entirely, breaking the loop completely, and ran it like that. Timing was of course locked, but there was still no surge though. With this Tuned Port setup though, when disconnecting the air pump solenoids the ECM defaults. Might throw up a video showing this happen, a before and after...

 

i see, thanks and yeah a vid would be interesting

 

Was hesitating yesterday to throw up a video, but I threw the new belt on and started pulling everything off to make room for the turbo. The surge is most prevalent when you pull the smog pump hoses and cap off the manifolds. There is so much room without the a/c head unit and air pump, as I now have a much better area to put the wastegate. The turbo is pretty tall, and I need all the room that I can spare to close the hood. Although the compressor housing comes out after the end of the valve cover... the turbine housing is still next to it. The chrome valve covers for the 416 heads that I ported are 2 1/2" tall, whereas the stock centerbolt valve covers are a tad under 2", and that 1/2" will make a tremendous difference. Long story short, I might take a day off to port out the stock 081 heads and use them instead.

 

Street, have you ever tried island dragway in NJ? What about atco? E-town went to poo way to long ago, i never go there. <well except to support friends, 1 time in 10 years, and it was a **** show as usual>

 

Atco was alright. Only thing I didn't like was that you can't go around the water box. Easy fix though, put slicks on . I noticed there was more cars built for the strip and very little breaking down compared to e-town and there 18 second hondas blowing oil all over the place.

Where's island dragway?

 

It's true about e-town, it changed tremendously in just the last six years. Last Wednesday was the same thing, someone oiled down the track and we were sitting there for an hour and a half waiting for them to clean it up. I love racing at Atco Raceway, I just can't stand the commute there. There is this one very long stretch of road heading there that demands like 40-mph, and they enforce it big time because the cops just sit there fishing, and it takes freaking forever lol. I haven't been to Island Dragway in a very long time, last time I was there it was essentially anything goes (guys were running in the 8's with just a rollbar, and the guys running in the 9's didn't even have a rollbar), I remember the track being very muddy too. Dave (project89), you raced at Island Dragway with your turbo V6 a lot, no...?

 

Just wanted to say builds looking good Rob!

 

Hey when I had my mechanical pump I went straight to the water pump from the crank that way it wrapped the belt nicely around the crank pulley then to the tensioner and then from there to the alt and ps. I think that's how tip cars have it i dont know if the way u have it would reverse the flow or cause flow problems due to the fins in the water pump??

 

Thanks Mark. I posted in your thread about a fuel pump issue I was having because I replaced three of them in just under a year, and I now realize that I am fighting a vapor lock problem. Drove the car back and forth to Queens yesterday, temperature outside was about 75-degrees, coolant temps in the engine were no more than 190-degrees w/both fans running, in heavy (stand still at times) traffic the new fuel pump was screaming like a banshee, with essentially no power. Had to baby it over to the shoulder for a few minutes, wait for it to cool off a little, then get her going again. She was fine away from the traffic...

Forgot to post a picture of the new belt. Gotta be very careful when cutting the passenger side bracket for the belt, as you don't want to cut too much off as the tensioner needs to be reinforced as much as possible. Still contemplating just how much I will be cutting, but should have that part done today...

 

Works perfectly, these water pumps are reverse flowing (counter clockwise)...

 

Ahh ok I'm glad that setup worked out for you