Think I might be taking some advice from the old school on this build, as my pops recommended a grind on the cam that he ran on the street back in the day with his old 327 Corvette, but more of an updated version of it. This engine isn't going roller because it didn't come roller, plus it honestly defeats the purpose for me to invest in linked roller lifters. The Comp Cams roller rockers I am running will help add a little more lift, though...

228/230 395"/401" @ 110...

 

Id go with as much lift as you could comfortably get on this build

 

I posted his specs and forgot to include mine underneath his, here is what I am looking at...;

228/228 480"/480" @ 110

 

meh
234/234 .510/.510 on 112

 

... on a 305 w/1.84" valves lol? Tuned way too many 305's to know that 228 is the limit if you want a bearable idle. Also, you do realize that I am not planning on running nine seconds constantly lol, just looking to touch them once, then the boost is being brought back down to a more feasible and streetable setting. Not to mention, there is really no need for too big of a camshaft when LC2's are running nines with a lot less cam and a lot less cubes.

 

More cam relies less on boost tho i like big cams

 

True, but it essentially depends on how much air is being forced at that boost pressure. Right now I am looking at a Bullseye Batmowheel turbo, and even at a mere 20-psi of boost pressure, the T72 Bullseye will flow more than a Garrett T88. This, in conjunction with the PTC stall speed I am looking at should do the trick... provided the drivetrain can handle it.

 

that cam would be just fine on a 305, turn it an extra 4-600 rpms

it is only mariginally bigger then what u were thinking of anyway and the 2 extra * of lsa would make it idle and drive the same as the smaller cam

if u stuck 1.6 rockers on the cam ur thinking of u would have around 233/233

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but words are honestly meaningless to me without video and dyno numbers. Unfortunately it would have to be proven to me to see how it would run on the 305. I have tuned 224/224 cams on 305's with decent results, and 228/228 is stretching it as far as I'm concerned. Let's not forget that "streetable" means two entirely different things to two different people...

 

do i have to go buy a 305 car next lol

meh streetable = car can sit in stop and go traffic and not over heat, and u can hear the radio while cruising lmao

 

Had a solid flat tappet in one of my 305 builds, 230/240 on a 114, it wasn't too bad. I have a 230/230 on a 110 in it right now and it idles and drives fine.

 

Go for it. By the way, I thought you already had one in that Firebird of yours...

Streetable = bearably low idle without stalling...

 

Where is your static compression...?

 

i sold that pile of dung a long time ago for 600 bucks , thats why i picked up the other cars

no 305's for me lmao

 

That's what I keep telling the LS guys, it's now a process of gradually losing cubes, why settle on an LS1, 350 or 305 when there are 2.8's out there to build...

 

I dunno about the 228@.050 cam, I'm more inclined to think split pattern as the heads are probably weaker on the exhaust. The intake's gonna choke it some so it could work out a split cam is more optimal than I give it credit for. Then again the turbos aren't gonna be choosy either really. I'd be sure to size to a decent turbine housing (.96) if I was going to do it. The 110 LSA on a 228 degree cam is probably still a tamer cam than a 112 LSA 234 degree cam. It should have a broader power band as well.

That being said ultimately it's your motor and if she runs 9s well then mission accomplished. Personally I think I'd rather have more intake than more cam, as ported or not I'd still think the TPI is gonna suck some power.

 

Scr is 10.2:1 on that motor

 

If you build them the V8 ppl will come

 

what he said

 

Guessing he matched the cam to take advantage of how the heads may like.

I can appreciate "working with what ya got just to see what you wind up with" but better than any aftermarket head? Im curious.

Did the flow #s get taken down didnt see them posted.
not on here a lot

 

Not that there are a ton of 305 heads to compete against either though honestly. I mean, the World S/R 305 heads and then I think Trick Flow might make a set. I'd do it for the chamber design and weight reduction in a way. I guess if you were really nuts you might be able to get some 54CC SB2 heads and down size the valves. That'd be sort of hillarity in a way but I'm sure crazier has been done.

