Ya seems like all of summits regular braided line is e85 safe. I wish we could get it local. Nadda here . ***it canada! lol

You may only need to swap the injector o-rings. Lots of guys seem to be running the standard Siemens 80lb injectors on e85. Unsure if they are changing the orings or just leaving them. I know e85 is harsh on standard rubber stuff. Same goes for pumps. Racetronix 255's will support E85 but it notes they will have a shorter life span.

Compression should be fine on e85 also. I ran 9.8:1 on pump gas on my 383Lt1. But I was only pushing around 8psi (584whp). Never got that setup dialed in as I was chasing my *** trying to figure out a cooling issue and severe rich issue (like 10.0:1 AFR) (turned out to be a cracked LE2 head). I must say i don't miss tuning with tunercat LOL

Jay

 

Bet that does suck, just noticed your location man :/ I did a little research and I know the e85 will eat rubber. period. just a side effect, heard it was hard on aluminum too. Given this is just a toy and not my DD I don't mind things wearing out fast or breaking. Just wanting to avoid another explosion like my last build...ProForm products are the devil.

 

Most new rubber fuel parts are ethanol resistant since pump gas is now e10 (10% ethanol). Fuel pumps and injectors are really the only thing you need to watch out for

Also, ethanol (e85) is not corrosive to aluminum, it's the same alcohol as what's in beer/wine/liquor. It is often confused with methanol which is corrosive

 

Yup that sounds right to me lol. I have to redo the whole fuel system anyway so the swaping to newer lines and pumps was going to happen either way. Started taking things out of the engine bay today but its hard to get time of late with all the rain we're getting. Between winter coming and my lease coming up in a few months(moving in Dec) its slowing me down more then Id like. Be listing a lot of Gen 1 stuff soon for sale on the cheap, help me pay for a lot of the little stuff I need to get.

 

Don't let the thread die I wanna c this through to the eng

 

lol I was just about to head out to the car and start taking off the 350's heads so see whats going on there, hoping its just a poped head gasket but by the tachs last rpm read out of 6200ish I doubt its just a gasket. Been pricing out all the small bits, bolts, gaskets and new bearings for cam/rods, fuel tiddly bits and what not...that alone is around a grand. *sigh* lol
Seeing as my car was org a TBI, will I have much trouble getting the l99 harness spliced into it? Still need to head down to pick-a-parts and grab one with a ecu while the weather is still good. I know there was a post some where on here covering a LT1 swap I read a while back and figured the l99 would be along the same lines with the wiring.

 

Got the intake on the 350 off, nothings bent or looks bad. Pulled out newish looking lifters(no wear on them at all) and elgin 7.8 push rods that im cleaning up now, part number pr34b can still be seen on the sides. Im guessing when I pull the cam its a mild one, at this point I could slap together another 350 if I wanted too lol.

 

Short answer...nope.https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...rt-finish.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

Pocket already has us covered.

 

Thank ya kindly sir I honestly hate wiring lol

on a side note, i was on youtube today and came across an old account of mine from back in highschool when i just started working on my 82 C10...miss that truck so much

 

I have an fbody alt/PS pump bracket from back in my lt1 days. I think I got an alternator too. If u need one. Let it go cheep.
Lt1 z28 was one of the first cars i ever put a turbo on.
But I went faster w nitrous. Lt1 383 w lt4 top end.Sold it to buy my first ls1 car. Never looked back.
I used oversize injectors and a vortech fmu with a holset h1e On stock tune. It didnt blow the stock lt1. It ran good under boost. It was friends car. He wrecked the car. But it never blew up or popped head gaskets. Lol

 

I was just reading a post over in the local section, do you still offer dyno tuning? Ill need a good shop to help get this running right.

 

Only dyno tune megasquirt or factory PCM ls cars at the time.

 

@Neme-Ok thanks anyway.

UPDATE-Sorry Iv been anyway, been house hunting and haven't had much free time. I went over to my folks house to drop off some ARP main studs saturday afternoon and noticed some of my stuff had been moved around. I had set some junk off to the side 2 weeks back(my dad hauls scrap off once a month so he has some free cash for his monte) and after putting everything back where I had it I noticed a major problem, my scat crank gone while my l99 crank was sitting by the heads
Got the crank long time ago and never used it, sat wraped up all this time and once I lay it out thing gets chunked out. Talked to my father and he thought it was junk and that I was going to use the 3 inch crank. Couldn't really say much given its not my shed and Im not paying to use his space.

Soooo at work today I was talking to my supervisor and he has a 3.48 1pc(crank # 14088526) crank he will trade me for my 600cfm carb and 882 heads, I looked the number up and its a cast nodular iron. Would this be alright given the level Im shooting for if its in good shape? I wont see it till in the morning when he brings it to work.

 

i wish you lived near me. i would sell you some LT1 stuff. i have a ton of engine parts.

 

Not a lot of LTx guys out here, most thirdgens are past south Houston or up north from me. Only 2 local cars around and their rather beat up looking so at least when the cars done(who knows that day) it will be the nicest one around from what Iv seen.
I looked the crank over today and went ahead and swaped him parts, did some research and it Should live aslong as I don't spin it to high. While its on my mind, would it be possible to use a LT1 ECM/hardness given it's going to have to be reprogramed anyway for a different displacement?

 

let me take that a step further, i didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work, and now that I've done it I know it can work:



Now a few of you have seen a bunch of pics of me doing this in other places... and might say that i had to notch the tops of the bores for them or something. Well I did notch them, but not because of something with making the aluminum LT1 heads work, but because I modified the chambers, unshrouded the valves and ended up with a little of the chamber overhanging the bore (most heads do on a 305) + I'm **** retentive so I notched the tops of the bores to match the chamber shape.

It runs fine (drives, well I don't know, it only has about 30 miles on it, mostly because of a few small teething problems and a major power steering problem as you can see in the pic, I'm on my third pump and well, I don't know how to count the steering gears I've messed with).

I wrote this earlier, and just re-read the thread and noticed all the GT talk... Your goal is under 400 hp. the HX35 will do that easy why make it harder on yourself then it needs to be?

OEM's don't run the monster turbos that we put on things because dinky little turbos respond quicker and are more drivable, they build boost everywhere and you just tune for the power where you need it. One of my DD's is a '12 Taurus SHO with the ecoboost (another is a cummins dodge so I'm pretty familiar with those holsets too). The ecoboost a 3.5L with 2 little dinky turbos on it, from the factory it makes almost 400hp and it doesn't feel like a turbo car, it feels like an old school big block (with awd traction). It's sick, and with just a mild tune is a solid 12 second car.

Anyway, my point is that if you can get the airflow you need from a smaller turbo, DO IT. The only thing you have to gain with something bigger is airflow that you won't use. With the smaller turbo you get more dynamic range, you can be in full boost sooner and it will drive more like a bigger engine (though you'll have to be more careful with your tuning not to blow it up below the torque peak)

This is especially the case if you go rear mount, heck, rear mount I'd seriously consider an Hy35 (basically the HX with a smaller hot side used on some automatic cummins tucks), or possibly one of the later HE3xx turbos (smaller hot side, bigger cold side, but again, you don't need bigger, and they're more $$$ for a nice one)

the cam in that 305 is A LOT bigger than anything you've mentioned, and I have it idling almost like a stocker... this is the only video I have of it right now, and this was just a _really_ rough tune in it to get it started for the first time (at least this was the first tune to fire and stay running, it got better from here. It's also a very crappy video, I was just excited that it was running):