2.5 inch crossover will help with spool and 3 inch is alil overkill for ur goals

for the ontercooler get an ebay 32x12x4 with 3 inch in and 3 inch outlet
i run that core on my twin turbo iroc and it works great

 

Thank you project89! I will place my order tomorrow then for the hot side piping, 2.5" is what I'll do, this is going to be a fun project! With the intercooler I want bar and plate I believe not fin and tube. Correct me if I am wrong. that cooler fits without much trimming?

 

yes bar and plate is what u want
it depends on were u mount it i have mone infront of the rad behind the crash support i had to trim the bottom of my hood latch suport bracket out


others mount it ahead of the steel crash support and just cut that back to fit it way up in the nose

 

Okay I'll be putting it behind the crash support, more pics to come later tonight!

 

Looks good dude!

I'm curious to see the collector locations on the the cc1's, you have 1.5" more height comparing our headers in the "B" dimension (collector height) on sanderson's site, my collectors are as high as I'd want them to ever be.

 

Well I have tall valve covers so I'm hoping it will help. I don't think the shorter cc2s would clear them. But I could be wrong. Also they didn't make cc2 in 1 3/4 primaries

 

subscribed, beautiful car!

 

Thank you!! And an update for you all. I got the headers and y pipe off tonight. Took about 1.5 hours total. I will have pictures later on my iPhone wont upload them. It went pretty well. Looks like I will have all the room I need to for my crossovers.

 

okay so i got my headers in the mail today! now i header about sailstexas and quadgoat having problems with sanderson, but i on the other hand will give them a thumbs up on my order. It was still expensive because i had them ceramic coat them but it shipped to me within a week and its all the right size that i can tell so far. Now my instructions say to use a black high temp rtv??? what did you to use?

also i am selling the other hooker shorties and y pipe together if anyone is interested 1 5.8 primaries. 3" collector with o2 sensor holes.

here is some shots of the engine bay somewhat finished. got a few loose wiring but thats about it i think.

 

very shiny and the tubes seem huge!

 

thin coat of copper rtv/copperseal on both sides of the gaskets , without it u will prolly blow out the paper/printed gaskets pretty easily

if the flanges are dead flat u can use just the coper seal which is what i do and never had it blow out on me

 

no the flanges are a no gasket design, they told me not to use gaskets. they are raised not dead flat

 

Grate car...

 

Nice build, should be a fun driver.

 

Thanks! Ill have the headers on tonight as long as I can find some copper rtv. Also ordered my intercooler, should be here middle of next week. Sucks having everything shipped from California to ohio it takes so long

 

oh my goodness tonight did not go as planned. to start out with the headers hit the tall valve covers. i believe stock ones will clear but my problem is i dont think my roller rockers will clear stock covers... any advice? i remember trying stock covers a loooong time ago and thinking it didnt clear. i had to cut the flanges on my coated headers for the sensors.. i had plugs there and if i knew they would have hit ida payed them to flip the header flanges. i hate cutting new parts to make them fit. ughh

i got one header bolted up for test fit. everything seems to fit very nicely, i have so much room for the downpipe either in stock location or down before the starter you can see in the picture.

only good thing about tonight is that we got the bumper and crash support off to make working on the car easier and for the intercooler mock up nect week, parts should be here wednesday for that.

project89-- you said miniaml cutting of the hood latch support. were did you cut in this photo to make the intercooler fit and still be able to close the hood and have latch support??

 

more

 

copper rtv works ok, but i'd just get some rem-flex gaskets and never worry about it again

 

basically u remove the 2 steel braces that make an x and u cut the hoodlatch support below the 2 bolts i photoshop u rpicture now and upload it

 

basically u cut and remove from the black line down , then the intercooler will fit up behind whats left . u have to angle the bottom twards the front of the car to leave a gap for air to get to the radiator without having to go threw the intercooler

 

i will dig pics out of my old build thread and post them for u here in a lil bit

 

here ya go


and then the hoodlatch support is still suported by the vracket that bolts form the nose to those 2 bolt holes

of course i cant find the pic i have of it bolted back into place but u should get the idea

u didnt even need to remove the front crash support or bumper coover to install it


edit

here ya go

 

Sailstexas, I will try and find gaskets, I don't like not having gaskets at all. Are those the ones you used? Remflex?

Project89 wow man thank you for those pictures. I can see how it's supported now I forgot that other bracket is there. I'm hoping to get out of work early today and head over to summit racing and pick up some stock height valve covers and see if they clear my roller rockers. What rockers do you have under your blue covers?? Those look like stock height?

 

plain old long slot relacement 1.5 tsamped rockers

just make some l brakects and bolt the intercooler to the upper rad support and to the lower rad support

 

Are those the rockers you want to make 1500 hp with ??

 

no that was my 355 engine was shooting for low 9's

im in the middle of building an afr 245 headed 427 sb

 

yeah I use rem-flex now. The RTV was ok but rem-flex is awesome. Orr use's remflex also and he says he likes them.

http://catalog.remflex.com/category_s/75.htm

 

Okay, I went to summit today and bought stamped steel rockers and short valve covers, just incase it doesn't clear my Harland sharp full rollers. Are you going to run full rollers on the 427? That sounds like a fun build! How fast do you want to go with 1500 hp if the 355 went 9s?!?