I've said it once and I'll say it again, it's not like you need a ton of flow to feed a 305 from a bench racing stand point especially not a boosted one.

 

Now now, don't get sore cuz my anemic engine has 100 more cubes than yours...

I clicked the link and give it a listen, I hear in the middle...;

"People will come Ray"...

Followed by...

"Your broke Ray"...

... and I just started cracking up lmao!

 

Ahh you know im just messing arround Rob. And BTW that vid is funny as he$$

 

Yeah, I overdid it with the heads. Opened them up way more than they really needed to be, as essentially they just needed to be good enough, nothing too substantial, but I just couldn't get myself to stop porting. I have rough pics from the work that I did to them before getting filled in the middle of the process of porting them, but I was going to wait to have them all polished up before throwing them up. I will have the #'s put up as well later on. Here is a picture after about 20 to 30 minutes of porting the bowls...

Its hard to see the "ramp" in the before pic on the left, but at mid point on the right most of the ramp was essentially removed. Current pictures which I will throw up after I polish them will show how the ramp is now gone altogether, and the valve area where unshrouded looks perfect, smooth and equal on both sides. Plenty of valve guide left down on the bottom, but either way I wasn't worried about removing them, as I am not planning over one hundred thousand miles with these heads. Again, this was only after 20-30 minutes on the chamber, and the shape of everything looks rough in the pic because it is raw, as this was during the removal process, not the shaping and smoothing process, and I am throwing these up for the chronicle...

 

Just thinking out loud.

On the big blocks GM put a notch in the top side of the bore to help with shrouding and their valve placement. I dont see why this couldnt be done with the 305 too esp if someone wanted a larger valve.

It was explained to me you can unshroud the chambers all you want and make heads flow to timbucktu but if the air gets to where its ramming intot eh side of the cyl youre losing power. Id guess with boost might be enhanced.
Know some cicle track guys that like to cheat do this

May post about it somewhere else and throw up a link.

 

Yeah, it's a little different with a boosted application. My biggest concern with factory heads is not so much maximizing the cfm, rather smoothing everything down to eliminate hot spots, targeting the outer diameter of the valve seats, directing the mixture in the direction that I want it to go during quench, and then making sure that each chamber is as close to each other as possible. It's a lot of work, but it does pay some huge dividends in the end, and is an extremely cheap alternative to aftermarket heads...

 

Waiting And Watching...

Im very exciting to see the finished product..

 

subscribed

 

I wonder how the head flow effects the adiabatic efficiency.

I'm thinking that the better flowing head will keep the compressor from working as hard, generate less heat, allow for more timing and a leaner (more power) AFR..

-- Joe

 

i would agree. its still all about getting air into and out of the cylinders. if you can move the same amount of air at a lower pressure, there is benefits to be had. more power with less turbo/boost pressure....

 

I would love to see the maps showing the T72 wheel out flows the T88 wheel. Got maps?

 

Junk that was a typo, and I'm suprised your the only one that caught that. I meant T76, not T88. The Bullseye 72mm will flow more than the Garrett T76 (which is what I was initially going to run), as well as the Bullseye 83mm flowing more than the Garrett T88. Can get the maps if you still need to see them...

 

Thanks guys...

That is exactly what I am focused on, as many members don't realize that there is a tremendous difference between getting a boost pressure reading before the intake valve, and after the intake valve. Boost pressure drops when we open up the intake tract, and although it drops, the amount of air will increase at that same boost pressure with substantially less heat. This is why boost pressure is meaningless in a way, but then again why it really isn't meaningless when you know how to use it in your favor in conjunction with exhaust backpressure...

 

and then all was quiet?

 

 

She's finished, I'm making a few changes with her though in the coming weeks as I am selling the turbo and converter I was using, and will be starting a new thread. Will be very interesting for you guys to see what she runs without the turbo, followed by with the turbo. It's gonna put a few myths about the 305, and Tuned Port Injection in itself immediately to bed. Let this thread die though, will start another one soon...