 

how much money did you spend with just the body work and paint, if you dont mind me asking?

 

Good news! I went to summit racing and bought the same valve covers I have now but stock height version and they seem to it with my roller rockers! It's so close ill upload pictures later. I turned the motor over by hand with the cover on Nd someone puhing on it because I didn't have bolts and it didn't hit. Granted I have hydraulic lifters and they might now have been pumped up. Ill put the battery back in in a couple days to crank it over without spark and build oil pressure and recheck to see if they hit. I'm so exicted that they fit with out hitting the header too! Cross fingers..

To the price of body work. There wasn't much needed because it was pretty clean to begin with, and my auto shop aligns all the cars from this body shop i took it to i got a good deal. but just for the blue it was 3800 cash. The silver I did myself I probably have 300 in materials for that part. Paper, paint, sealer, cookie disks, etc. man hours to do the silver it took like a straight two weeks from 6pm-11pm everyday with me and my girlfriend

 

Pics added

 

Progress looks good! Didn't Alex and I mention the clearance issues with the sensors in the heads vs. the header flanges? I know Alex did in his post, that's why I had them install my flanges upside-down. I didn't really have "trouble" with Sanderson, it just took a long time to get my headers, but I didn't complain too much because they were doing custom work on mine. I've been using copper RTV to seal my headers, and so far it's been great! Car has fewer exhaust leaks than it ever did with my SLP 1 3/4" shorties! I will admit though, the idea of the "no gasket design" doesn't sit well with me. If I have problems I'll probably get a set of the Remflex gaskets like Alex suggested.

Looks like things are moving right along for you!!

-Paul

 

Yeah you guys did mention the issue with the sensors, but I don't have any sensors in the heads. I only have pipe plugs and I figured it wouldn't have it. Oh well I finished the modifications on the headers. I'm going to order remflex gaskets on Monday when yet hey open.

Yes progress seems to be going smoothly now. Thank you!

 

intercooler and piping has arrived from godspeed project today! looks all fancy beings polished and stuff lol. waiting on my remflex gaskets to continue the process, probably will be here before friday and then get a chance work on it some more.

 

Exhaust parts are in and I should start assembling the hot side Wednesday. I forgot one thing though. I need flex pipes and I don't know which brand I need to get, any one have links to the right stuff?

 

If you're using them pre-turbo like I did, make sure you get the kind with interlocking internals, NOT the wire mesh internals. I used the ones Vibrant sells: http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...1022_1064_1114

I used the wrong ones when I built my hotside. Fortunately a friend of mine caught my mistake and I was able to install the correct ones before I even started the engine. The wire mesh internals will degrade under the high heat pre-turbo and then either cause a massive restriction (best case), or come apart and get eaten by your turbo (worst case) which would not make for a fun time!

-Paul

 

Six or eight inch long?

 

That all depends on your needs. Pretty sure I went with 6" on my setup...

 

so far i have got only the headers on and the a/c condensor and lines installed. i trying to build the crossover and its much harder than i imagined. my dual fans and w/p pulley is totally in the way. i wanted to do it like fstfbdy did his and under the crank but it wont clear my pitman and idler arm travel :// more updates to come when i get a chance to work on it. im to busy fixing oers peoples cars to work on mine

 

Keep the updates coming, looking good so far. Love that you're retaining A/C too.

 

wow those headers are close to the valve covers! can you remove the VC's without taking the headers off?

 

Uhh no I can't. But I'm sending the one back to Sanderson due to one clearing and one touching a hair. The headers arnt identical.

 

So I got alot of work done tonight. Sorry I have worked on it in a while. I got the turbo mocked up with two dinky brackets but I figure those brackets to the compressor housing bolts and the rest of the exhaust should hold it in place well. I got about 70% of the crossover tacked up tonight. Three full welds which I think turned out great for my first night on the welder! Pics up later when I get to a computer

 

Sounds like you're making some good progress! I look forward to seeing more pictures! One observation though - I hope you plan to re-clock the center section of your turbo, because as it sits in the picture you posted it wouldn't drain oil very well :P I assume you know that, but I wanted to point it out anyway!

-Paul

 

heres more pictures!! let me know how my welds look? yes i know about the center section, thanks paul!

 

mooooaarr, this merge pipe should be fun! any tips?

 

Tonight was a long night. Finished the collector and installed a vband. Here is a picture of it done. Ill put more up later my phone only lets me do one. Any advice would be awesome

 

Up close of merge. I do realize I need to put one more flex pipe in.

 

Which type of pipe treatment keeps the heat in better? Ceramic coating or heat wrap?

 

My SLP 1 3/4" shorties were ceramic coated. My turbo setup (aside from the headers) is wrapped with Lava wrap. The wrap keeps the heat in MUCH better than the ceramic coating from what I can tell. The ceramic coating is prettier though. A downside of the wrap is that it has the potential to trap moisture against your pipes and accelerate rust (if you're cheap like me and didn't use stainless :P). This (I believe) is why Sanderson voids the warranty on their headers if you wrap them. My Headers are just painted with VHT high temp paint right now, but I will probably pull them off next winter and send them out to be ceramic coated.

-Paul